First challenge, a welded on fork retainer nut to the stem ... And a surprise helper, Airman Georden Cordle, home for a few days before heading out to sea!
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Anchors Aweigh AKA Fighting Checkmates - Riding toward the finish line!
- Thread starter Uncle Shish
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Disassembled except for one side of the springer mechanism on the fork.
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Now, where are all my good parts hidden?
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How did you remove the welded on stem?
We used a grinder and a dremel with a cutter bit and went around the perimeter of the nut. It ruined the stem but we were eventually able to remove the nut from the steerer tube.
The front springer nuts are proving to be a challenge. Also, the frame is quite rusty on the chain stays and it gives me some structural integrity concerns. I’m going to hit it with a wire wheel and see what I have.
That frame looks to be a 50's Murray, so it should have enough thickness to easily repair any area that looks suspect.
This is a 55 Murray:
This is a 55 Murray:
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Thanks for the photo. It's badged "Fleet Wing". Hoping to get the layers of paint off soon to reveal the full serial#
Any good tips for removing the headbadge and being able to reuse it, and reattach it again?
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Been sitting on these skirts for a while ... Hoping to make them fit.
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The skirt and chainguard combo works for me,
If I can make it fit without permanently altering the parts I will use them for sure.
So, the fender bolt broke off and was rusted into the fork. Luckily Georden is still here and we ground down the nub and he welded a screw in its place. I swear this fork weighs as much as my mountain bike!
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The Renaissance Man
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It's tricky, but you may be able to knock the fasteners out from the inside of the headtube. Soak them with PB Blaster repeatedly for a few days first. Prying it off from the front will most certainly destroy it.
Love the skirt guards. Looks like a great fit from here!
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A good mate of mine works on high end carbon bikes and often passes by work with them. I have weighed a few of them and the average is around 15lbs, which is around the same as the alloy wheel/tire combo I am using on my Stealthmaster build.
You would have to very carefully drill out the rivets because the metal is thin and easily damaged. Then rivet it back on unless you tapped out a the holes for screws.
If you could leave it on there and work around it, I would do that to be sure it doesn't get damaged.
Nice work getting that fork bolt attached, the skirt guards look amazing, I hope you can make them work.
Color scheming
Everything bolted up, fit and cleared the chainring and crank arms! Next test is fitting the rear wheel for clearance.
I also was able to get all the disassembled fork parts rust free and wire wheeled.
Lastly, I'm in need of a source for a couple parts ...
I'm going to need a fork retainer nut since I had to cut mine off,
and also a lens for this taillight if they make them. If not I'll come up with a solution.
I also was able to get all the disassembled fork parts rust free and wire wheeled.
Lastly, I'm in need of a source for a couple parts ...
I'm going to need a fork retainer nut since I had to cut mine off,
and also a lens for this taillight if they make them. If not I'll come up with a solution.
Maybe a trailer side marker lense?
The Renaissance Man
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Looks about the same size as a Columbia reflector.
