🏁 LE MIRAGE - An update.

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So far so good with the spray.bike kit. I over applied in a few of the joins and had to sand off and start again - next time I do it will be better for the experience.
2 x top coats for the gloss finish next.



Now that it's dry and photographed in daylight I can get a bit closer with the mockup. The colour lightened up a fair bit. I'm pretty happy with the result - so far.

MOCKUP2.jpg


Put some more effort into the cranks too. They have a clear coat that give a nice contrast on the sides and groove.



 
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OddJob

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Looks awesome with the white walls
Maybe white bar tape to go with those stunning white walls?

I can view the 'crank arm' video, but the first one 'paint video' has sound but no picture?

You are really getting a shine out of those parts! Looking good!
 
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I can view the 'crank arm' video, but the first one 'paint video' has sound but no picture?

You are really getting a shine out of those parts! Looking good!

That's weird - it's working on my devices. It's just waving the phone around the frame. And thanks - it's gonna sparkle. :cool:

Maybe white bar tape to go with those stunning white walls?
I hear ya - and it did have white bar tape when I got it - and was going down that path again - but I think it gets too grubby too quickly - and I'm always messing with bikes and chains and ... so I went for a black padded leather tape to compliment the seat.
 
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I applied the spray.bike clear coat this afternoon. TBH it's not a great result. I followed the instructions - minimum 20cm and applied as evenly as I could - and it's somewhat orange peel.

If my normal spay can work is a 2, and a professional powder coat job was a 10 - this is maybe a 6.

I thought I'd get another can of clear and give it another few coats - but they are out of stock in Aus.

SO I'll let it dry and give it a polish and see how it comes up. Ultimately, It will do - but it's not quite as good as I hoped.

I wonder if normal clear gloss acrylic would work as a top coat - ?

96.jpg


On a more positive note - moar bits arrived. Seat post from Germany, Fenders from China, bottle and cage from Sydney.
Small world these days.

95.jpg
 

OddJob

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I haven't explored much beyond Rustoleum and Dupli-color rattle can paints, with a couple of DC Perfect Match paints. I have found out that when using acrylic lacquer or enamel, you want to use the same based clear over the paints. It will lift and peel and crack if you don't. Sorry I didn't see this post till just now at 5:30 am my time, @BDC.

That's the downfall of being 15 hrs behind you in time, and I was asleep for the last 8 ....
 
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Thanks Oddjob - Yes - I gave it a try on some scrap - and it definitely isn't compatible.
In the meantime I've put some elbow grease into the finish and it's coming up 'reasonably' OK.

I don't think the result is the fault of the product/s - more the inexperienced applicator - but at least I know what not to do next time. And I will try it again. My Kona would look good red :)

And I dunno - It's still 2003 here in Brisbane.
 
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Hey, say, could you provide me with a link for that axle?

This is the size that usually goes with the cotter pin cranks, only this one is square taper, right?

It's the original axle that came with the bike sorry. I thought about using a cartridge instead - but It's too nice to replace so I polished it up.
 

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Love the vid ! It makes a cool connection to hear a human voice attached to the bike; brings it alive!

Dialect has always intrigued me. Why do our voices sound the way they do, based on where we are from? To hear my voice, and yours, with their own 'identities' and my friend @Fv2 speak in his kind of Southern Ohio drawl, is fascinating to me. Keep 'em coming!
 

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Love the vid ! It makes a cool connection to hear a human voice attached to the bike; brings it alive!

Dialect has always intrigued me. Why do our voices sound the way they do, based on where we are from? To hear my voice, and yours, with their own 'identities' and my friend @Fv2 speak in his kind of Southern Ohio drawl, is fascinating to me. Keep 'em coming!
Maybe I'll try a Scotch accent in my next video.🤣
 
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102.jpg

101.jpg


I bought a 'handyman quality' (cheap) truing stand too. I had been using the cable tie on the frame trick - but this is appropriate for the amount of use it will see.
Wondered what was going on till I worked out it's upside down to what I'm used to - and tightening and loosening are the other way around -- doh!
But I've got the hang of it now and the rear wheel is almost good to go.

100.jpg
 
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Rim tape, tube protectors and tyres fitted.

103.jpg


The Duro whitewalls are a higher profile than standard tyres and I can't fit the back wheel with it inflated. I can't get it far enough forward in the stays to clear the dropouts. It will work and there is enough clearance if I inflate it after installation. Small 'mercies' (Pun intended).

I'm also not sure about the fenders now. There is very little clearance with the taller rubber I may have to fabricate new brackets. Not sure about the look either.

I'm now waiting for a new freewheel - although the old one is serviced, a few of the cogs are a bit corroded - so I nice Suntour zinc plated jobbie was $16 and will look and perform mucho better.

Can't do much else till it gets here - and it's already a day late per the tracking. Oh well. Maybe we play with the fender mounting after all.I have some Alu. strip in stock.
 

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Been playing catch-up on this build… you’ve made a lot of progress.

The paint and decals look great! Well done! Everything eles coming together is going to make a eye catching ride.
 

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