Boardtracker / Antique motorcycle style bicycle build

[BartRidesEternal]

Hi guys, another update:

The fork is almost (now for real!) ready to weld. Just one final piece of the puzzle is missing.

Mahogany wood for the fenders are ordered.

I found an old style rack that is really sturdy. I did a testfit and I really like it. Some tabs need to be grinded off though.
I do agree that a rack is not very sexy on a boardtracker-like bike, but practical use is a big thing for me. Luckily the awesome antique lighting will make up for that!

I have to think of a sturdy bridge between the rack (front part) and the bikes frame. It is a 155mm gap. I can use a steel bracket or wood.

I really like where it is going! The front fork looks great too. Very happy!

Above: very clean sliding nut (M8 metric) normally used for the aluminum profiles for the welding JIG. The ugly brackets on the rack/carrier will be gone soon.

French bike with a stamp / spoon brake together with a brake cable. Interesting!

 

[Starnger]

Maybe try covering the rack surface with some plate, maybe perforated one? It looks a bit too modern/generic to my taste comparing to the rest of the bike.

 

[PeteMcP]

Yeah, a rack on a board tracker doesn't seem right, but I agree, it makes much more sense when it comes to practicality. Did the same thing on my Gnome/Rhone motorized build. And I needed to solve the same problem you're dealing with when it came to securely fastening the front of the rack to the bike's frame. I used a couple of suitably sized Munsen rings, steel tube and lengths of all-thread cut to size. Pics show the neat result.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Maybe try covering the rack surface with some plate, maybe perforated one? It looks a bit too modern/generic to my taste comparing to the rest of the bike.

I do agree with you Starnger. I have a very old sleigh with beautiful wooden "natural patina" planks lying around that I will consider.
The other thing is a perforated, dimple died, aluminum sheet. Ratrod style.
But I will first tackle the bigger things and get that mockup done

Yeah, a rack on a board tracker doesn't seem right, but I agree, it makes much more sense when it comes to practicality. Did the same thing on my Gnome/Rhone motorized build. And I needed to solve the same problem you're dealing with when it came to securely fastening the front of the rack to the bike's frame. I used a couple of suitably sized Munsen rings, steel tube and lengths of all-thread cut to size. Pics show the neat result.

View attachment 180884View attachment 180885

That is a awesome bike Pete! Thanks for the idea, I like the munsen rings and learned something new.
On the bridging part, I also want to mount the fenders. A dual function of the sort. I don't mind drilling a hole in the frame though.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Hey guys, best wishes for 2022!

I have some slight updates:

• I decided to lengthen the (grey) rack/carrier with another rack. I cut them in half and they are being welded.
• Seat tube shortened and the seat mounted.
• To get a clue about the riding position (and seat tube length) I assembled the crank quick and dirty. 170mm cranks and pedals very close to the ground! Tires are not fully inflated, that will probably help.
• The fork is at the welding shop right now. Unfortunately I am not in the opportunity to weld it myself.
• And I made the wooden fender bending JIG with two 26 x 1 3/8 wheels. Taking a bit of springback in account. The JIG is almost done.

Pictures!

Don't know if I will use this chainring/sprocket, but good enough for the mockup!

I could not assemble the Odyssey Dynatron bearing set completely, I had to file away a bit of material on the one piece crank. The Dynatron sealed bearing set is very well made! Happy so far.

Exploring ideas in this stage.

This is the setup in its current condition. I will bend the Mahogany strips with a wide ratched strap.

The fender material is 7mm thick (0,2755 inch).

My plan is to put it in hot water for some hours and then bend it round the wheels in the bending setup.

Eventually do the same when laminating with glue: I will laminate two strips together.

Let me know if you question that method, I am quite new in this type of woodworking.

Thanks for watching!

++

Random share: A buddy of mine with a similar taste is building a cargo bicycle: He now finished lacing his front wheels with double drum brakes. He cut two hubs in pieces and welded them together.
He utilizes the same "bakfiets" style rims as me, only in black (very cool!!).

Another thing I get inspired by: Timmermans fietsen
His builds have a extremely high quality finish, absolutely love it!

But this build surpasses al his builds for me: A old "brake rod" bicycle with disc brakes. Disc brakes fully operated by levers and rods:

 

[Starnger]

Hey guys, best wishes for 2022!

I have some slight updates:

• I decided to lengthen the (grey) rack/carrier with another rack. I cut them in half and they are being welded.
• Seat tube shortened and the seat mounted.
• To get a clue about the riding position (and seat tube length) I assembled the crank quick and dirty. 170mm cranks and pedals very close to the ground! Tires are not fully inflated, that will probably help.
• The fork is at the welding shop right now. Unfortunately I am not in the opportunity to weld it myself.
• And I made the wooden fender bending JIG with two 26 x 1 3/8 wheels. Taking a bit of springback in account. The JIG is almost done.

Pictures!

Don't know if I will use this chainring/sprocket, but good enough for the mockup!

I could not assemble the Odyssey Dynatron bearing set completely, I had to file away a bit of material on the one piece crank. The Dynatron sealed bearing set is very well made! Happy so far.

Exploring ideas in this stage.

This is the setup in its current condition. I will bend the Mahogany strips with a wide ratched strap.

The fender material is 7mm thick (0,2755 inch).

My plan is to put it in hot water for some hours and then bend it round the wheels in the bending setup.

Eventually do the same when laminating with glue: I will laminate two strips together.

Let me know if you question that method, I am quite new in this type of woodworking.

Thanks for watching!

++

Random share: A buddy of mine with a similar taste is building a cargo bicycle: He now finished lacing his front wheels with double drum brakes. He cut two hubs in pieces and welded them together.
He utilizes the same "bakfiets" style rims as me, only in black (very cool!!).

Another thing I get inspired by: Timmermans fietsen
His builds have a extremely high quality finish, absolutely love it!

But this build surpasses al his builds for me: A old "brake rod" bicycle with disc brakes. Disc brakes fully operated by levers and rods:

Good stuff! That double drum of your friend is a killer! Such a bright idea!
Actually i was researching Marktplaats lately, looking for such rims as you run with my electric Firebolt build in mind, but i had no luck. How much would they cost normally and where do you source them? Some local bike shops? Or should i just keep my eye on Marktplaats?
Happy new year and good luck with your build!

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Good stuff! That double drum of your friend is a killer! Such a bright idea!
Actually i was researching Marktplaats lately, looking for such rims as you run with my electric Firebolt build in mind, but i had no luck. How much would they cost normally and where do you source them? Some local bike shops? Or should i just keep my eye on Marktplaats?
Happy new year and good luck with your build!

Difficult to find at Marktplaats, mostly on full "bakfiets" bikes or "transportfiets" but keep trying.

Another tip:
"Nostalgie Oirshot" website: the guys always have some in stock, old and new.

Or look at "bikestoremember.nl" . Also many US parts (Bendix red band hubs etcetera).

Let me know if I can pick something up or order if it helps for you.

 

[Starnger]

Difficult to find at Marktplaats, mostly on full "bakfiets" bikes or "transportfiets" but keep trying.

Another tip:
"Nostalgie Oirshot" website: the guys always have some in stock, old and new.

Or look at "bikestoremember.nl" . Also many US parts (Bendix red band hubs etcetera).

Let me know if I can pick something up or order if it helps for you.

Thanks! I didn't took a look at bikestoremember for a while! Didn't find any bendix hubs there though. But Nostalgie Oirshot is a complete surprise for me, thanks for showing it! So the prices are in a range about 30 - 40 euros for a rim depending on condition. Pretty okay considering there is not much to choose from talking about alternatives. If you somehow come across another good chromed set like yours - let me know please! We can discuss the price or exchange some nice parts instead

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Thanks! I didn't took a look at bikestoremember for a while! Didn't find any bendix hubs there though. But Nostalgie Oirshot is a complete surprise for me, thanks for showing it! So the prices are in a range about 30 - 40 euros for a rim depending on condition. Pretty okay considering there is not much to choose from talking about alternatives. If you somehow come across another good chromed set like yours - let me know please! We can discuss the price or exchange some nice parts instead

You are welcome!
Truth be told, I am pondering about the following thing:
Personally I really like the "boardtracker looks" with the painted rims more, so I am thinking about selling this set (excluding the tires) and building a new set of wheels for this build. Also because I like a front brake when riding with my kids

This sets specs and condition:

• Union sleek front hub (good condition, no crunchy bearings).
• Shimano CB-E110 rear hub: seen about 9000km, but regularly serviced. (good condition, feels and brakes smooth).
• Bakfiets rims 26x2 (26 inch 2inch or 52mm wide). Steel. Chrome in good condition, some little rust specs and scratches. The outside part of the rims (where the tire goes) has some surface rust, but no technical issues.

If interested, let me know (maybe via pm) which price feels right for you.
I just emailed Nostalgie Oirschot if they have two for me (to get an idea of the possibilities).

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Hi guys,

So the first time bending I saw too much 'springback'. Then I removed the tires from my bending JIG and tried that. I think I am almost there
This is a test fender, so I am guessing that laminating the two pieces with Titebond 3 has less springback than the soaking method.

I soaked the mahogany strips in mild temp water for 3 to 4 hours. Then 10 minutes in hot water before bending.

Pictures:

Bending with the tires off. To get a better radius.

This is the springback right now.

Pretty close! I guess Laminating these two strips will hold it into place more.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Hi RRB forum,

This project is awfully slow as far as I'm concerned.

So I ordered Titebond 3 and some extra clamps for the lamination.

I looked at the individual pieces: Shape and the direction of the slight warping. Then sanded the "to be glued" sections transversely.

I put some thin paper on the side of the JIG. So the fender is not glued onto my jig and I have to use a chisel to get it off

Pictures: (remember this is the first proto)

The two pieces glued! This is the little springback there was after removing the clamps and straps.

The radius is a bit too tight, because I expected more springback.

Due to the rims having edges and the wood being pressed on the rims, I get these wobbles. I can sand them off, but I rather not. Next time a different approach!

Bending it a bit back, see if it works.

Almost there! Nothing a fender bracket can't handle.


For the next lamination, I will put a material of 1cm (+/- a 1/2") between the JIG rims and the bended wood.
A material that is flatter and has more surface than the rims edges (anything better than that ) and can deal with a bit of pressure.

One idea is this: Flexible, bendable MDF.

But this is quite expensive!

If there are any more ideas, feel free to share them!

Thanks for watching and the patience

 

[curtisfox]

Next time use wax paper, also MDF is a lot heaver then what you are using. Just keep on and practice...........Curt

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Next time use wax paper, also MDF is a lot heaver then what you are using. Just keep on and practice...........Curt

Thank you for that tip Curt!
Maybe I misunderstood, but I am using MDF to fill the JIG, not to use for the fenders

Update:

So the fork is welded! A bit of filing and some minor alterations to be done on the fork.

I did a quick mockup:

With fender on the tire, to get a glimpse of the looks. I really like it!

After this I testfitted the lengthened carrier. I like the long looks, but the carrier was a tad bit too wide. Now it hits the saddle springs. I went to the garage and took a another brown leather saddle with smaller springs, which seems to fit well. Results:

This saddle leaves room for the carrier.

Mockup, everything will be adjusted and properly mounted later on. I like the line of the chainstay and the carrier legs!

Next thing to do:

• Fender bending/laminating JIG alterations before the next bends. Still waiting for emails from companies.
• Fabricate eyelets for: Carrier (have to level the carrier first). And for the chainguard. Drill two holes in the frame for the fenders.
• Weld the eyelets in place (I'll do that myself).

After this the aesthethic things will come: will I build a tank? Assembly for the lights and colours etcetera.

Thanks for watching!

 

[Starnger]

Thank you for that tip Curt!
Maybe I misunderstood, but I am using MDF to fill the JIG, not to use for the fenders

Update:

So the fork is welded! A bit of filing and some minor alterations to be done on the fork.

I did a quick mockup:

With fender on the tire, to get a glimpse of the looks. I really like it!

After this I testfitted the lengthened carrier. I like the long looks, but the carrier was a tad bit too wide. Now it hits the saddle springs. I went to the garage and took a another brown leather saddle with smaller springs, which seems to fit well. Results:

This saddle leaves room for the carrier.

Mockup, everything will be adjusted and properly mounted later on. I like the line of the chainstay and the carrier legs!

Next thing to do:

• Fender bending/laminating JIG alterations before the next bends. Still waiting for emails from companies.
• Fabricate eyelets for: Carrier (have to level the carrier first). And for the chainguard. Drill two holes in the frame for the fenders.
• Weld the eyelets in place (I'll do that myself).

After this the aesthethic things will come: will I build a tank? Assembly for the lights and colours etcetera.

Thanks for watching!

The wooden tank plate would look good together with the wooden fenders. Maybe with some burnt logo on?

 

[PeteMcP]

The wood fenders are a great idea - but I have to ask why feel the need to go to the trouble of fabricating them from scratch when wood fenders are available ready-made, over the counter? Just seems like adding to your workload un-necessarily. Big fan of your rigid girder forks on this build, and I enjoyed following your thread on their fabrication - but they too are available off the shelf from online sellers such as cnol motorsport on eBay and via the AliExpress site. I've purchased forks from these outlets for some of my builds and can attest to the quality. Please do not think this is in any way a criticism. It's obvious from your thread you enjoy problem-solving and building stuff. It's your build, so do it your way. Just my two penn'orth.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

I'll reply before El Barto get the chance.
Built vs bought: sometimes the process is the purpose. I could pay someone to build things, and they'd likely turn out much better, but that's not why I'm here. Making things with my hands feels good, and I learn stuff along the way.

 

[PeteMcP]

Oh I agree entirely Matt. I pretty much covered that explanation for Bart taking the route he did in my post. Not trying to rain on anyone's parade here. Just sayin....
As the offspring of a carpenter, my tip for making home brewed wood fenders easier to bend/form would be to use thinner laminations - say 6 x layers of 1mm luan veneer.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

The wooden tank plate would look good together with the wooden fenders. Maybe with some burnt logo on?

I was thinking of a wooden tank indeed. I don't know yet about the 'burnt' logo, I really aim for the "antique motorcycle" looks. But thank you for the idea, I will certainly consider it when this aesthetic choice arises.

The wood fenders are a great idea - but I have to ask why feel the need to go to the trouble of fabricating them from scratch when wood fenders are available ready-made, over the counter? Just seems like adding to your workload un-necessarily. Big fan of your rigid girder forks on this build, and I enjoyed following your thread on their fabrication - but they too are available off the shelf from online sellers such as cnol motorsport on eBay and via the AliExpress site. I've purchased forks from these outlets for some of my builds and can attest to the quality. Please do not think this is in any way a criticism. It's obvious from your thread you enjoy problem-solving and building stuff. It's your build, so do it your way. Just my two penn'orth.

I'll reply before El Barto get the chance.
Built vs bought: sometimes the process is the purpose. I could pay someone to build things, and they'd likely turn out much better, but that's not why I'm here. Making things with my hands feels good, and I learn stuff along the way.

Oh I agree entirely Matt. I pretty much covered that explanation for Bart taking the route he did in my post. Not trying to rain on anyone's parade here. Just sayin....
As the offspring of a carpenter, my tip for making home brewed wood fenders easier to bend/form would be to use thinner laminations - say 6 x layers of 1mm luan veneer.

Thanks @MattiThundrrr and @PeteMcP !

I do not consider it as criticism, you are welcome to ask critical questions Matti already covered it for the most part. I really enjoy making stuff myself and share my enthusiasm with this forum, friends, colleagues and anyone who is interested. I like that mutual sharing of knowledge, everyone has their own vision and way of experiencing things.
And then I like the challenge; I already know I can't fabricate as perfect like a professional can, and I am not all-knowing, but I can try with as limited tools as possible. To be able to fabricate a very nice piece with hacksaw and file
Sidenote: I can be quite stubborn in my choices.

Funny realisation just now:

• When I design for my job as a mechanical designer, I design from a very large perspective: List of requirements, fabrication, morphological overviews, in-house products and solutions.
• When I design @home for myself, I consider my abilities, tools at hand, materials that I have around my shed, my budget and the look that I am aiming for.

I could not find wooden fenders wider than 55 millimeters. My fenders are 70 millimeters wide. I really enjoy the trial and error process! Wood is such different from working with metal. I also did consider veneer! But could not find it within my budget (maybe I suck at searching). In my area they only sell large pieces of veneer of furniture that cost 300+ euro's. The Mahogany pieces I have now were about 1/4 of that price, but harder to get right.

Thanks guys!

 

[MattiThundrrr]

I can be quite stubborn in my choices

A stubborn Dutchman? Unheard of!
Matt VV, stubborn Dutchman

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Lamp options:

Both lamps are very old and worn. Not to be used with Carbide ever again. So not feeling bad to use them a bit different.
So I am thinking to put a chargeable battery in the space where normally water + carbide go.
And keep the cables on the inside.

The long lamp without the glass needs more work: A glass + frame, a bracket/suspension system etcetera.