Antiquing, bare metal and preserving rust.

[fjernt]

A few questions bundled together here.

First off, I want to antique a bike I recently bought. I have a brownish primer that I think will look very good, so my question is, can I just use the primer and nothing more? How will that hold up?`Can/should I clearcoat over it?

On a different bike I'd like to strip it completely and keep that color. Should I just clearcoat the bare metal, or leave it without any treatment?

Third, if I let a frame rust controlled, what is the best way to stop the rust and preserve it the way it is? I've heard boiled linseed oil alot, but I don't want rust to rub off on clothing etc. Dry it out, brush it, and clearcoat?

I am not very experienced with paints and treatments, so any and all input here is very welcome!

 

[horsefarmer]

Primer only is OK, but I undestand it is porus so it lets moisture thru and allows the metal to rust.

I have had really good results with boiled linseed oil rubbed on with a rag. It is tacky for a few days, but if you leave it out in the sun it bakes on and dries...

 

[us56456712]

I once took and old rusty frame and soaked it in diluted muriatic acid. I used a home heating fuel oil drum cut in half to soak the frame in. I now use a jet sled that people use to haul their kit out onto the ice for ice fishing. I now use phosphoric acid instead of Muriatic acid. Muriatic acid is dangerous and is reputed to cause hydrogen embittering in the steel frame and also cause rust to become worse. I did the muriatic acid soak years ago and it has not rusted anymore so I guess it is fine. I did remove more of the paint. After I had bare metal from the acid soak I covered the bare metal with Birchwood Casey Plumb Brown gun browning solution. It needs heat to work so I gently warmed it with a torch. I then covered it with boiled linseed oil. Its the bike in the foreground.

 

[The Black Monark]

this place:

https://www.sculptnouveau.com/

 

[The Black Monark]

Here's one I did using sculptnouveau products, it's been stable for a couple of years:

 

[Indyjps]

Bare metal, you can clear coat it, expect it to last about a year before you see spider web rust starting to form and lift your clear coat. If you use automotive clear coat your results may last longer. Clear powder coat is an option too - never used it.

Existing new paint can be antiqued. Look at an old original paint bike, you want to replicate wear. Scuff the entire bike with fine sandpaper or scotch Brite to dull the finish, then rub mud into it. The mud is gritty and will help.
Then start making wear marks. Chain stays, hit them with a chain to make sharp paint dings. The rest of the frame gets a few sharp dings from falling over and the rest of it is wear/rub marks. Use fine sandpaper to wear thru the paint. Put the wear marks where they would be from a rider using the bike, pant leg hitting it, getting on and off. Really helps to be able to look at an old original paint bike.

Making rust, about any mild acid will work, vinegar is probably the easiest, it still takes time to work. Neutralize acids with a mixture of baking soda and water.

Another method is multi paint layers. Good examples on here, maybe someone will chime in, ive never done this one personally. Use red and brown primer in a patchy layout, then color #1 light coats, color #2 light coats. These can be all over or patchy. Sand thru color #2 until you like the look, keep going and get some primer showing thru.

 

[us56456712]

Here's one I did using sculptnouveau products, it's been stable for a couple of years:

amazing

 

[us56456712]

Bare metal, you can clear coat it, expect it to last about a year before you see spider web rust starting to form and lift your clear coat. If you use automotive clear coat your results may last longer. Clear powder coat is an option too - never used it.

Existing new paint can be antiqued. Look at an old original paint bike, you want to replicate wear. Scuff the entire bike with fine sandpaper or scotch Brite to dull the finish, then rub mud into it. The mud is gritty and will help.
Then start making wear marks. Chain stays, hit them with a chain to make sharp paint dings. The rest of the frame gets a few sharp dings from falling over and the rest of it is wear/rub marks. Use fine sandpaper to wear thru the paint. Put the wear marks where they would be from a rider using the bike, pant leg hitting it, getting on and off. Really helps to be able to look at an old original paint bike.

Making rust, about any mild acid will work, vinegar is probably the easiest, it still takes time to work. Neutralize acids with a mixture of baking soda and water.

Another method is multi paint layers. Good examples on here, maybe someone will chime in, ive never done this one personally. Use red and brown primer in a patchy layout, then color #1 light coats, color #2 light coats. These can be all over or patchy. Sand thru color #2 until you like the look, keep going and get some primer showing thru.

On my bike, pictured above, with the gun browning, I used a newer chain guard that had no rust. I removed some of the paint and put it in dilute muriatic acid mixed with salt. It got rusty right away and had pits in the metal. I washed it and browned it to match the rest of the bike. I forgot I did this, being years ago. Thanks for the reminder, I might need to do this again sometime.

 

[Indyjps]

On my bike, pictured above, with the gun browning, I used a newer chain guard that had no rust. I removed some of the paint and put it in dilute muriatic acid mixed with salt. It got rusty right away and had pits in the metal. I washed it and browned it to match the rest of the bike. I forgot I did this, being years ago. Thanks for the reminder, I might need to do this again sometime.

Thats a great finish, never seen gun browning, I'm gonna read up.

There's so many good ways to do patina and so many great bikes on this site, you guys are making me want to stop making things shiny.