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Granth said:
you have yourself a cool little truck there. i've always been a sucker for brevada grills. the only reason my truck is how it is, is because i had the front bagged, tried to Z the frame and twisted everything like a pretzel when i had an offer to have it fully welded by a shop. that left me taking out a loan to have it stock floored and i haven't really driven it since. it's been ~1.5 years since it's been full time on the road. hoping to get it back to that point in just a week or two.

Thanks! I'm a big fan of the Bravada front also, especially in black,I think it has kind of a sinister look to it. The funny part is that I also own an actual Bravada too, my wife's truck, and it's black too... Lol, yeah we have matching cars. Her truck however is actually lifted about an inch up front to level it out and has slightly oversized tires.

But wow, that's rough, I'm sorry to hear about all the trouble your truck has given you I hope you can get it all worked out because it looks like a blast to roll around in. I have always wanted one of those trucks. I just love the super utilitarian look they have not to mention they just look so awesome laid flat on the ground like yours.

stretch said:
hey loki, how low did you go on your truck?

After much experimentation I finally setteled on a 3" front and 5" rear drop. That basically leveled it out front to rear and left just enough ground clearance to make it over speedbumps without too much drama. Honestly I would love to just slam it to the ground but I still have to drive it everyday so I can't go too crazy with it.
 
about how long are you guys cutting your bottom tubes at? i'm thinking the bike should be ~8 feet but wanting to see what is typical for these burritos
 
worked on it for a while tonight and ended up making no progress. i thought i could straighten the downtube out but it looks like it wont happen. I'm on plan b right now where the bottom tube will mount a bit higher than I originally wanted and will have a bit of a rake to the back of the bike. it will work, but it's not what i wanted.
 
Granth said:
about how long are you guys cutting your bottom tubes at? i'm thinking the bike should be ~8 feet but wanting to see what is typical for these burritos
mine has a bottom tube of about 3 1/2 feet, maybe 4. if you get too long, it looks goofy. just lay it out with the front and back mocked up, and see what looks good, but also what fits. dont wanna be all cramped up. :wink:
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After much experimentation I finally setteled on a 3" front and 5" rear drop. That basically leveled it out front to rear and left just enough ground clearance to make it over speedbumps without too much drama. Honestly I would love to just slam it to the ground but I still have to drive it everyday so I can't go too crazy with it.
i was thinking 3" front and 4" back, would that still be pretty level?
 
i'm 5'10" and build all my rides for my comfort. (i ride em a lot)
each black or white square is 6" and most of my geometry is the same from bike to bike.
bout 2'6" from seat clamp to bottom bracket (if the seat and crank where sitting on the ground, in position)
not much else matters for length, as long as you have long enough bars and chain. :)

the trike is 7'6" wheel to wheel. 8' is a big bike. :)
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looking forward to seeing another burritto on the road. :lol:

i gotta get around to making a classic burritto.
 
here's an update that may be worth something. this thing is LOOONG! haha, I love it.

I got the rear stays on temp and will brace them tomorrow. You can at least see the shape of the bike now.
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gussets will come off the seat tube, ride on the little tail end of the bottom tube, and support the rear stays.
 
looks like quite a beast! :lol: i love how you building it with everything still attached, including the cardboard disk in the front wheel.
 
haha, yah that's me trying to build it quick and move on to another one. I plan on getting some of that slider track and building a jig for the next one.
 
jigs might help, but i dont have time or money to build one. so i wrestle with parts held up with bricks, jackstands and 2x4s till i can zap them in place. :roll:
 
hahaha, exactly my point. The gaps were HORRIBLE on this bike cuz I couldn't really measure much with just 2 hands. A fixture is needed IMO as I don't have flat work space.
 
yeah that would help. i have a workbench i build mine on, and all i have are my eyes and a line drawn to keep everything in center.
 
Now thats a LOWRIDER :lol: :lol:
Granth said:
You get me goin on the truck and I won't stop!

It's a 1985 Toyota, full frame out of 2x3 from the firewall back to the bumper. It's 4 linked in the rear with the bags on the lower bars. Floor isn't cut yet, but it will lay mid rocker when it's done on the wheels it has.

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I probably should have made the plates a bit larger, but it holds so i'm not too worried. I plan on getting the BB mounted tomorrow, so I can start riding this. I have a feeling it's only going to go straight, but I knew nothing of bikes when I started and have gotten a bit more understanding on the geometry side of things so I will be more prepared on my next build.
 
Can anyone give me some tips on making the gears work again on this bike? If I can't for whatever reason, is there a way to only use one sprocket front and rear out of each pack of them? Would like this thing easy to pedal, but not have too low of a top speed.
 
what exactly do ya need to know?
mount the front and rear derailer and you should have all the gears (might need a chain tensioner/guide mounted below the seat)

that being said, you could loose one or both derailers, and permanently use 2 sprockets.

if it where mine i'd source a 3 speed internal hub for the rear wheel (or complete 3speed wheel)

if it where mine (using what you have) i'd loose the front derailer, mount a guide below the seat, and only use the rear derailer/cassette.

an old skate wheel with a groove (did mine with a chainsaw file/ wheel chucked in a drill -but some wheels already have the groove) or a pair of rollerblade wheels make for fantastic chain guides.(rear derailers also work-the shift mech-one sprocket for each side of the chain)
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this way only the area of the chain behind the seat will move side to side when changing gears.
most important, you can move the chain out of the way of your frame. (chain on top or below the guide)
i'd probably mount 2 if your gonna use the rear derailer. also i'd make the groove wide eought for 2 chains (so it has a little play when shifting gears.
 
Thats true :lol: :lol: :lol:
stretch said:
SCHWINNRAY69 said:
Now thats a LOWRIDER :lol: :lol:
naw thats a mini truck gone scrapin'. :wink: lowriders are shinier.
 

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