Coaster brake hub is behaving like a fixed gear

[mornview]

I need help diagnosing a problem with a Shimano E-110 coaster brake hub; I've never seen anything like this before and I'm hoping someone else has encountered it.

I have a factory built wheel that I bought before I could lace wheels myself; it's one of those Shimano E-110's laced to a Wheelmaster rim. Last winter I tried converting a mountain bike to single speed and threw the wheel on there. I noticed that as I pushed the bike forward, the crank arms (three piece crank) moved with the wheel. I figured it was something due to my inexperience attempting such a conversion and haven't touched the wheel since.

The rear wheel on my wife's winter bike needs to be trued a bit, so I thought I'd throw the Shimano E-110 wheel on there as a temporary replacement. Same result - it turns the crank arms (one piece cranks) around as you push the bike forward. I flipped the bike upside down, cranked the pedals a few times and let the wheel coast a bit - as it coasts, the crank arms seem like they're fighting some kind of tension; they fidget back and forth.

I know the cones are adjusted properly; when the wheel isn't on a bike it seems to spin fine (but you can only spin it so fast by hand). I have already cleaned it out, lubricated everything, and repacked it just like I have successfully done on so many similar hubs (KT's, Shimano D-Type's, etc.). I just can't figure out what's going on. Any ideas would be welcomed. Thanks!

 

[Kranzorb]

sounds like some bad juju to me... have you tried rubbing the hub shell with chicken blood? if that doesn't work, then your obviously paying for something you've done wrong in a past life and theres nothing you can do about it

 

[deorman]

Cone clutch unit/hub shell interface and/or drive side dust cover sticking can be caused by damaged drive side inner bearing or cage, dust cap, or positioning/anti reversion clip (that little sheet metal doo-dad). However, with a new wheel that you have inspected, my guess is that the spring and/or clip in your cone clutch is just tight, and mileage (or gentle tweaking) will sort out the problem. Good luck.

 

[deorman]

Also, make sure your brake shoes aren't reversed and that your ju ju is good.

 

[Bicycle808]

I'd guess that you got the hub adjusted too tightly, causing some binding. Before you tear it all the way down, just loosen the brake side up a little bit and see if it removes the problem. If son, you nailed the problem.... just adjust the hub properly, then tighten the jam-nuts down tight....but keep the bearings free. Dig?

 

[mornview]

I think Deorman nailed it. It's definitely not the cones being too tight, but I've had a feeling it's something with the clutch. I'll look into it a bit more.

Quick question about the clutch spring - I've read in a few sources that the clutch spring can be removed from the clutch for better cleaning when overhauling a hub. I don't want to ruin anything in the process ... do you simply pull the spring out and then press it back in once you've cleaned it? Or does grease hold it in place?

 

[ozzmonaut]

The wide end of the spring kind of snaps into place. It's a pretty tight fit, and it is sometimes difficult to know for sure that it is fully seated. But no grease is neccessary to hold it. Just make sure that is IS fully seated