1980 Collegiate 3 Restoration

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bikeriderx said:
Woah! Look what I just ran across...
http://losangeles.kijiji.com/c-For-...ll-Original-Mint-Condition-W0QQAdIdZ151586671
:shock: "All Original MInt Condition...Yea! Missing the front fender! At least mine has the "Schwinn Approved" Mesinger saddle...Now I'm thinkin'...I've always wanted to visit LA!! :lol: And here I was, thinking that I was gonna ask $125 for mine....

Yikes! I was gonna ask $200 for mine (I know, I know 'Where's the pics?'), I think my price just went up!
Looks like the one in the ad had a few paint scrapes too, makes me wonder about using the 'mint condition' in the ad.
 
cman said:
Don't paint. The paint looks to be in good shape. That red is so deep and hard to replace.

Yeah, and those scratches will buff right out! :lol:
Repainting is a tough call, I tend to buff the paint out WITH all the scratches and flaws, gives the bike character!
Besides, if it's too nice (repainted) I'd be afraid of putting scratches in it myself.
 
I've had good success with just cleaning thoroughly and clearcoating the frame. It looks really good on all I've done. And it gives me a shot at another gratuitous post of my Collegiate... :D
IMG_0077-1.jpg

IMG_0076-1.jpg

IMG_0074-1.jpg

IMG_0073-1.jpg
 
Don't repaint...Schwinn original paint looks awesome and retains the value of the bike.
 
those chips / scratches arent bad. plus it never fails ... if you repaint a bike, 90% of the time youll have a chip or scratch before you can put it together and ride it :lol: but you seem organized enough that may not happen !!! still, if you plan on selling it, leave it be, the paint cost would be more than what it would add to the value. plus time involved.
 
Rat Rod said:
Don't repaint...Schwinn original paint looks awesome and retains the value of the bike.
Metal Miltia said:
i would keep the original paint too. can't wait to see it assembled.
Okay, okay!! :lol: I'm leaving the paint as is! With that out of the way...I might even get started re-assembling it. :mrgreen: Thanks everyone!
 
There is great satisfaction that comes from reassembling a sanitized vintage Schwinn. :wink:
 
drabe said:
Cool! I've not seen a black one. Post a pic! :mrgreen: I would really, really urge you to at least disassemble and check the crank bearings and headset bearings. The bearings on mine were completely dry! :shock:

Cool, thanks for the details!
I've got some before pics but haven't brought them to work to load yet.
Your right though, I'll probably take it down further when I get to it (I haven't even 'dated' it yet), I'm in the middle of another bike right now.

I've got a few questions for you, I've done searches but haven't seen answers to my specific questions.

I haven't seen where your at this point yet, but do you recommend going into the rear hub?
I've never messed with a 3-speed hub before and I'm a little intimitated by it, my concern is I'll get it apart and not be able to get it back together and shifting 'properly'.
I've also noticed a 'plug' on the rear hub, is this some type of zerk or grease fitting?

Also, is there a trick to disconnecting the cable at the rear hub?
Should I mark it somehow and hope that it'll work correctly when it goes back together or does the cable usually need fiddling with anyway to get it to shift properly?
Sorry for the amatuer questions, just haven't done the 3 speeds before.
Dave
 
drabe said:
drabe said:
Cool! I've not seen a black one. Post a pic! :mrgreen: I would really, really urge you to at least disassemble and check the crank bearings and headset bearings. The bearings on mine were completely dry! :shock:

Cool, thanks for the details!
I've got some before pics but haven't brought them to work to load yet.
Your right though, I'll probably take it down further when I get to it (I haven't even 'dated' it yet), I'm in the middle of another bike right now.

I've got a few questions for you, I've done searches but haven't seen answers to my specific questions.

I haven't seen where your at this point yet, but do you recommend going into the rear hub?
I've never messed with a 3-speed hub before and I'm a little intimitated by it, my concern is I'll get it apart and not be able to get it back together and shifting 'properly'.
I've also noticed a 'plug' on the rear hub, is this some type of zerk or grease fitting?

Also, is there a trick to disconnecting the cable at the rear hub?
Should I mark it somehow and hope that it'll work correctly when it goes back together or does the cable usually need fiddling with anyway to get it to shift properly?
Sorry for the amatuer questions, just haven't done the 3 speeds before.
Dave


FIrst I'm glad your keeping the original paint, it looks great and is worth more that way.

The fitting on the rear hub is for oil, put a few drops in to keep the inside lubed up.

The chain on the rear hub just unscrews, you can mark with tape before you undo it so you know about where it goes, it might still need to be tweaked with after though. Its not hard to adjust.
 
ratina said:
drabe said:
drabe said:
Cool! I've not seen a black one. Post a pic! :mrgreen: I would really, really urge you to at least disassemble and check the crank bearings and headset bearings. The bearings on mine were completely dry! :shock:

Cool, thanks for the details!
I've got some before pics but haven't brought them to work to load yet.
Your right though, I'll probably take it down further when I get to it (I haven't even 'dated' it yet), I'm in the middle of another bike right now.

I've got a few questions for you, I've done searches but haven't seen answers to my specific questions.

I haven't seen where your at this point yet, but do you recommend going into the rear hub?
I've never messed with a 3-speed hub before and I'm a little intimitated by it, my concern is I'll get it apart and not be able to get it back together and shifting 'properly'.
I've also noticed a 'plug' on the rear hub, is this some type of zerk or grease fitting?

Also, is there a trick to disconnecting the cable at the rear hub?
Should I mark it somehow and hope that it'll work correctly when it goes back together or does the cable usually need fiddling with anyway to get it to shift properly?
Sorry for the amatuer questions, just haven't done the 3 speeds before.
Dave


FIrst I'm glad your keeping the original paint, it looks great and is worth more that way.

The fitting on the rear hub is for oil, put a few drops in to keep the inside lubed up.

The chain on the rear hub just unscrews, you can mark with tape before you undo it so you know about where it goes, it might still need to be tweaked with after though. Its not hard to adjust.

Hey drabe! If the hub is shifting ok-just lube it as ratina said...Also go to this link on RRB:
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1162
Where you can look up your hub and print a srevice diagram. Yes there is a "trick" to adjusting the shifting...The diagram/instructions should let you know how to do it depending on your model hub. As for dis-connecting the cable, just un-screw the tiny lock nut from the place where the wire cable and the little chain join...Then when you put it back together, you can adjust it as per the service instructions. Good luck! :mrgreen:
 
Wow, thanks for the info guys!
I'm hoping to get this bike and a Columbia Sport (3 speed) done and on the road this weekend. I got the tires and tubes this week, just need to go thru the bearings and finish detailing.
Thanks again!
 
drabe said:
Wow, thanks for the info guys!
I'm hoping to get this bike and a Columbia Sport (3 speed) done and on the road this weekend. I got the tires and tubes this week, just need to go thru the bearings and finish detailing.
Thanks again!
You're welcome! Post more pics soon!! :D I'm doing a burrito build with markm Saturday...I'll try and get some assembly done... :wink: And I need to mow the lawn... :roll:
 
Gold Street Customs said:
I went my local Home Depot to purchase some wood bleach.....and since I am in California :( everything that works good they take it off the market they had some universal deck clean/bubble bath junk they were trying to sell me .......so the search continues :x
Yea, I couln't find it at Home Depot or Lowe's. Ace Hardware was the only place it could find it. If your local Ace doesn't have it do an internet search...I think there are web stores that sell it...And you're looking for the kind that comes in crystal form...Good luck!
 
How's the Collegiate build going or are you still cutting the grass?
Mine keeps getting bumped, I've done two other bikes and just started another last night while waiting on the brown box to show up!
 
Dude! I have been sooo busy lately! But NOT working on the Collegiate! :( I'm hoping to get back on it this week(end) and get some pics up. Plus I'm trying to clear out some junk bikes to make room for winter storage! Thanks for asking drabe! Wish me luck! :wink:
 
Gold Street Customs said:
I went my local Home Depot to purchase some wood bleach.....and since I am in California :( everything that works good they take it off the market they had some universal deck clean/bubble bath junk they were trying to sell me .......so the search continues :x
I've been using a vinegar bath for rust removal. Outside of the smell, it's been working pretty good.

Nice thread on the Collegiate. I picked one up for $20 and am thinking of repainting it rat style since the paint is basically shot.
 

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