ELGIN- B-Bomb

[dirtywater]

Great Struts!!

 

[crackedpiston]

Hey buds, just wondering, is that a light on the front or one of those electric horns you can buy??? Please excuse my ignorance if it's an obvious answer! :roll:

 

[user 135]

Hey buds, just wondering, is that a light on the front or one of those electric horns you can buy??? Please excuse my ignorance if it's an obvious answer! :roll:

It is a horn operated by a D cell battery.

Great Struts!!

I could not decide on a color so I just clear coated them.

 

[TheDuke]

Very nice Cman! 8)

 

[Galtbacken]

A royal Purple may be in order.

Good choice, that would look nice!

 

[user 135]

A royal Purple may be in order.

Good choice, that would look nice!

Now I just need to find someone to do it.

I have ridden this to work the last couple of days. Great ride. The chain is stretched when I measure 12 full links I am about 1/8" over. I can feel it pedaling but not much I can do. Does someone know if the New Departure hub tends to have a lot of free spin after applying the brakes. I go to pedal forward and sometimes it is a half a revolution on the cranks before the hub engages.

 

[deorman]

You may be short a few clutch plates. There should be 10 or 12 pairs at least to keep the bendix from disengaging. If this is your problem, I can send you a few.

 

[deorman]

You may be short a few clutch plates. There should be 10 or 12 pairs at least to keep the bendix from disengaging. If this is your problem, I can send you a few.

There is also a small loop of spring metal between the drive cone and pressure plate that can become loose with wear, sometimes you can squeeze it together as long as it's not broken. It rides on the pressure plate and sticks through a slot in the drive cone, keeping it from just rotating when the brake disengages.

 

[deorman]

The anti-rotation spring is most likely the problem, I just forgot about it at first.

 

[deorman]

Just curious if you checked that anti-rotation spring/tab? These were very good for their time, if all parts are in place and within tolerance. Also use light oil NOT grease on the plates.

 

[user 135]

I havent' had the chance to look at it. I will add a little oil as I overlooked that when I got the wheels. Are these hubs much more difficult than a new coasterbrake to take apart.

 

[deorman]

Not really. The sprockets are kind of a pain, but as far as the internals, instead of cones spreading cookies, it's got a tiny multi-plate clutch that slides right out the stabilizer side.(No need to mess with the sprock, except to change it)

 

[Slick Rick]

The biggest pain on these hubs is getting the disc tabs aligned so that they will slide into the hub shell via the splines they engage.It has been easier when I have used a "staight eddge" of some kind to pre align them. But I have never been able to insert the mechanism on the first attempt either, so a little patience helps too. :wink: And as stated, oil on the discs is way better than grease. Both work but grease tends to slow the "grab" somewhat.Bicycle bones on E-bay sells an after market disc and spring set for these hubs from time to time. I purchased one and have never regretted it! It made a huge difference in the operation and overall "tightness" of the hub. Later & PEACE!!!!! :mrgreen:

 

[deorman]

A few more details; the first plate on the bendix side is indexed to the axle so it doesn't eat the pressure plate
the anti- rotation spring must be turned so that braking tightens it and pedalling forward loosens it. You can check this while apart.
the pressure plate indexes on the axle-don't use too many plates. Not enough, the spring can escape the drive cone and be damaged.

All this will be clear enough once you actually see the pieces.viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1162#p9426