24-inch Sears

[ParkRNDL]

Here we go. Picked this one up this past spring; for a while I thought I'd tinker with it and ride it as found. That didn't happen all summer, so when the MBBO was announced a couple months ago, I decided this would be a good candidate. Between parts I've been collecting since then and stuff I had lying around, here's where we are at:

I have seen a number of pics of 24-inch Spyders from 66-72 or so that had a 24 x 2.125 rear and a 24 x 1 3/8 front; I think this is the original front wheel and I definitely want to use it.

The rear, however, is aluminum and seems to have been robbed off a department store 24" MTB. If it was chrome steel like the front, I'd just use it, but it bugs me to have the aluminum one on there. Big thanks to @idiotboy , who offered me this steel 24" 5-speed wheel in a trade:

This old Kelly Springfield Road Trac is probably from an earlier generation of bike, but I think it'll have just the right look:

Front sprocket and Shimano Lark derailleur could be original, from photos I've seen. The derailleur works, so it's staying. Sprocket's a little big for my taste and may be changed.

These brakes kill me. (Hopefully not literally.)

I'd actually like to try to drill the fork for a front caliper. Anyone have any experience with that? Words of wisdom to share?

Seat has to go.

Love the headbadge and the lines of the frame.

In the last month or two, I picked up the seat at the Hershey swap, the bars at the Kutztown, PA swap, and the sissy at the LBS.

I don't remember where I got this shifter... probably either Carlisle swap meet or Fleabay, but it's been kicking around for years. I thought it'd be a cool Schwinn Hurricane-type deal to mount on the stem, but it seems you need an extra-long stem to use it. I have a plan in the works to adapt it for use on the twin top tube.

First two orders of business: the rear axle and wheel bearings need attention and the lower headset cup seems to need a shim. Let the games begin.

 

[ParkRNDL]

Sooooo.... I got right to work on those wheel bearings and headset, right?

WRONG. I did what any self-respecting muscle bike fanatic would do and and mocked up the apes and nanner and sissy.

edit: upon looking at more pics of original 24" Spyders online, it looks like they did not have a high flange front hub, so this one is not the original. don't care, I like it and I'm using it.

 

[Indyjps]

Ooh, this is good. Dual top tube. Nice sweep on that frame. 24 is a great size for adult muscle. Those dual brakes are wild.
Love the high flange.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

The tread on that old tire is excellent, and somehow, two brakes are more than 2x cooler than one brake

 

[ParkRNDL]

So I posted some pics of this project on a couple of FB muscle bike groups I belong to. A friend who lives a couple towns over commented, "hey, I have a shifter that would fit that frame with the double top tubes." A deal was struck.

Heck yes I'm stoked. Looks like it was never used. It even has the little atomic-themed symbol to match the Sears headbadge. I haven't looked at the guts yet; I wonder if it takes an oddball cable end type.

 

[rat krate orange]

Here we go. Picked this one up this past spring; for a while I thought I'd tinker with it and ride it as found. That didn't happen all summer, so when the MBBO was announced a couple months ago, I decided this would be a good candidate. Between parts I've been collecting since then and stuff I had lying around, here's where we are at:
View attachment 178051View attachment 178052

I have seen a number of pics of 24-inch Spyders from 66-72 or so that had a 24 x 2.125 rear and a 24 x 1 3/8 front; I think this is the original front wheel and I definitely want to use it.
View attachment 178053

The rear, however, is aluminum and seems to have been robbed off a department store 24" MTB. If it was chrome steel like the front, I'd just use it, but it bugs me to have the aluminum one on there. Big thanks to @idiotboy , who offered me this steel 24" 5-speed wheel in a trade:
View attachment 178062View attachment 178063

This old Kelly Springfield Road Trac is probably from an earlier generation of bike, but I think it'll have just the right look:
View attachment 178064
View attachment 178065

Front sprocket and Shimano Lark derailleur could be original, from photos I've seen. The derailleur works, so it's staying. Sprocket's a little big for my taste and may be changed.
View attachment 178057View attachment 178056

These brakes kill me. (Hopefully not literally.)
View attachment 178059

I'd actually like to try to drill the fork for a front caliper. Anyone have any experience with that? Words of wisdom to share?
View attachment 178055

Seat has to go.
View attachment 178058

Love the headbadge and the lines of the frame.
View attachment 178054View attachment 178060View attachment 178061

In the last month or two, I picked up the seat at the Hershey swap, the bars at the Kutztown, PA swap, and the sissy at the LBS.
View attachment 178066View attachment 178067View attachment 178068

I don't remember where I got this shifter... probably either Carlisle swap meet or Fleabay, but it's been kicking around for years. I thought it'd be a cool Schwinn Hurricane-type deal to mount on the stem, but it seems you need an extra-long stem to use it. I have a plan in the works to adapt it for use on the twin top tube.
View attachment 178069View attachment 178070

First two orders of business: the rear axle and wheel bearings need attention and the lower headset cup seems to need a shim. Let the games begin.

Is that hole meant for a cigar igniter by chance? Looks pretty cool to me... Razin..

 

[rat krate orange]

So I posted some pics of this project on a couple of FB muscle bike groups I belong to. A friend who lives a couple towns over commented, "hey, I have a shifter that would fit that frame with the double top tubes." A deal was struck.
View attachment 178266View attachment 178267View attachment 178268View attachment 178269View attachment 178270

Heck yes I'm stoked. Looks like it was never used. It even has the little atomic-themed symbol to match the Sears headbadge. I haven't looked at the guts yet; I wonder if it takes an oddball cable end type.

You could try the shifter cable you have now that might work as they are pretty much standard ends.. F.Y.i., that head badge is the regular SR badge it looks fancier than it really is. Looking good so far.. RaToN.. Razin..

 

[Bike from the Dead]

That is hands-down one of the coolest muscle bikes out there. Twin-bars x2, twin rear caliper brakes, 24-inch, and a 5-speed? To my knowledge, there's no other muscle bike like it. You've got yourself a fiiiine specimen there, perfect for a MBBO! I can't wait to see the end result!

 

[ParkRNDL]

Wow. I can't believe how many fans the dual rear brake setup has. The first big change I was gonna make was to drill the fork for a front brake. I can't imagine two calipers on the back wheel works real well. Have any of you all ridden one of these? Do the brakes actually work?

I mean, just for cool points, I suppose I could try to get both rear calipers to work off one lever, and then add a front brake. So far, the only prefabricated contraption I've seen to make that work costs something like 50 or 60 bucks.

 

[GeePig]

How about if you used something like the splitter they have on centre-pull calliper or older types of cantilever brakes, as they are essentially one input / two output devices?

 

[MattiThundrrr]

Problem Solvers has double barrel brakes for less...
https://www.rockcitycycles.ca/produ...MIm6Woyqmk9AIVA5KGCh2_jwG2EAQYAyABEgJtAfD_BwEOr maybe you could try something with one of those splitters used in BMX gyro headsets

one goes in, two come out

 

[ifitsfreeitsforme]

this is very cool. Looking forward to seeing it done.

 

[ParkRNDL]

How about if you used something like the splitter they have on centre-pull calliper or older types of cantilever brakes, as they are essentially one input / two output devices?

Problem Solvers has double barrel brakes for less...
https://www.rockcitycycles.ca/produ...MIm6Woyqmk9AIVA5KGCh2_jwG2EAQYAyABEgJtAfD_BwEOr maybe you could try something with one of those splitters used in BMX gyro headsets
View attachment 178663one goes in, two come out

I thought about the center-pull hanger and the Gyro/Rotor type splitter, but they both would require some seriously creative cable stop and/or cable end fabrication. Still mulling it over.

That double barrel lever actually is a pretty appealing option... I just wish it wasn't so MTB/BMX-looking.

 

[ParkRNDL]

So I tinkered a little today. Ran a cable from the shifter to the derailleur and it all seems to work fine; saving the fine-tuning for later when I get a new chain and I have the rear wheel I want to use all tuned up and straight. I also got the brake system tightened up enough to ride up and down the driveway and see how I feel about two rears and no front. I realize the upper brake has a bent arm, but I think I'm going to leave it rather than try to bend aluminum back into shape. After riding a little, I decided it's not as bad as I thought it would be, and that's with the too-short cables and janky dried-out brake pads that were on the bike when I got it. (After the fact I looked closer, and I'm pretty sure two of the pads are even on upside down.)

If I get some nice new cables and route them correctly, and some nice new pads, and snug it all down to spec, I'm pretty sure the current brake setup will work fine for recreational riding. Just need to pay attention and plan ahead. But then that's the same thing I gotta do when I drive around my old '65 Impala with 4 wheel manual drum brakes...

 

[Bike from the Dead]

So I tinkered a little today. Ran a cable from the shifter to the derailleur and it all seems to work fine; saving the fine-tuning for later when I get a new chain and I have the rear wheel I want to use all tuned up and straight. I also got the brake system tightened up enough to ride up and down the driveway and see how I feel about two rears and no front. I realize the upper brake has a bent arm, but I think I'm going to leave it rather than try to bend aluminum back into shape. After riding a little, I decided it's not as bad as I thought it would be, and that's with the too-short cables and janky dried-out brake pads that were on the bike when I got it. (After the fact I looked closer, and I'm pretty sure two of the pads are even on upside down.)
View attachment 178925View attachment 178926

If I get some nice new cables and route them correctly, and some nice new pads, and snug it all down to spec, I'm pretty sure the current brake setup will work fine for recreational riding. Just need to pay attention and plan ahead. But then that's the same thing I gotta do when I drive around my old '65 Impala with 4 wheel manual drum brakes...

I've got a few old caliper brake parts I could give you if you need them. They may not be a perfect match, but last I checked, they weren't bent or anything.

 

[ParkRNDL]

I've got a few old caliper brake parts I could give you if you need them. They may not be a perfect match, but last I checked, they weren't bent or anything.

thank you! I have a stash in the basement I can pick through first, though. I will let you know if I'm stuck...

 

[Bike from the Dead]

thank you! I have a stash in the basement I can pick through first, though. I will let you know if I'm stuck...

You're welcome! Sounds like a plan!

 

[ParkRNDL]

Reconsidering my tire options. I just noticed this going on in at least two places on the front tire. No bueno.

And the rear tire I had picked out, in case you don't want to scroll allll the way up to see this pic, is also showing its age.

Now, I've ridden on tires that were probably that bad, but I know I shouldn't. So I'm looking at my options.

For the front 24 x 1 3/8 (ISO 540), I figure I'll go with something plain like a Kenda K40, which is available and cheap.

As for the rear... from my research, the bike came with a 24 x 1.75 (ISO 507), and I'm pretty sure I can go as high as 24 x 2.125 without worrying about clearance. At the moment I'm looking at a Maxxis Holy Roller in 24 x 1.85. It looks kinda knobby-ish, but it seems to be a knobby designed for street/urban use.

Anybody have other brilliant suggestions for the rear that won't break the bank? I considered the 24" Jerald Sulky slick, but I actually saw a comment on here from a zillion years ago where a guy had a problem with it not fitting on the rim of a 24" Spyder; not sure exactly why that would be. Maybe you all have used a Jerald 24" and can share your experience? (@CRASH , you were considering it for a 24" Spyder in that thread.) Also open to any other cool-looking 24-inch street tire options...

 

[CRASH]

@ParkRNDL I didn’t use it, but it came be used. The original Spyders used a 1.75” rear, so you’ll have problems in two areas: 1) you may have to spread the chain and seat stays to fit the width. 2) the rear fender is also for a 1.75” width so won’t fit. So perhaps get a regular 24” duck tail fender and cut to fit? I’ve never tried. The Spyders I have seen went fenderless.

 

[Grant]

Sooooo.... I got right to work on those wheel bearings and headset, right?

WRONG. I did what any self-respecting muscle bike fanatic would do and and mocked up the apes and nanner and sissy.
View attachment 178079


edit: upon looking at more pics of original 24" Spyders online, it looks like they did not have a high flange front hub, so this one is not the original. don't care, I like it and I'm using it.

You an use a dual pull brake lever for the 2 rear brakes and add a single front brake as well for extra stopping power.