Anyone build their own wheel truing stand?

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I was throwing out some stripped bikes, cut the back off a 26" frame thinking I could make a quick wheel truing stand out of it.

The wheels I've trued were bolted into the original frame and I clamp a magnetic base dial indicator to the frame and go from there.
I really like the dial indicator, you can see little blips at each spoke and the set up literally shows you what to do, right or left.

I can do the same with a cut off frame, but need to account for different width axles.

Weld some slotted angle to the sides of it for quick set up of dial indicator to check true. the frame also has v brake mounts that can be utilized.

Some type of sliding plate, or rigid plastic to check roundness.

Any ideas on setting up different width axles quickly? I considered coupling nuts, but I doubt I'll find them in 3/8-26. I guess I could buy a $10 tap, then I'm making multiple spacers.
 
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Since I'm not too particular, I usually just make minor tweaks on the bike, as well. A zip-tie on the blade or stay can make a pretty accurate pointer. For lacing a wheel from scratch, I picked up a gently used Park TS-8 for cheap.
 
Because I do some crazy wheels I had to make my own truing stand which also doubles as a wheel welding turntable:

CAM01083shrink.jpg


The base has a tube that slides inside the other tube to make it adjustable from 0mm to 1,000mm (0" to 40") width.

Here it is with a standard width hub:

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And with a 16" width hub:

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Probably overkill for anyone doing wheel lacing only, but it might give you some ideas.

Luke.
 
i always used a old fork in a vice , now in a xmas tree stand , and my fingers as guides
DSCN7014_zpshrer9ue3.jpg

i do the off set aproximatly by eye and with a ruler across the rim to see the ofset of the cog and axel
 
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The local bike co-op had two truing stands but they could not afford their lease and closed so I have lost my use of them. Lately after I build a wheel I take it to the LBS and they true it for around $10. Heck, lately I have them true my wheels all the time as I like them perfect, unless it is on an old cruiser and then I use an old MB fork, vice grips, vice, straight edge and some welded on nuts. The LBS does it fast and perfect. Some of my bikes have oversized rims or tires and they can't wobble or bounce at all, so the bike shop experts fix it fast and perfect.

One of my 100 mm wide rims has a very slight bounce and that is not that unusual as theses wide rims can have one side, where it clinches, a little higher than the other. Truing won't fix that, only expensive high quality new rims. I just let it bounce as it is not noticeable on single track. Someday I might get good carbon rims for this bike as I prefer perfect rims.
 
My LBS is $17 a rim plus tax, more if they lace.
and even more if you dont provide the spoke , even more if they don't have them in stock ... none of my lbs have any spokes for 20'' or 24'' wheel so they say they have to make them at 2$ a spoke or order a whole box of spokes for 1 wheel , 2 if i need offset :eek::blackeye:
 
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Finally got around to building this. Hope the pics make sense.
Rear triangle off donor bike, cut slots in it to slip angle in for a base, welded. Welded a plate on for magnetic base dial indicator. Pinched frame together for 110 bmx spacing. Ground the front half of the dropout for 14mm, left the back half 3/8".

All junk I had laying around, no cost, about 30 min to make.

I can measure lateral and radial. Be warned, the dial indicator is accurate enough to drive ya crazy.
 
I was thinking that dial indicators would be too much, I have some here to add to my stand, but I like the old manual methods better...
I like using it, you can see a wobble with each spoke. Keeps me from squinting looking at the gap from a zip tie, or indicator.
As you work, the zero point on the rim moves around too.
Gotta just say I'm done at some point though.

The green wheel in there is a real piece of crap, lots of edge dings, I took off the indicator and just used the upright rod to eyeball it. Then ran the indicator on the inside radius next to the rim edge.
 

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