my next waist of money a crusty old Schwinn DX klunker build

[Slow-Rider]

I say waste of money. because I have 30 or more bikes now. but it will be a fun build. not sure year of frame but seen it on eBay made the seller a offer and bam bike frames mine. wanting to build a period type Klunker. but with all new rubber IE tires and grips. but rest will be mostly used old parts. maybe new chain and maybe new 3 speed wheels. question # 2 leave paint as is or strip it and re do it? I just can't make up my mind. question #3 any one have one for sale or got a picture of the wright head badge for this frame? it's a rough canvas but will look cool and be a fun rider when done.

 

[Wayne]

#3 any one have one for sale or got a picture of the wright head badge for this frame?

First thing you need to know what size head badge. Many older Schwinns had a larger head badge. Check the screw mounting holes. Large badge has 3 3/16" center to center holes. (92mm for the metric challenged folks) Smaller badge has 2 5/8" (64mm)

 

[Pondo]

Klunkers are great, this will be a fun build. I think you can go either way on the paint. The original has some cool patina but putting a nice paint job on it would be sweet too. There’s probably a lot of head badges that could have been on a DX frame. Back in the 70s I think they liked to use the Excelsior badges on the klunkers. Have fun with it!

 

[Slow-Rider]

First thing you need to know what size head badge. Many older Schwinns had a larger head badge. Check the screw mounting holes. Large badge has 3 3/16" center to center holes. (92mm for the metric challenged folks) Smaller badge has 2 5/8" (64mm)

View attachment 280155

when it ships to me I can check the holes

 

[Wildcat]

Looks like a good 30's Schwinn frame. The white paint around the seat tube looks like it was added. All the DX's I've seen don't have white trim that high up on the seat tube.
When you get it it might clean up enough to use the original paint. You can also check the serial number to see what year it is and match it to a possible model.

 

[68z27]

when it ships to me I can check the holes

Ya know, Slow-Rider............I could have saved you a lot of trouble if you had that frame mail to me instead............

 

[Slow-Rider]

Looks like a good 30's Schwinn frame. The white paint around the seat tube looks like it was added. All the DX's I've seen don't have white trim that high up on the seat tube.
When you get it it might clean up enough to use the original paint. You can also check the serial number to see what year it is and match it to a possible model.

thank you for info.

 

[Wildcat]

With those large regular spaced digits it would be a 39 model.

 

[Slow-Rider]

thinking 3 speed hub in back up front drum brake. that way I get 2 more cruising gears but don't have to mess with derailleurs . I want a brooks saddle / seat. un sure on forks. can go the true torch tribute 26" BMX Proline forks or old stock type Ashtabula / Schwinn forks with trusted rods .

 

[Slow-Rider]

so it looked like this at one time?

 

[Slow-Rider]

checked a few sites they all claim 1939 DX , only year for straight down tube

 

[Slow-Rider]

getting mixed info quote. As previously mentioned the first balloon tire bikes had either a motorbike or camel back style frame. Starting in 1935 Schwinn introduced a new style frame. The first design straight bar frame is generally called a ‘double diamond’ due to the straight seat stays which create a triangle or diamond shape to match the front part of the bike (Fig. 6 blue and white frame

For 1936 the straight bar frame had curved seat stays and this feature would remain through the end of production of the straight bar frame (Fig. 7).

In 1938 Schwinn introduced the iconic cantilever frame (Fig. 8). Since its introduction the cantilever frame has been copied by nearly every bicycle manufacturer.

In 1939 Schwinn introduced a budget minded line called the DX. At first glance the DX frame (Fig. 9) looks very similar to the straight bar frame. Upon closer inspection however you will notice that the bottom bar (underneath the top tube) has a slight curve to it. For this reason the tanks between a straight bar and a DX will not interchange. The first year frame (1939) shown in Fig. 9 has built in drop stand ears. 1940 and later DX frames will not have these ears and look like Fig. 1. This is one of the few Schwinn frames to ever have this feature. The DX frame was only used until 1953 which is before Schwinn introduced its middleweight line so all DX frames are balloon tire bicycles.

By identifying whether or not a frame is pre or post war along with the style it will aid in potentially narrowing down the model of bike even if it lacks other identifying features such as a name on a chainguard which is never found on prewar bikes. As mentioned above there are many other differences on these frames, Besides the different sizes the straight bar and DX frames may have straight or curved down tubes and the tanks for B and BC straight bars will not fit C model straight bars and vice versa.

Armed with this information you should be able to determine whether you have a straight bar, DX, or cantilever frame. Enjoy the ride!

 

[Wildcat]

getting mixed info quote. As previously mentioned the first balloon tire bikes had either a motorbike or camel back style frame. Starting in 1935 Schwinn introduced a new style frame. The first design straight bar frame is generally called a ‘double diamond’ due to the straight seat stays which create a triangle or diamond shape to match the front part of the bike (Fig. 6

For 1936 the straight bar frame had curved seat stays and this feature would remain through the end of production of the straight bar frame (Fig. 7).

In 1938 Schwinn introduced the iconic cantilever frame (Fig. 8). Since its introduction the cantilever frame has been copied by nearly every bicycle manufacturer.

In 1939 Schwinn introduced a budget minded line called the DX. At first glance the DX frame (Fig. 9) looks very similar to the straight bar frame. Upon closer inspection however you will notice that the bottom bar (underneath the top tube) has a slight curve to it. For this reason the tanks between a straight bar and a DX will not interchange. The first year frame (1939) shown in Fig. 9 has built in drop stand ears. 1940 and later DX frames will not have these ears and look like Fig. 1. This is one of the few Schwinn frames to ever have this feature. The DX frame was only used until 1953 which is before Schwinn introduced its middleweight line so all DX frames are balloon tire bicycles.

By identifying whether or not a frame is pre or post war along with the style it will aid in potentially narrowing down the model of bike even if it lacks other identifying features such as a name on a chainguard which is never found on prewar bikes. As mentioned above there are many other differences on these frames, Besides the different sizes the straight bar and DX frames may have straight or curved down tubes and the tanks for B and BC straight bars will not fit C model straight bars and vice versa.

Armed with this information you should be able to determine whether you have a straight bar, DX, or cantilever frame. Enjoy the ride!

That's a lot of good info. If the ears weren't on the 1939 bikes then my numbers aren't right. 40 numbers begin with a "C" according to the research I did some time ago. Since this bike has no ears it would be a 40 or 41 because of the rear facing dropouts. 1935 and 37 used a "B" but the numbers weren't large or regular. But 39 was the only year for a straight down tube. It doesn't have a high sequence number so it wasn't a start of the new year bike. I'll do some digging to find a good solution.

 

[Wildcat]

As usual, I found some good info right here. I don't remember this thread but it's a 40 Schwinn Klunker. I still can't find a straight downtube DX frame without dropout ears.

https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/1940-schwinn-dx-klunker-build.102445/

 

[Slow-Rider]

As usual, I found some good info right here. I don't remember this thread but it's a 40 Schwinn Klunker. I still can't find a straight downtube DX frame without dropout ears.
View attachment 280171
https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/1940-schwinn-dx-klunker-build.102445/

going by the info I found on line mine mite have been made before the DX frames came out. it has the straight un curved middle bar and straight down tube. plus no kick stand braces under drop outs.

 

[Slow-Rider]

like these a lot might try to make mine like them.

 

[Wildcat]

going by the info I found on line mine mite have been made before the DX frames came out. it has the straight un curved middle bar and straight down tube. plus no kick stand braces under drop outs.

I thought it had a curved middle bar. That solves the problem right there. The serial number makes it a 1939 model. Here's one, Liberty badged, from the CABE:

https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/1939-schwinn-liberty.117734/

 

[Pondo]

If the middle bar is straight it’s probably a C model or maybe a B model. Those are some of the strongest old klunker frames.

like these a lot might try to make mine like them.

Those are genuine klunkers from back in the day. As displayed at the Mountain Bike museum in Marin county.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

like these a lot might try to make mine like them.

Alan Bonds was one of the guys making those original klunkers. He's got a website listing the build specs for a bunch of the old bikes.

http://clunkers.net/

 

[JA331]

I would repaint it. This is the ‘36 Schwinn I painted and built. It has a Giant cromo mtb fork, Dia-compe front canti brake setup, Araya rims and a 2 speed Sturmey kick back hub.