I bought a 1941 Schwinn straightbar w/locking fork at a local show today. I got it dirt cheap but there is one problem. At some point in the past someone welded the stem and headnut together. The only way I could see to even start was to hack off the stem just above the headnut. Then I used a sanding wheel to get down to the point where the welds ended. Now I have a piece of the stem inside the fork which won't come out. I can move it with a screwdriver but only downward. Any ideas as to what might get down in there , grab, and still allow me to pull upward? This thing is going to be very ratty, but I love the color (funky reddish-orange) and it needs to be put back into commission. The fork threads may or may not be salvageable, as the top got deformed during the fight to remove the nut. If neccessary I'll cut and weld on a new steer tube top end. If that's the case then it would be easy to get the stem piece out, but I'd like to try to keep the fork complete if possible.
Basketcase stem/fork situation
- Thread starter ozzmonaut
- Start date
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Hmm quite a pickle.
How about putting the stem bolt back into the wedge after you cut off the stem and rigging up some sort of slide hammer to it? Removing stubborn stems is like lightning.. it never works the same way twice.
How about putting the stem bolt back into the wedge after you cut off the stem and rigging up some sort of slide hammer to it? Removing stubborn stems is like lightning.. it never works the same way twice.
The wedge is gone. They removed it and the stem bolt before welding. I feel I will have to cut the fork steer tube and reweld. Just looking for options right now. A mach. shop might be able to easy-out it. Not trying to spend $$. But this bike truly deserves a new life. It has the drum brake front wheel and a really cool look... plus the fork lock.
How about get a drill bit (twist drill) that almost fits inside the stem. When you start drilling, it will snag and get stuck of course. Hopefully you can keep spinning the broken part and pull it out simultaneously. I have used left handed twist drills several times on broken bolts. You drill it in prep for an ease-out but sometimes it snags and spins right out.
I like the " weld something to it" idea too. Providing you can reach it. It may be beneficial to pull it while the part is hot. If not, you can cool it with water for a second try. I've had luck both ways in other fields of repair.
And speak to that mountain, "Be thou removed".
I'm only serious.
I like the " weld something to it" idea too. Providing you can reach it. It may be beneficial to pull it while the part is hot. If not, you can cool it with water for a second try. I've had luck both ways in other fields of repair.
And speak to that mountain, "Be thou removed".
I'm only serious.
If I get the stem piece out I feel I can save the fork tube threads and all. My friend has one of those fork straighteners that mounts between the fork and bottom bracket. Not sure if they have a specific name. All in all I think this one can be saved.c.p.odom said:
Well, much progress. I made a makeshift slide hammer using a stembolt, washer, drive gear/sprocket, and wedge nut. The washer and head of the nut went down into the stem piece where it would get wedged, then the sprocket was pulled up against the wedge nut with force, repeatedly, until the stem was out far enough to get on good with vice grips. It turns out the wedge nut is still in there, but stripped. I threaded a stem bolt in pretty far and tried yanking it out with no luck. After a couple taps the bolt just launched out of the wedge and towards a window. Right now the steer tube is filled with PB blaster. Maybe that will help. I tapped a seatpost into the fork tube to fix the shape, and the cup/race assembly threaded off fairly easily, so the fork is saved. I'll wait until I get the wedge out, then throw it together and get the fork straightened.
I had a wedge stuck in a fork tube also.I used a 1/4" drillbit, drilled a hole on each side of the wedge(hole). So there was three holes in a line across the wedge. Put a little heat on it with a torch, a couple wacks with a punch and it split into pieces. Hope that made sense, kind of hard to explain. You might also be able to drive the wedge all the way down allowing room for the new stem and wedge.
I had considered knocking it further in , but with the fork lock pin down there it might not leave much room. Splitting it might be the best option so far. Thanks, that's one so obvious that I probably wouldn't have even thought of it.
PB Blaster didn't work, so I took a 3/4" spade bit (meant for wood only :lol: ) and completely eliminated the wedge. Now I get to deal with the lock situation. The key is broke off inside. I'm no locksmith, and I'm not even sure what a locksmith could do. I really don't want to remove the welded plug under the fork, but it may be neccessary to remove the tumbler or depending on the design of the tumbler, use a wire to push the key out. None of the key sticks out so no using needlenose pliers or gluing something to it to remove it. I realize I am WAY too into saving this bike.
Thanks. So with it being swaged I am guessing I will need access to the plug from the inside to hammer it out, but I doubt I can get to it without damage to the lock guts.
I did drill a small hole and used a screwdriver to drive into the metal and up against the lip of the plug. I pried it out, then locked the lock, depressed the clip, and since the key is broken off, i used a screwdriver to leverage the tumbler out from inside. I had heard a small rattling whenever I would move the fork around before trying this. It turns out that little rattle was a small piece of the tumbler where the retainer seats. The retainer ring also was in place but looks incomplete. Both springs were there though. I doubt that the tumbler can be fixed, and I think the whole thing was just being held in by 70 yr old grease. I may have ruined it, I probably should have just left it like it was. But I'm this far now, so I'll have to find a cheap solution.
If anybody is still checking back at this thread, I have an interesting question. I have seen Schwinn forks with a pin cast into the inside of one fork blade for a drum brake. Mine has the front drum brake, but no pin on the fork. The flange where the brake arm has a hole looks like it possibly uses a clamp around the fork leg , similar to how a rear brake arm is clamped to the frame. Does this sound right, or was this front drum brake added to a bike that it isn't correct for? Thanks for all of the help so far and in the future. I may move this to the build section since it has turned into such a long series of issues. But it isn't really a build. It really is just a big pile of problems. But I can't seem to put it down. It is screaming to be made rideable again.
