'61 American Teardown

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Well, here's how far along I've gotten. It's definitely fun taking them apart, but we'll see if I can get it back together!

IMG_0585sm.jpg

IMG_0584sm.jpg


I still need to try removing the bearing cups from the BB and the headset. And then I need to bring it in to a local shop to get that kickstand off. I can get the spring to compress, but canNOT get that .... pin out!

Then my uncle's got a guy who can sandblast & powdercoat the frame & fork on the cheap. Then I'll get around to removing rust; Steel wool & oil; Also got some supposedly non-toxic rust remover where you soak it overnight, we'll see how that goes. Ever tried electrolytic rust removal? Interesting concept.

The spokes are shot, so still debating whether I try to salvage the rims/hubs and get them relaced, or just buy a new wheelset. Not sure.

Great learning experience so far tho. Any ideas on a cheap working stand? Sure would be nice to have something holding it up for reassembly.
 
Re: My '61 American

Oh, and if anyone is interested in the handlebar, grips [GONE], chainguard, or beat-up fender, they won't be going back on — I've got other plans there. So shoot me an offer if interested (Not sure if they're worth much). Also, I'm looking for a cloverleaf chainring for my wife's Typhoon.
 
The Grips
If they are not torn up, I can used them?
Mitch
 
If the rims are Schwinn, you'll be limited in what tires to use. You might be better off going with standard 26" rims. And unless you really want the original coaster hub (red band?) it would be cheaper to get a new one instead of having a wheel made up with it.
 
Yeah, I think I'm going with a new wheelset for exactly those reasons. Thanks.
 
It's not that hard to lace a wheel, and if you have a red band, it's far more dependable than an asian hub. A new coaster wheel would have appropriate length spokes, and you could always swap it in later, looky here. http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic. ... d=a#p30168 You can use your frame as a truing stand by mounting and aligning a functional wheel, and scribing a mark around the mounting nut/washer. It is not critical to pass the third cross over, as is specified in the linked tutorial.
 
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