Different way to remove rusted fasteners.

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This probably sounds completely crazy and stupid, but you may want to try it. I saw it on an old truck website, and it has worked for me several times. If you try it, take it easy, do not force things and if it still doesn't work, you will not be out anything for trying.

There are many products that you can use, anything from Coca-Cola to WD-40 and PB Blaster. The product that I use is safe, non-toxic, easy to clean-up and free... I use water. Water is the universal solvent and it is great at penetrating rust. I find that it works best when it is just rust and before you use any petroleum based products. Those products repel water and it won't be able penetrate at all.

I have an early '70s Schwinn Typhoon that I've had for a while. I have tried to remove the stem and handle bars off of it, but I haven't had any luck. I loosened the stem bolt and I have whacked it with a hammer trying to break the wedge free. I tried twisting the stem too, but I have had no luck.

Today, I decided that I wanted to remove the front fender. When I put a socket on the fastener holding it onto the fork, I couldn't get it to budge. I applied some pressure, but I didn't go crazy because I have broken many a fasteners in my time. I got a cup of water and I went back to my bike. I had the bike upside down, so I filled up the fender with water so that the fastener was submerged.

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It is hard to see the fastener with the water, so I set my socket on it. I also set my can of WD-40 nearby so that it could watch and learn.

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I let it soak while I opened up the fork dropouts with the grinder so that I could try some wheels with a larger axel on the bike. It only took a couple of minutes to finish the job with the grinder. As soon as I was done, I started on the fastener again. It would move slightly, so I would carefully move it back and forth. Each time I could feel it get easier and easier and the fastener would move farther and farther as the water would penetrate deeper. I drained the excess water back into the cup. After a mintue or two, I had the fastener out.

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Once that I had the fastener out and the fender off, I had access to the bottom of the headset. I poured some water into the hole, let it sit for a minute or two and then I fliped the bike back over.

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I tapped the stem bolt several times with the hammer and this time I could feel the stem wedge break loose. I twisted the handlebars and was able to break them free. I moved them back and forth while pulling up and I was able to get the stem and handlebars off.

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I tried to get the top nut on the headset off, but it is stuck too. Later I'm going to soak it with water too so that I can get it off.

It may sound crazy, but it worked very slick for me today, it penetrated quickly and I didn't break anything. If you have clean but rusted threads, give it a shot as it may work and you won't be out anything if it doesn't.
 
Great idea! I'm gonna try it next time I have something stuck. Alot cheaper than WD or PB too! 8)
 
And sometimes you are just out of luck.........
I just finished up on a 'Made in England' sidestand that mounts as is typical, and the bolt broke off. Its probably been on that 'indifferently cared for' 1966 (by the SA hub date) Triumph Sports since new.
Soaked it for about a month, drilled for an easy out, heated it and..........no go. This one required the complete drill out/retap. Steel and aluminum can be such a .........troublesome thing.
 

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