AMF Daytona

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CRASH

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I'm building a bike for a friend. He has a '67 Charger, and wants a complimentary muscle bike for himself to take to shows, show off, and ride. He's 6'1", so that means a 26" custom bike.

Here's the foundation. An AMF Courier. Honestly, I think this bike is a little homely... so I need to knock out the ugly, and insert the cool. (pic found on the web since mine is in pieces)

1xDHUh.jpg



We're calling it the "Daytona" because, as I said, he owns a vintage Charger. In '69 they came out with the Dodge Charger Daytona "Superbird", so... we thought the "Daytona" was a fitting muscle bike name to compliment the car. And for anyone that has followed my 26" clone builds before, you'll know I like to say as true to original, or at least "They could have done it" as I possibly can. This bike will be no exception.

Here we go!
 

kingfish254

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I've always thought the fender, fat drops, and cool chainring cover would lend these to a muscle bike makeover.
 

OddJob

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I right away thought of the klunker build "One Bad A.M.Fer" from our Off-Road Build Off a couple of winters back. Might be three years now. That was a sweet build, might be good for some inspiration.

onebadamfer.jpg


I know your Daytona will be more of a street version, but maybe some of the blacked out ideas, and the red accents on the gold are worth a nod.
 

CRASH

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Got a chance to poke around with this today. I’m waiting on a new rear rim so I can order spokes for it’s wheels. But the rear wheel I’m going to build is almost identical to the rear wheel of my King ‘Cuda, so I borrowed it.

The original plan was to keep the original rear fender.’ I wasn’t a fan of it, but the client liked it, so there you go. Today I discovered the original is just too this to accommodate the Jerald Slick.

73pAby.jpg


It’s also to fat to fit the width of the chain stays.

wFk7rq.jpg


Remember, the original rear tire was a 26x1-3/8”. So it’s not surprising I can’t stuff this 26x2.125 in there easily. So I put the spreader on it and I’m leaving it overnight.

DnIzme.jpg


I also put a fender on order, so more to come with that.
 

GuitarlCarl

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KIMG0932.JPG

@CRASH with the addition of a piece of thick felt on the inside of the curve this homemade tool can get you probably a good 3/8th" of clearance on each side, by pinching the chain stay and adding an inside dimple. With heat you can get more and the next pair I build will be with the biggest visegrips I can find, just to make the crimp easier.

Carl.
 

CRASH

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View attachment 107162
@CRASH with the addition of a piece of thick felt on the inside of the curve this homemade tool can get you probably a good 3/8th" of clearance on each side, by pinching the chain stay and adding an inside dimple. With heat you can get more and the next pair I build will be with the biggest visegrips I can find, just to make the crimp easier.

Carl.
That is a really cool idea!
 

CRASH

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I think I might try to build that dimple tool that Carl showed. It would help alleviate some crowding.

I was poking around with this bike and was looking at how I’m going to set up derailleur operation and chain travel. The frame has this lip that folds towards the wheel, which directly interfere with chain travel. So... it’s going to have to come off.

wGSWHd.jpg
 
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I think I might try to build that dimple tool that Carl showed. It would help alleviate some crowding.

I was poking around with this bike and was looking at how I’m going to set up derailleur operation and chain travel. The frame has this lip that folds towards the wheel, which directly interfere with chain travel. So... it’s going to have to come off.

wGSWHd.jpg
I ran into this same issue when I built One Bad AMFer. You may find that even with the lip gone it is still a very tight clearance if any. I eventually wound up setting my derailleur to stop at the 4th gear.
 
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