A Proper Rat Rod

[Wildcat]

More info on location:

"The Raleigh bicycle serial number location is on the side of the seat lug, front of seat lug, or at the bottom bracket. The serial convention during this period has six digits, usually followed by the letter P or T. The letter P was introduced and used until 1950, while T was used in the mid 1950s."

 

[Jude Ephesus]

I think you have newer wheels. So the SA hub date won't reflect the year of the frame. The serial number is either on the BB or top of the seat tube facing to the rear of the bicycle. There's a lot of info on Raleigh serial numbers, but I can't verify any of them, most people use the SA hub for a date. If you find a number I'll check it out.

Thanks! I’ve been over this thing with a fine tooth comb!

i can’t find any numbers on the seat tube or lug.

The BB has what I‘m hoping is caked, hardened grease. I’m hoping if I nuke it with degreaser and carb cleaner and blast it with high pressure, it will reveal a number.

 

[curtisfox]

The way the cable swoops down from the seat tube to the head tube, would make a Kool tank shape……Curt

 

[Jude Ephesus]

The way the cable swoops down from the seat tube to the head tube, would make a Kool tank shape……Curt

That….. is amazing input! Thank you!!!!

That head tube sure is tall creating a lot of space!!!!!

I think you’re on to something and something should be in there!!!!

 

[OddJob]

Ahhh, the 'Mr' Bill bike! Nice to see you grab that out of the stable and give it the Jude treatment.

RaT oN~!

 

[Ulu]

Oh man! A cottered crank bike!

If you haven’t done one of these before you’ll now have the excuse to buy or make some new tools.

The first bicycle I ever saw my dad take apart was a lady’s Raleigh style bike with cottered crank arms.

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Oh man! A cottered crank bike!

If you haven’t done one of these before you’ll now have the excuse to buy or make some new tools.

The first bicycle I ever saw my dad take apart was a lady’s Raleigh style bike with cottered crank arms.

Thanks! -gonna tear into it this weekend to see what I find.

I've heard the cottered cranks are a nightmare.

truth be told, the crank, chain ring and arms are all fine and 100% functional.

If I see a lot of work or special tools needed, I will probably just leave well enough alone and work around them.

 

[ingola]

Thanks! -gonna tear into it this weekend to see what I find.

I've heard the cottered cranks are a nightmare.

truth be told, the crank, chain ring and arms are all fine and 100% functional.

If I see a lot of work or special tools needed, I will probably just leave well enough alone and work around them.

If there good and your using them leave them alone. I use a ball joint splitter 25 bucks on Amazon.

 

[twojs.bike]

I use a vise and a socket head. Works great, but you have to strip the bike down to the frame. (Which you will be doing anyways) I believe RJ the bike guy has a video.

 

[Jude Ephesus]

I use a vise and a socket head. Works great, but you have to strip the bike down to the frame. (Which you will be doing anyways) I believe RJ the bike guy has a video.

Saw that video online! I think I can do that!

 

[Wildcat]

I have a few cottered cranks bikes, they still make them and use them on this side of the world. I don't use any special tools. I've had a lot of 3 speeds, Hercules, Robin Hood, Phillips over the years with cotters.
I loosen the nut slightly to give room for the pin to drop, then tap on it with a hammer, but put a block of wood between the pin and hammer to protect the threads. You can hit it pretty hard and not damage the cotter. Even rusted in pins will come out that way.
Your bike looks like it's been redone a few times so I bet the pins come right out. If there's no play in the bearings and it turns well, no noise or anything then it is best to leave it and just clean it up.
If you do take out the cotters, remember one side goes in the opposite direction of the other. I didn't know that and couldn't figure why the cranks weren't in line sometimes. I found an article that covers cotter pins pretty well:
https://www.restoration.bike/bike-repair/cottered-crank-removal/

 

[100 mile howie]

And here are the parts bikes…..View attachment 230132

That rack with pannier baskets has major cargo carrying capacity.

 

[Jude Ephesus]

I have a few cottered cranks bikes, they still make them and use them on this side of the world. I don't use any special tools. I've had a lot of 3 speeds, Hercules, Robin Hood, Phillips over the years with cotters.
I loosen the nut slightly to give room for the pin to drop, then tap on it with a hammer, but put a block of wood between the pin and hammer to protect the threads. You can hit it pretty hard and not damage the cotter. Even rusted in pins will come out that way.
Your bike looks like it's been redone a few times so I bet the pins come right out. If there's no play in the bearings and it turns well, no noise or anything then it is best to leave it and just clean it up.
If you do take out the cotters, remember one side goes in the opposite direction of the other. I didn't know that and couldn't figure why the cranks weren't in line sometimes. I found an article that covers cotter pins pretty well:
https://www.restoration.bike/bike-repair/cottered-crank-removal/

Awesome input! Thank you!

 

[Jude Ephesus]

That rack with pannier baskets has major cargo carrying capacity.

All over it!!!!

 

[Jude Ephesus]

So, it’s Raleigh day here at the local coin operated car wash!

Just trying to blow as much dust, dirt and grease off of these things to get me to square one!!!

The proper rat rod: minor disassembly and power washed:

The green alto: donating front forks and fenders

The coffee step through: donating rear baskets, R-bolts, pedals and probably front wheel: piece together and flip

The matching hers to the proper rat rod. ‘Some day’

Fix n flip, keep saddle for another project

And…. The whole shebang:

 

[OddJob]

Busy day in Back40 N.E....

 

[ingola]

So, it’s Raleigh day here at the local coin operated car wash!

Just trying to blow as much dust, dirt and grease off of these things to get me to square one!!!View attachment 231113

The proper rat rod: minor disassembly and power washed:
View attachment 231114

The green alto: donating front forks and fenders
View attachment 231115

The coffee step through: donating rear baskets, R-bolts, pedals and probably front wheel: piece together and flip
View attachment 231116

The matching hers to the proper rat rod. ‘Some day’
View attachment 231117

Fix n flip, keep saddle for another project
View attachment 231118

And…. The whole shebang:
View attachment 231119

You can sell the the three speed coaster break for the same price as the whole bike

 

[Jude Ephesus]

I’ve got a busy several weeks and headed on a business trip later today

Doing some disassembly and getting the outdoor shop set up.

I got the baskets off of the brown bike

@ingola - any idea what this was holding?

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Mr. Thieben was definitely creative!

 

[Jude Ephesus]

And did a lot of busy work stripping the bike down getting it ready for paint

Front brakes are shot

Rear brakes replaced