Trike make over.

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The rivets that I used to hold the sprocket are starting to twist a bit

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Keyway in axle and punch in hub. Both rear wheel hubs. Slide on and kotterpin 'em
 

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I see flange bearing in the end of the axle tubs, and I think I am seeing pop rivets, I think you need something more substalcial then pop rivets to hold the sprocket, they are soft............Curt
 
Yes, my rivets are not as strong as they could be, but in my defense, I had no idea what I was doing when I built that jack-axle for it. Amazingly, it worked out the first time. I will have to re-do it soon. I am not sure what you mean by "Flange bearing in the ends of the axle tubs". See how primative the hubs are?

BTW Ed, I'm sorry for hoggin' up space on your post, I was not trying to hi-jack you. My apologies.
 
Yes, my rivets are not as strong as they could be, but in my defense, I had no idea what I was doing when I built that jack-axle for it. Amazingly, it worked out the first time. I will have to re-do it soon. I am not sure what you mean by "Flange bearing in the ends of the axle tubs". See how primative the hubs are?

BTW Ed, I'm sorry for hoggin' up space on your post, I was not trying to hi-jack you. My apologies.
No problem whatsoever. I'm not an internet snob.
 
Yes, my rivets are not as strong as they could be, but in my defense, I had no idea what I was doing when I built that jack-axle for it. Amazingly, it worked out the first time. I will have to re-do it soon. I am not sure what you mean by "Flange bearing in the ends of the axle tubs". See how primative the hubs are?

BTW Ed, I'm sorry for hoggin' up space on your post, I was not trying to hi-jack you. My apologies.
Dug up one of the original axels. 3/4" diameter. About 18" long. The hub is so rusted in place I doubt it would need the through bolt anymore.
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Wow, so that's the hub with a short half-axle still in it, and the double flats slide into the rear diff gear that was in the other pix, right? There is no keyway slot in the axle so no need for the punch in the hub to hold it, other than that hole in the flanged side of the hub, so just a bolt or pin thru that hole and then thru the short axle? That is the hub that spokes would be laced into with the hoops for the rear wheel, right? Just being sure that's what I'm looking at. So what I'm realizing here is that every one of these older Trykes might actually be unique from one another, and only similar in really random instances, other than having 3 wheels in common. No wonder it's been so hard to locate any "spare parts" with these having such broadly varying specs. And here I was thinking that if I could I.D. the bike brand that built with the rear assembly I have, that would surely be all revealing, not knowing that Schwinn did not just use one source for parts, changed parts altogether a couple times, had different models necessitating various install methods, and outsourced some of the assembly/install/build. I guess these are the kind of things that make this hobby interesting, or "The torture never stops!"
 
Yes, my rivets are not as strong as they could be, but in my defense, I had no idea what I was doing when I built that jack-axle for it. Amazingly, it worked out the first time. I will have to re-do it soon. I am not sure what you mean by "Flange bearing in the ends of the axle tubs". See how primative the hubs are?

BTW Ed, I'm sorry for hoggin' up space on your post, I was not trying to hi-jack you. My apologies.
Ace Hardwhere or just about any parts store, .........Curt, just be careful not to get to cheep of ones.
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Wow, so that's the hub with a short half-axle still in it, and the double flats slide into the rear diff gear that was in the other pix, right? There is no keyway slot in the axle so no need for the punch in the hub to hold it, other than that hole in the flanged side of the hub, so just a bolt or pin thru that hole and then thru the short axle? That is the hub that spokes would be laced into with the hoops for the rear wheel, right? Just being sure that's what I'm looking at. So what I'm realizing here is that every one of these older Trykes might actually be unique from one another, and only similar in really random instances, other than having 3 wheels in common. No wonder it's been so hard to locate any "spare parts" with these having such broadly varying specs. And here I was thinking that if I could I.D. the bike brand that built with the rear assembly I have, that would surely be all revealing, not knowing that Schwinn did not just use one source for parts, changed parts altogether a couple times, had different models necessitating various install methods, and outsourced some of the assembly/install/build. I guess these are the kind of things that make this hobby interesting, or "The torture never stops!"
You are correct just a nut and bolt through the inner Flange. That is the hub roster to the axel andnthe double flat end inside the diff held in place by a clip. Indo like that the cog on the rear diff uses the 4 carriage bolts that hold the diff halves together. Easy replacement if you need to repair or even change sizes up or down. Not sure what I'm going to do with it now, but I'm sure I think of something. This was on a 1976 Murray built Sears and Roebuck Free Spirit Ted Williams Jr. Special Edition. 1st year and other then the shifter handlebars and tunes and tires are completely different then the ones built later.
 
Ya these are really good for motor drive, as both wheels pull insted of one wheel, and do not scrub going around a corner.....Curt
 
Ya these are really good for motor drive, as both wheels pull insted of one wheel, and do not scrub going around a corner.....Curt
Yeah, I made a trade with a neighbor last night for an electric start 10hp horizontal shaft Tecumseh engine. Lol. And because I've always been doomed to over do things sometimes, I want to hook that up, and thinking about putting an electric motor underneath it as well. I figure it has 3 wheels so for symmetry it needs 3 different forms of propulsion. Lol. This right here is why I did not enter this in the build off.
 
Finally had a little spare time this morning to play with the trike some. The forks and front wheel are just for this mock-up. And I'm going to move the frame foreword about 8" and do some modifications for the seating area. And I'm hoping to move the saddlebags back and actually attach to the side of the frame they are sitting on and try center them over the wheels. May have to narrow the axels a bit to get everything to line up the way I want.
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Found a simple solution to make the bike longer and have a better base for the saddlebags to mount to. Just turned the resr section from the worksman around to face the other direction. Also built a set of triple tree springer forks. The top plate for the springs is just one I had lying around. I'll be cutting one from a 1/2" thick cast aluminum plate I have and I'll be putting a 26' wheel up front as well.
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I know. I need to make the new top plate extend out to get both forks to run parallel to each other and I know it's going to have some flopping when turning tight. The forks on this flop like that if I turn to tight. I put together another set of these and they preformed about the same as the ones pictured. Butvi didn't use heavy enough plates so the tol.llate bent pretty quickly. And I'll be setting the rear of the bike up higher then in the mock up photos.
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