Re: BonniRocket
OK, a little more information. Backing up to Friday, I went to pick up the last part needed for the shifter assembly from Jason after work. I wound up being there a bit longer than planned, as he hadn't welded it yet. Well, that and we were hanging out for a while. But by the time I got something to eat and got home, it was 9:00. Anyway, I assembled the shifter mount bracket, shown here with the bushings installed and the barrel adjuster for the brake cable in place.
The piece on the right is what I was waiting on. It's basically a shaft collar clamp with the lever arm previously machined out of a chunk of square stock with holes drilled in it. Also here is the pivot shaft for the brake that it attaches to. The shaft goes through the bushings, with the actuator lever outside on one end and the cable lever on the inside end. More on that later.
Then I decided to paint the inside of the tank halves and the fender with POR15 to keep them from rusting away more.
Since POR is sticky stuff and hard to remove (I still have it on my hands), its best not to handle the parts until dry. So I called it good for the day there.
Saturday, I spent most of the day working on the bike. I skipped going on the club ride because I thought it'd take up too much time. I assembled up the tank and put the left side in place. The left side has the brackets that snap onto the frame, which in this situation allows the right side to act as merely an access cover.
I ran into a snag with the cabling - Sturmey Archer prefinished off the brake cable, so I couldn't readily trim it to length or feed it through the adjuster or lever arms. I had to slot the lever arm to let me slide the cable into the keeper hole, and do the same where the barrel adjuster was supposed to be. That meant devising another way to keep the cable in place, because with out a cable casing stop, pulling the brake lever pulled the whole cable forward, case and all, and didn't pull on the cable itself. The shifter cable was somewhat less of a bother, at least at the tank end. I used a "noodle" from a V-brake to get the cable to turn rearward. It slipped right into the cable adjuster coming off of the shifter itself, allowing me to use it as designed. That was fortunate, because the shift cable doesn't have a hub-end adjuster like the 3-speed hubs do. More detail:
I wound up putting a nylon nut over the cable casing that had been slotted, then put a band-type hose clamp around that. The hose clamp squeezed the nut around the casing and effectively locked it onto the casing. This is right behind where it passes through the mount bracket, so that prevents the casing from sliding forward. I also found that using the brake lever tended to push the tank backwards, it's snap-in mount brackets could resist the reaction force on the brake cable. So, again, I found some band clamps and placed them around the lower top tube right behind the tank brackets, to give them something to stop against.
Anyway, here's the outside of the tank, showing the base of the quadrant where the brake and shifter levers attach:
And here's the other end of the brake cable, where attaches to the hub:
I'd show a picture of how the shifter cable attached, but it's pretty well hidden behind the dropouts. I had to muck about a bit with hooking up the cable on that end, because the instructions were a bit vague. But in the end, I was able to make it work and get it adjusted correctly.
OK, a little more information. Backing up to Friday, I went to pick up the last part needed for the shifter assembly from Jason after work. I wound up being there a bit longer than planned, as he hadn't welded it yet. Well, that and we were hanging out for a while. But by the time I got something to eat and got home, it was 9:00. Anyway, I assembled the shifter mount bracket, shown here with the bushings installed and the barrel adjuster for the brake cable in place.
The piece on the right is what I was waiting on. It's basically a shaft collar clamp with the lever arm previously machined out of a chunk of square stock with holes drilled in it. Also here is the pivot shaft for the brake that it attaches to. The shaft goes through the bushings, with the actuator lever outside on one end and the cable lever on the inside end. More on that later.
Then I decided to paint the inside of the tank halves and the fender with POR15 to keep them from rusting away more.
Since POR is sticky stuff and hard to remove (I still have it on my hands), its best not to handle the parts until dry. So I called it good for the day there.
Saturday, I spent most of the day working on the bike. I skipped going on the club ride because I thought it'd take up too much time. I assembled up the tank and put the left side in place. The left side has the brackets that snap onto the frame, which in this situation allows the right side to act as merely an access cover.
I ran into a snag with the cabling - Sturmey Archer prefinished off the brake cable, so I couldn't readily trim it to length or feed it through the adjuster or lever arms. I had to slot the lever arm to let me slide the cable into the keeper hole, and do the same where the barrel adjuster was supposed to be. That meant devising another way to keep the cable in place, because with out a cable casing stop, pulling the brake lever pulled the whole cable forward, case and all, and didn't pull on the cable itself. The shifter cable was somewhat less of a bother, at least at the tank end. I used a "noodle" from a V-brake to get the cable to turn rearward. It slipped right into the cable adjuster coming off of the shifter itself, allowing me to use it as designed. That was fortunate, because the shift cable doesn't have a hub-end adjuster like the 3-speed hubs do. More detail:
I wound up putting a nylon nut over the cable casing that had been slotted, then put a band-type hose clamp around that. The hose clamp squeezed the nut around the casing and effectively locked it onto the casing. This is right behind where it passes through the mount bracket, so that prevents the casing from sliding forward. I also found that using the brake lever tended to push the tank backwards, it's snap-in mount brackets could resist the reaction force on the brake cable. So, again, I found some band clamps and placed them around the lower top tube right behind the tank brackets, to give them something to stop against.
Anyway, here's the outside of the tank, showing the base of the quadrant where the brake and shifter levers attach:
And here's the other end of the brake cable, where attaches to the hub:
I'd show a picture of how the shifter cable attached, but it's pretty well hidden behind the dropouts. I had to muck about a bit with hooking up the cable on that end, because the instructions were a bit vague. But in the end, I was able to make it work and get it adjusted correctly.
