A couple mechanical issues that are stumping me

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CRASH

CRASH

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I'm having some issues with my Monster Ray that I'm not having success figuring out.

http://imageshack.us/a/img822/6290/ifql.jpg


1) The headset keeps loosening at the fork crown. I thought that the race wasn't seated, but when I pulled it apart tonight it was. So, I cranked it back down, tightened up the lock not, and took it out for a ride. A moment later it was loose again. Did I accidently put the wrong crown race on there? I have no idea what's causing it.

2) There is a mechanical 'thunk' coming from the rear hub in 3rd and 4th gear when pedaling. Not when cranking the bike on the stand, and it doesn't happen in 1st or 2nd gear. (I can't drop into 5th, that's issue 3). I can't tell what's causing the 'thunk'!

3) The derailleur won't drop into 5th gear (smallest cog). It's not cable tension, it's not the limit screw. It will drop if I grab it and pull it towards me. It will work fine, shift down, but then won't shift up again until I pull it. I'm guessing a spring isn't pulling its "weight", but have no idea where to start diagnosing.

Any and all help greatly appreciated!
 
The keyed washer would be my guess for problem 1.

Problem 3. Did you spread that frame to accept the 5 speed freewheel? Double check to make sure the rear dropouts are straight/square. http://sheldonbrown.com/forkend-alignment.html
Then disconnect the cable at the derailer. Will the chain find the smallest cog when pedalling? If not, it has to be a limit screw problem.

Problem 2. Reconnect the shift cable by pulling it snug and tightening down the screw/bolt. This should set the cable tension properly. Next check to make sure the teeth in 3 and 4 are not bent. Then check to make sure that your chain does not have any tight links. Tight links will make this noise in the smaller cogs. Also measure the length of your chain to make sure it is not worn out.
 
cman said:
The keyed washer would be my guess for problem 1.

Problem 3. Did you spread that frame to accept the 5 speed freewheel? Double check to make sure the rear dropouts are straight/square. http://sheldonbrown.com/forkend-alignment.html
Then disconnect the cable at the derailer. Will the chain find the smallest cog when pedalling? If not, it has to be a limit screw problem.

Problem 2. Reconnect the shift cable by pulling it snug and tightening down the screw/bolt. This should set the cable tension properly. Next check to make sure the teeth in 3 and 4 are not bent. Then check to make sure that your chain does not have any tight links. Tight links will make this noise in the smaller cogs. Also measure the length of your chain to make sure it is not worn out.
Click to expand...
I spread the frame at the front where the fender meets to accept the tire with the hub attached to keep the spacing/alignment.

Chain is brand new, but I'll check for bent teeth.
 
1) Betting that the fork tubes are what's giving you fits. I had to tap lightly with a dead blow hammer to settle all my pieces together, a couple times.

2)&3) I will take a bet both problems are chain alignment. You need to get the front sprocket out farther. Also I will bet there's a big washer that was behind the sprocket, you need to reinstall.
 
The sprocket is new. It's a 52 tooth schwinn mag. I put 2 washers behind the inner race to get the new sprocket out farther. I thought the alignment was pretty good. I guess I'll check it again.
 
Alignment should not matter to much since you are using friction shifting, though I dont' know what those overload tubes do.

Did you disconnect the shift cable at the derailer to see if it will find the smallest cog by itself?

Also when you put your new chain on, did you use a master link or chain tool to connect the chain. If you used a chain tool, you may have a stiff link.
 
cman said:
Alignment should not matter to much since you are using friction shifting, though I dont' know what those overload tubes do.

Did you disconnect the shift cable at the derailer to see if it will find the smallest cog by itself?

Also when you put your new chain on, did you use a master link or chain tool to connect the chain. If you used a chain tool, you may have a stiff link.
Click to expand...
I'm also new to the overload tube. However I did disconnect and it doesn't drop. It's not a limit screw issue because I can physically pull the derailleur to the smallest cog, the chain will drop, and it will stay and drive fine. It will shift fine, but not shift back.

I always use a chain tool. I don't like master links. And I always work the newly connected link back and forth to loosen it up.

I'm honestly thinking its a spring problem in the derailleur itself. It's an old derailleur. I hosed it down with liquid wrench to clean it up. I'm thinking of pulling it, and pulling it as much apart as I can get it to see if I can see if there is some spring I can adjust.
 
CRASH said:
I'm also new to the overload tube. However I did disconnect and it doesn't drop. It's not a limit screw issue because I can physically pull the derailleur to the smallest cog, the chain will drop, and it will stay and drive fine. It will shift fine, but not shift back.

I always use a chain tool. I don't like master links. And I always work the newly connected link back and forth to loosen it up.

I'm honestly thinking its a spring problem in the derailleur itself. It's an old derailleur. I hosed it down with liquid wrench to clean it up. I'm thinking of pulling it, and pulling it as much apart as I can get it to see if I can see if there is some spring I can adjust.
Click to expand...
How about adding a washer between wheel and frame to allow derailer enough room to pull chain into position?
 
:39:Not sure I understand. Are you actually tightening the inner race against the bearing?o_O I'll assume not, and suggest that the top nut may be bottoming against the steer tube before becoming sufficiently tight against the race, in which case the solution is adding another washer.
 
I zoomed in on your pic. It looks like the headset is missing the lock washer that goes between the top race and nut. It's the keyed washer that secures in the slot in the fork threads so it can't rotate and loosen.

aewayu.jpg
 
Last edited:
deorman said:
:39:Not sure I understand. Are you actually tightening the inner race against the bearing?o_O I'll assume not, and suggest that the top nut may be bottoming against the steer tube before becoming sufficiently tight against the race, in which case the solution is adding another washer.
Click to expand...
Two different discussions. The washers behind the inner race are on the sprocket side of the crank. Not the headset. There is still room at the top nut on the headset, so that isn't it.

And Wildcat, I had forgotten to add it. The lock nut has been added since that picture, but it still loosened.

I don't think I took off but a link or two. I'll add two links to see what happens.
 
If the tab on the keyed washer is good and didn't fail, then it must be loosening some other way. I remember on some Schwinns I worked on, the bearing cups had a little tab on the part that goes in the frame with a corresponding indentation on the frame. They were meant to go in at that exact location. The cups should fit like a glove. I also remember the lower bearings were a different size, maybe it was a modified bike, but it only worked with the larger bearing set on the bottom. If nothing else works, I would take it apart and make sure the forks are intact, the bottom race is seated exactly on the forks. Then check the cups seated in the frame for alignment and or movement. Then place the bearings in the cups to check the fit. Put the forks back on without the wheel and rotate it to see if there's any binding or loosening up. Whatever the problem is should show up after all that.
 
I haven't tried setting up a Schwinn derailleur in years (decades:grin:), although I'm sure I have a couple in a bucket somewhere. I recall them being pretty picky about chain length, but if that doesn't help perhaps the side-to-side spring isn't pushing hard enough, as you suspected. Not sure what to do about that, isn't it riveted together?
 
deorman said:
:39:Not sure I understand. Are you actually tightening the inner race against the bearing?o_O I'll assume not, and suggest that the top nut may be bottoming against the steer tube before becoming sufficiently tight against the race, in which case the solution is adding another washer.
Click to expand...
Adding a washer to the rear axle on the gear side to move the gears farther away from the derailer would allow for more outward pull on the derailer.
 

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