Crank Play

[wheelhorseman]

I picked up this nice Murray built Free Spirit cruiser the other day. Its rides really good except for one aggrevating issue. Whenever you stop pedalling and restart the crank takes almost a full revolution before it catches again. Any advice on adjusting something??

Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk

 

[deorman]

 

[wheelhorseman]

That doesnt help me.

Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk

 

[Fv2]

Westports are famous for the same thing, I've rebuilt the rear hub three times and it's tolerable now. Best bet is just get a new hub or wheel.

 

[Bicycle808]

That's a problem with the hub, not the crank. Best bet is go tear down the hub, inspect everything, and see what's up. Engagement problems vary depending on the hub's design, but generally the hubshell might be damages where the clutch engages the shell, or the clutch itself is work out where it engages the shell. In the latter case, you might just need the one part; in the former case, best bet is a new rear wheel or just lace a fresh coaster hub into the current wheel. If there's no obvious damage or excessive wear, you might want to just repack the hub and see if that sures the situation.

What band/model of hub is it?

 

[Bicycle808]

PS- the part you want to look at corresponds to the #9 piece in deorman's diagram; that's the clutch cone. The knurled edge on the far right of the piece is where you'd look for damage, as well as the interior of the hubshell at the far right (drive) side. If your hub is a Bendix singlspeed, a Shimano or basically any other Asian-made coaster, the part will look a lot like that one. Other older designs may look different, but will work similarly. It'll be easier for us to trouble shoot it if you let us know what hub you got.

 

[wheelhorseman]

It rides and works smooth as silk. If jts not something easily adjustable I may leave alone. I can live with it no more than it will be ridden .
I will post whst hub it has tomo.
Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk

 

[Duchess]

With the Velosteel, they were originally designed to use oil, not grease. When I rebuilt mine, I used grease and it did what you described. Back apart, I greased only the bearings and used oil for the rest. Fixed. No issue with leaking oil, either—it got no farther than the outer bearing seal where it's easily cleaned up.

 

[deorman]

Sorry about the wordless post. My old laptop just died from a keyboard short. I was going to say check the clutch interface for wear and/or the little spring metal do-dad that's supposed to allow the clutch to only slip in one direction. It doesn't appear in the diagram, but is part of #9.