A Proper Rat Rod

[Wildcat]

If it's super smooth and has no play, I'd leave it alone, except for a little light oil.

 

[GeePig]

View attachment 234351

TI Sturmey-Archer, so no older than 1960, so unlikely to be older than me.

Dammit, I remember such things new in the shops...

 

[Jude Ephesus]

TI Sturmey-Archer, so no older than 1960, so unlikely to be older than me.

Dammit, I remember such things new in the shops...

I talked to the original owner‘s son last night at a party; I told him about my ‘1930’s theory’ On the bike. He said no way. He said he was really young, but remembered his his dad (Mr. Thieben) bought the bike new at a bike shop in Long Island in the late 60’s.

If it's super smooth and has no play, I'd leave it alone, except for a little light oil.

100%. - 0 play.

I'd done some investigation since finding one similar and will likely return here for later instruction so I appreciate all this, but couldn't quite connect those numbers nor frame with a 30s build either, and I tried. (Surely you've seen that the 30s builds supposedly start with a letter). I did just notice that tiny mushroom hook behind the cranks on both frames for the pump mount. At the very least the 70s frame has a more precise bend that might hint at newer machining and if I'm seeing that correctly doesn't seem to use copper at the head like the (hopefully) older frame.

I’ll dig deeper on the SN today. I was thinking 30’s on this bike as all I can find is A ‘30‘ on the bottom bracket and I read somewhere that for a while all Raleigh did for serial numbers was stamp the last two digits of the year of manufacture.

I trust my source on the late 60’s / original owner, but I will dig deeper on the serial number just to see if I can make some since of it.

 

[user 35233]

I talked to the original owner‘s son last night at a party; I told him about my ‘1930’s theory’ On the bike. He said no way. He said he was really young, but remembered his his dad (Mr. Thieben) bought the bike new at a bike shop in Long Island in the late 60’s.

I'd done some investigation since finding one similar and will likely return here for later instruction so I appreciate all this, but couldn't quite connect those numbers nor frame with a 30s build either, and I tried. (Surely you've seen that the 30s builds supposedly start with a letter). I did just notice that tiny mushroom hook behind the cranks on both frames for the pump mount. At the very least the 70s frame has a more precise bend that might hint at newer machining and if I'm seeing that correctly doesn't seem to use copper at the head like the (hopefully) older frame.

If that tiny piece shines up like copper it's a good indication it may be pre-war.

I just checked my own frame for hooks and found none =( which seems from the catalog that you can at least narrow the model down from their having a pump or not.

 

[Jude Ephesus]

I just checked my own frame for hooks and found none =( which seems from the catalog that you can at least narrow the model down from their having a pump or not.

Yes: the very early models had a frame clamp with a point on it that I think attached the the frame like the shifter pulley.

 

[BobbyStillz]

Raleigh made the same bike for 80 years an early Raleigh headset will fit right into the 80s. Problem with Raleigh is nothing from anything else fits. Threading is different.

Raleigh and Schwinn... the 'Apple' of the bike world. Smh

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Wheels scrubbed

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Tried for some faux-Tina to fade the green and the black:

 

[Jude Ephesus]

And @The Renaissance Man was right: a whole bunch of numbers after the ‘30’

No clue what it means, but looks like a full serial number to me!!!

from what I can gather, the 7 digits + BB location would indicate that my friend is right and this would be a ‘63-‘69 frame.

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Frame scrubbed: not the last, but nice move forward:

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Got my headlight bracket cleaned up

 

[Jude Ephesus]

And… found and successfully drilled out the holes where the head badge will go:

The hole on the left looked like it had JB Weld on it or something: I had to break out a file to find the sheared off rivet.

 

[ingola]

And @The Renaissance Man was right: a whole bunch of numbers after the ‘30’

No clue what it means, but looks like a full serial number to me!!!

from what I can gather, the 7 digits + BB location would indicate that my friend is right and this would be a ‘63-‘69 frame.
View attachment 234568

Sixties to mid 70s you don't have the Raleigh self adjust brakes but may have been changed I'm thinking superb model with different front tire and your crank has eyes late 70s models didn't

 

[ingola]

https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_ralsport_visID.html#SportsLRDecals is the easiest way

 

[Jude Ephesus]

https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_ralsport_visID.html#SportsLRDecals is the easiest way

I‘m yet to find a decal peeking through on this thing.

before I hit it with the clear, I’ll do a light sanding and see if I can see anything.

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Sixties to mid 70s you don't have the Raleigh self adjust brakes but may have been changed I'm thinking superb model with different front tire and your crank has eyes late 70s models didn't

One thing I did notice, and I’m a bit concerned, the green bike has tabs on both the down tube and the seat tube for mounting the chain guard. This black bike doesn’t have anything!

 

[twojs.bike]

I’m curious how thick that Sturmey Archer oil is? I’ve read very differing advice on what type of oil to use.

 

[Jude Ephesus]

I’m curious how thick that Sturmey Archer oil is? I’ve read very differing advice on what type of oil to use.

its almost like honey: my hands are clean now.. I‘ll do a video for you next time I go to wrench on it!

 

[ingola]

The chain guard on yours had a bracket that wrapped around and pinched in the back

 

[ingola]

Chaingauard from the 60s early 70s

One after 75