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How did I not see this till just now? Was it a late entry?

Anywayyyyy....this is awesome as it sits HERE:

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Annnnddd....the perfect opportunity to try out the Col Mustard method! First I'd run a thin tape strip of blue tape or masking tape to cover the white pinstripe on the front fender. Then, spread mustard over the already perfect rust spots that show on the fender. The thicker the mustard, the more it will show the rust. Then do an overspray, from about 2'-3' away so it covers lightly, with a flat black. Like a stove black or something. You can always add a little sheen with a boiled linseed or WD 40 coating after the fact.
Then after the paint sets for maybe 15 mins, take your garden hose and spray off the fender and watch your RaT-ina appear as the mustard washes away! Peel off your pinstripe tape, and viola' !
Thanks OJ! Yeah, I'm a late starter on this one. I thought about calling this one the Page Two RoadSlacker, but I like Doom Slug better. I've been gathering parts since last summer, finally had time to begin the project yesterday.

I was planning to try the mustard patina technique on the fenders to kind of blend them in. Taping off the pins is a great idea. I wasn't sure how I was going to preserve those but the tape was just too obvious I guess. I want to have bits of the red show here and there on the front fender. And I'm thinking of doing the same on the rear to add just a smidge of red oxide primer to kind of tie it in. It doesn't necessarily need it though. But if I find another fender to weld onto it to stretch it around further I'll probably have to do something. Definitely planning a coat of linseed oil. I thought I was going to have to crustify the handlebars the way you did but I think these work fine. The chrome is old and a little subdued. I'm most likely going to be running new tires so I might need to age them a bit.
By the way, I love the build name
I'm kinda feelin' this right now. Maybe I won't stretch it.

I think I like it better as a nonstretch, but don't toss the idea out just yet.

Anywayyyyy....this is awesome as it sits HERE:

I don't think it needs the stretch, you're already getting some sick hotrod vibes as it is, maybe just some black paint for that front fender

no stretch needed. looks dope as is.

Thanks guys! Looks like we're starting to build a little consensus here. I'm still enjoying the un-stretched version right now but there are more mockups to come.
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No need to get personal 😢

It was meant with affection. Now I'm definitely buying that Cranbrook that's for sale here in town for $10. :rofl:
It’s on. And this thing is sweet let me tell you. I think it would be fun to do a Cranbrook challenge sometime. See how wild the builds can get.

I didn’t get much done on Doom Slug today but I did procure some supplies.
Sounds like a Build Challenge in the making! Here's a name consideration for if it happens. It would include Huffy models, a girl's bike, and other accoutrements.

We could call it "HR Huff n' Puff n' Stuff"
Sounds like a Build Challenge in the making! Here's a name consideration for if it happens. It would include Huffy models, a girl's bike, and other accoutrements.

We could call it "HR Huff n' Puff n' Stuff"
Love it! This will be fun. :113:
I’m just researching some options here, thinking about converting this old S2 to skip tooth. I’ve never disassembled a coaster hub before. Is there a technique for getting the cog off? I’ve removed the retaining nuts, they loosen clockwise. I think the cog loosens counter clockwise, is that right? Also, does anyone happen to know if the cogs will work from a JC Higgins to a Bendix?
After some research it seems that swapping the cogs is not going to be easy or practical and may not fit. So it would be easier to build the Higgins hub into the S2 wheel. If I’m building a wheel then I would like more than 1 gear. I spent 40 minutes locating my Ichi skip tooth adapter cog.

That would work good on my Raleigh SA 3 speed hub but I don’t want a rim brake. I could buy a Nexus 3 speed coaster wheel for $125 brand new but I’d rather not. I do need gears for the hills around here if I’m going to actually ride this thing. Back to plan A.
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My Sturmey Archer 5 speed drum hub was still jammed up and had the freewheel remover stuck in it.

I had installed the tool with the axle nut holding it in place. With the drum in the vice this seemed to break the freewheel loose but it wouldn’t come free. It was spinning the axle nuts and loosening up the whole axle assembly. And I couldn’t get the axle nut holding the tool to release. So today I tried it with an impact and a wrench to hold the tool and another to hold the opposite axle nut.

That got the jammed axle nut loose right away and the whole works came apart. @Wildcat I’m not sure but this may help with your hub too.

I think I want to build it into this S2 rim.

It’s a 36 hole hub. I’ve never ordered spokes before. I need to take all the measurements. I think Park Tool has a video on that. Or someone does. One issue I have is the axle seems to be off center. Should I have an equal amount of threads sticking out past each inner axle nut?

Is anyone familiar with this hub?

Also, where is a good place to order spokes from? There are cheap spokes on Amazon but I’ve read that they have issues, like not being quite the correct length or the nipples stripping too easily.