I'll be surprised if any manufacturers ever start manufacturing underdrive 2spd kickbacks again. I'm pretty sure Bendix was the only firm that ever made'm that way, and the overdrive version should be more robust, all other things being equal....
2 SPEED KICKBACK WHEEL SETS - NEW 1.75" VERSION!!!!!!
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I'll be surprised if any manufacturers ever start manufacturing underdrive 2spd kickbacks again. I'm pretty sure Bendix was the only firm that ever made'm that way, and the overdrive version should be more robust, all other things being equal....
Rat Rod
Owner & Founder
My thoughts were the exact opposite. I would only be interested in an underdrive unit. I know any level of gearing can be achieved thru sprocket sizing, but little chainwheels look stupid.
Define "little."
My thoughts were the exact opposite. I would only be interested in an underdrive unit. I know any level of gearing can be achieved thru sprocket sizing, but little chainwheels look stupid.
I hear ya, and that's what the Bendix hubs (other'n the blue band) are for, and I agree about the look of small front sprockets.... that being said, 44x22= 52" gear inches on a 26" wheel; 52x1.3* = 68" gear inches.... So, I'd be inclined to go with 2:1 direct which would result in a nice overdrive gear.
(I'm getting deja vu here; I feel like we had this same discussion re: the Automatix?)
*Going by Steve's suspicions re: the gearing....
I cannot speak for Balam, but I'm a total gear-nerd. I wasn't always that way, but I feel like my quality of life has improved since I started geeking-out about gear ratios and crank-arm length.
Gearing is extremely important when you only have a couple to choose from! And short cranks make me cranky.
Also, my girlfriends favorite bike has a 36 tooth chainwheel and it looks funny to me...
Rat Rod
Owner & Founder
Help me understand this.....because we're talking about a 2 speed hub here.
It would seem that you have two options...more resisteance or less resistance when pedaling.
I assumed that if you wanted to fine tune those two different modes you would change out sprockets (front or rear) to get it to a place that you felt comfortable with.
I'm obviously not a gear nerd and I live in a pretty flat part of the country, so for me...I get on a bike with two speeds and I ride and think....it needs to be easier to pedal now...okay, now it needs to be harder to pedal now.
For some reason it never has been much more complicated than that for me. Granted, I am casually cruising around the neighborhood....not trying to win any races or replace my car with a bike so I'm probably in a totally different league than the two of you.
It would seem that you have two options...more resisteance or less resistance when pedaling.
I assumed that if you wanted to fine tune those two different modes you would change out sprockets (front or rear) to get it to a place that you felt comfortable with.
I'm obviously not a gear nerd and I live in a pretty flat part of the country, so for me...I get on a bike with two speeds and I ride and think....it needs to be easier to pedal now...okay, now it needs to be harder to pedal now.
For some reason it never has been much more complicated than that for me. Granted, I am casually cruising around the neighborhood....not trying to win any races or replace my car with a bike so I'm probably in a totally different league than the two of you.
You're right, Steve, and here's the gist of it....
A 2speed kickback, or even a cable-actuated 2speed, is going to have 2 ratios. It's going to have the direct-drive , which is basically what your front/rear sprocket combo would be geared like with a singlespeed, and then you'll have the other gear, where the planetary kicks in. The other gear can be overdrive or underdrive, which is to say, that second gear will either be "more resitance" (ie, higher gear) or "less resistance" (you guessed it, lower gear).
The Bendix "autos" offered both versions. There were red and yellow band versions, which were direct/under, and then there was the blue band, which was direct/over. The blue band was designed for 20" wheels; due to their lower final drive, the 20s benefitted more from an over than they did from an under.
In either case, within normal gear ranges, you can get the desired ratios by judiciously changing the front or rear sprocets. (I always shoot for the rear sprocket first, as it's cheaper, but that's just me.) I prefer the overdrive hubs b/c low gearing (sub 2:1 f/r ratios) will fry a planetary, but the direct drive is more robust and wiill survive it. So, you can make the direct drive the climbing gear, and the overdrive can be reserved for the low-torque cruising.... easier on the hubs' guts. I suspect that the manufacturers agree, as they've all either started with the diurect/over set-up (Sachs/SRAM, Sturmey Archer, KT) or moved to that design as time went on (Bendix).
Then again, you rarely hear about ppl making guacamole out of their direct/under Bendix hubs due to high torque/low gear ratios. (Possibly b/c they've been out of production for half a century...) But it is a common problem with multi-(3+)speed hubs. This is why Sturmey made their 8 speed a direct plus 7 over....
But that's just one gear nerd's opinion.
A 2speed kickback, or even a cable-actuated 2speed, is going to have 2 ratios. It's going to have the direct-drive , which is basically what your front/rear sprocket combo would be geared like with a singlespeed, and then you'll have the other gear, where the planetary kicks in. The other gear can be overdrive or underdrive, which is to say, that second gear will either be "more resitance" (ie, higher gear) or "less resistance" (you guessed it, lower gear).
The Bendix "autos" offered both versions. There were red and yellow band versions, which were direct/under, and then there was the blue band, which was direct/over. The blue band was designed for 20" wheels; due to their lower final drive, the 20s benefitted more from an over than they did from an under.
In either case, within normal gear ranges, you can get the desired ratios by judiciously changing the front or rear sprocets. (I always shoot for the rear sprocket first, as it's cheaper, but that's just me.) I prefer the overdrive hubs b/c low gearing (sub 2:1 f/r ratios) will fry a planetary, but the direct drive is more robust and wiill survive it. So, you can make the direct drive the climbing gear, and the overdrive can be reserved for the low-torque cruising.... easier on the hubs' guts. I suspect that the manufacturers agree, as they've all either started with the diurect/over set-up (Sachs/SRAM, Sturmey Archer, KT) or moved to that design as time went on (Bendix).
Then again, you rarely hear about ppl making guacamole out of their direct/under Bendix hubs due to high torque/low gear ratios. (Possibly b/c they've been out of production for half a century...) But it is a common problem with multi-(3+)speed hubs. This is why Sturmey made their 8 speed a direct plus 7 over....
But that's just one gear nerd's opinion.
The only problem here is that for my uses, and many of the folks on this site I believe (slow and easy), 7 overdrive gears would require an extreme sprocket combo, and that is not a cool aesthetic IMHO. I have absolutely no need for much of a high gear, I just don't want to be too strained by the modest hills I encounter.
Also, red band kickbacks (underdrive), of which I have had a few, have been very good to me. A very reliable hub, even with worn parts inside. But they were made with a quality of manufacturing and materials that cannot be expected anymore.
I agree re: the Sturmey 8 speed, and it's a danged shame, but it is what it is. Early versions of that hub were terrible, too. New ones are said to be better.
Re: red bands: No arguments. Great hub.
Re: modern quality: it still exists, but at a very high pricepoint, and not typically available on CB hubs, unfortunately.
Re: red bands: No arguments. Great hub.
Re: modern quality: it still exists, but at a very high pricepoint, and not typically available on CB hubs, unfortunately.
Rat Rod
Owner & Founder
Unfortunately no idea.
The tire would be slightly wider than the rim since the rim is about 2.125" wide.
The biggest concern usually ends up being the tire height. Too tall and it will hit the frame where the kickstand usually mounts.
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Rat Rod
Owner & Founder
The wider the rim, the lower the profile of the tire. Now...if you ran a BOA-G 26" x 3.45" tire that would be really tall...too tall for fenders or to fit in your frame probably. If you ran the same wheels with 2.125" tires the profile would be much lower and they may fit under your fenders.
I guess it all depends on how wide the fenders are.
I guess it all depends on how wide the fenders are.
You'll wanna measure between the stays at about 11" from where the axle will rest. Measure from 11" up the stays to the fender mounts/brake bridge to see how much space you have for the tire height. Measure how much space rests between the stays (both seat- and chain-stays) at about 12"up, as this is where tire width will be widest. Take a few mm into account to allow for fenders if you plan to run them, but also for wheel run-out, b/c if it's too tight, even the tiniest hop will cause rubbing. The 57mm wheels with 2.35 tires will probably run a little mode than the 2.35" nominal in terms of width, and a little less in terms of height. Keep in mind that some manufacturers tend to run the measurements high, whereas others run'm low....
Rat Rod
Owner & Founder
Just added a new option....26" x 1.75" for only $149.00 plus shipping!!!!
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http://ratrodbikes.storenvy.com/collections/158902-wheels-tires
Click here to order
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I am currently running Bontrager Solana 26 x 2.35 tires on a set of Jemima wheels on an Electra Cruiser 1 (they balloon up nicely). I'll measure the width in the morning.
Any chain ring with less than 52 teeth is little.
Gary
