Chain woes

[nanac1212]

I am trying to put a chain on my Worksman Porto after finally getting a freewheel hub. Anyway heres my problem. Using a nesr new chain the first pic is too short. The other way is WAY too long. Theres no other way that I can figure out. Should I go buy a new chain and start over?

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[RustySprockets]

I've never worked on a Porto, but have the Adaptables. I find it difficult to believe there is no provision for setting chain tension. Many trikes do so by shifting the entire rear axle assembly fore & aft--others use port & starboard pillow blocks. Check again...I'm willing to bet the adjustment is there, just not obvious.

Worst case, you could try using one of these half-links to get in the ball park. I fear that a new, longer chain will just end up being too long...like the fix you've already tried.

 

[nanac1212]

To better understand heres another pic. This is THE ONLY way that the chain is the proper length and allow thevidler sprocket to tighten chain. Anything else is too long or too tight but as you can see fastening together here aint happening. No way no how.



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[nanac1212]

Rusty that half link deal may work. This bike has an idler sprocket that adjusts the chain tension once a proper length chain can be fashioned.

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[DJ Bill]

Sure looks like a half link would fit in the space you have the master link at...Push out the pin above the link on the left, reattach it to the narrow end of the half link in stead of the extra chain, and push the half link pin in with the link on the right inside it.

Or am I missing something?? I got a half link from my LBS but I had to call around to find one who actually stocked one.

 

[RustySprockets]

I just checked out a Port-o-Trike video and saw how the idler pulley hangs from the drive-side chainstay. Can you not loosen that, install the chain, then adjust the idler for proper tension? That's the way it's supposed to work. Get a ruler and measure your chain for stretch, too. Twelve links should land right on the one foot mark pin-to-pin. Longer than that, and your chain is stretched.

 

[RustySprockets]

Nanac, are you routing the chain above the idler pulley or below it? It's supposed to go above. Doing otherwise might account for the problem you're having.

 

[nanac1212]

The first pic I posted is a new chain. Using the master link its very tight. If I go get the half link and add it I think all should be fine. Will call my LBS tomo. Didnt know they made half links.

I have had 2 older Worksman Trifectas. Same bike as a Porto only black. They were one speed freewheels and had no idler cog to adjust chain at all. The chains were so floppy you could lift them right off but those bikes ran and ran flawlessly. I love these little bikes they ride great.

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[nanac1212]

I ended up getting a half link on Ebay. Called a couple of bike shops who had no clue what I wanted.

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[RustySprockets]

Let us know how it turns out. If the fix works for you, it will work for others.

Still, there is something bizarre going on here if a brand-new 1/2 x 1/8 chain doesn't snuggle right into the limits of the adjuster. Again, just to be clear, you're lifting the chain UP with the idler gear, not pressing DOWNWARD on it, correct? The idler needs to be outside the loop created by the chain.

 

[nanac1212]

Putting chain on TOP of idler. The bike was a 3spd but the hub was bad so I converted to a freewheel. My setup would be exactly as a one speed from the factory. I bet the factory chain on a one speed trike had a half link too.

Heres an older one I had. Note it has NO provisions for chain adjustment at all. I rode it a million miles with that saggy chain. Never attempted to jump off.



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[Bicycle808]

I assembled one of these, new and in the box. I had a lot of trouble with the idler and the chain tension, which was unexpected. Ultimately, i ended up changing front and rear sprockets, b/c we needed to drop the primary ratio for the athlete anyway, and the combo i chose (using stuff from my parts bin) happened to give the right ratio, as well as allowing the idler to achieve proper tension.

The trike is well-designed overall, but needs a bit more adjustment in the idler.

 

[nanac1212]

Factory gearing is 36/20 .I swap out the crank for one from a mtn bike with 7 1/2 in arms and they ride much nicer. That idler cog is cheesy but with a rigid frame its the only way to adjust. Its slotted a good bit but takes little slack out of the chain. Hers another one I paid 25.00 for this spring.

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[nanac1212]

UPDATE Dont know how to count exact links but using a half link and a master link the completed proper chain has 95 pins. Bike is set up factoryb36 front and 20t freewheel chain properly routed OVER idler cog. Any one pin more or less and chain will not work.

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[RustySprockets]

What?! I'm very dubious about the number of pins making any kind of difference. The length just needs to be within the limits of the adjuster. BTW, you don't use the master link and the half-link together, you substitute one for the other.

The half-link should fit here...right where you have the master link positioned.
Male on one end, female on the other.

 

[nanac1212]

The complete chain has 95 pins. (47 1/2 links?) 94 pins VERY tight 96 pins way too loose to adjust. I have built plenty of bike chains but this has to be the finickiest one ever.

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[RustySprockets]

Just to define terms, this diagram is considered one full link--two outer plates, two inner plates, two pins, and two rollers. For our purposes, it is one-inch in length.

A master link or a half-link are only half the length of a standard link. The master link has only outer plates...the half-link has bent plates that can connect outer on one end, inner on the other.

 

[Bicycle808]

I gotta say, i'd still use a master link if i were running a half-link, b/c you still might wanna break the chain from time to time, and that's what the master link is for....

 

[deorman]

I gotta say, i'd still use a master link if i were running a half-link, b/c you still might wanna break the chain from time to time, and that's what the master link is for....

Agreed. Links that have never been pushed apart are less susceptible to corrosion, wear, and displacement.

 

[nanac1212]

The half link cost me 3.75 free shipping compared to the pack of 10 master links I bought for 1.53 free shipping. This is the first time I have ever encountered using a half link.

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