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Wouldn't you stop and ask why is the Dentist's office is in a garage? Nope they stay open year round. The police will come if there's a crash, but usually they just slide straight down and miss houses. I have big concrete barriers at the front of the house. They can stop a truck.

I received my steel, 12 x 14 and 2 mm thick. I think 1mm would work better but it's already paid for. I have the rivet nuts and little tool that sets them. I may have 4 pipes instead of 5 per side but haven't decided yet. I'll see how hard it is to bend this steel first.

I finally took the bike out for as good ride. But by 9am it was already about 100 with the humidity so I walked it back up the mountain. This shows what streets are unsafe to drive on when dry. All of them are risky when wet. The bike did great on the uneven pavement with the new fork. The...

I don't have any more copper to use, but I remembered I had some steel ties. I can paint them copper to match but it might be ok as is. The bike is done as far as I can see with mirror and bell added. It's ready to go shopping.

Your serial number will give the date of manufacture. It's on the left rear dropout, I think the bike is older than 62. Bendix made 2 speed hubs back then. They had red band and yellow band 2 speed automatic hubs, you shifted by pedaling slightly backward. Yours is a manual 2 speed and has a...

I tried that on a Beast (Walmart Fatbike) and it didn't work because of the coaster brake. Even with a tensioner the brake requires too much pressure to make it work.

How to attach it to the bike? Brown zipties? Homemade copper brackets?

Free flashlight! :rofl:

I thought it had a curved middle bar. That solves the problem right there. The serial number makes it a 1939 model. Here's one, Liberty badged, from the CABE: https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/1939-schwinn-liberty.117734/

Now I see where you say it's a 62. It's a Corvette because it was the only 1962 bike in green with chrome fenders.

And with a crash rail to boot. The 2 speed ND hub is before 1960 I think. I took a 64 American all apart and cleaned each part, then waxed it and it looked like a new bike. Schwinn used good paint and baked it on and also had excellent chrome. You can get the manufacture date from the serial...

As usual, I found some good info right here. I don't remember this thread but it's a 40 Schwinn Klunker. I still can't find a straight downtube DX frame without dropout ears. https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/1940-schwinn-dx-klunker-build.102445/

That's a lot of good info. If the ears weren't on the 1939 bikes then my numbers aren't right. 40 numbers begin with a "C" according to the research I did some time ago. Since this bike has no ears it would be a 40 or 41 because of the rear facing dropouts. 1935 and 37 used a "B" but the numbers...

With those large regular spaced digits it would be a 39 model.

Looks like a good 30's Schwinn frame. The white paint around the seat tube looks like it was added. All the DX's I've seen don't have white trim that high up on the seat tube. When you get it it might clean up enough to use the original paint. You can also check the serial number to see what...

On the frame, look for small cracks in the paint around the lugs, especially the head tube lugs. That will tell if the frame is compromised. Those frames were stronger than the forks.

The croc material showed up. It was a big piece for 4 bucks. I cut out both sides and glued them on. I may or may not use gold rivets around the edges tomorrow depending how it looks on the bike.

If it's bent forward that usually means it was bent back from a collision, then bent forward too far. May need another fork.

That's a good bike to work with. Maybe it's just the angle of the pic, but the fork looks bent forward a little.