Fisch's 20inches of Awesome! 7/9 I'm a NY Times best seller!

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Name to come. (I figure the bike will name itself as I go.) What better reason to finish I project floating in my head than the epic RRBBO! I've been into muscle-bikes and now verging into ol skool BMX, so I thought I'd try to combine the two into a concept of making the earliest looking BMX I can. As if BMX were happening in the 50's with tank bikes.

I'll start with this 50's Stelber 20" tank bike. I love the Stelbers. If you have never seen them, check out the frame. Unique to them as far as I know. They made a 24" with this frame too (wish I had one!) I read somewhere that the geometry let them sell it to the 26" crowd even though it was a 24. Just by raising the seat I guess.

Here it is as bought in a lot of 5 bikes for $25! (Best score ever.)
IMG_1236.jpg


This was an early concept of it, but everytime I try to use these forks on a build, I get rid of them. Too modern or cheaply made or something.
PigBike.jpg


Here is where I am at with my spare parts as of today. Nothing even bolted yet. Disc brake front rim. Some sweet Demolition Momentum tan walls for the fatness 20X2.35. the seatpost is from a 1950's mixer, which will probably not work out. Looks cool though!
IMG_2073.jpg


So I'd like to try to make a custom Springer. As if this were the earliest MX bike. Which may be my downfall, but I can always make it a truss if I run out of time.
IMG_2074.jpg


Here's my Sears Screamer sprung sissy to use for inspiration.
IMG_2075.jpg


I have a few challenges ahead. One that the seattube is for a wimpy little kid seatpost. Hoping I can just drill that mamma out. Maybe even retaining the the set screw?
IMG_1240.jpg


Second, the bottom bracket is for pressed bearing little kid cranks. That won't do. It is an odd size though at 35mm. Bigger than english (and not threaded) and smaller than American by a mile. Do you guys think I could get sealed spanish BMX bearings in there? Spanish are 37mm, so two mm bigger than the shell.
IMG_2071.jpg


The studious among you may have noticed what is special about that rear hub? It is dual drive with a sprocket on both sides. It is for an e-bike. Now don't get too excited. I have a lot on my plate before I start thinking about E-power. But if there is time at the end... this frame would be sweet with that little motor centered in that loop!
IMG_2076.jpg

Turns out two batteries fit perfectly in the lunchbox on the rear rack! (Which will be level naturally.)



Here is a mock-up with a 26" truss fork. But I am not sure if I want to go that long.
468663_3183259193642_1630597540_2764829_1468454928_o.jpg


Anyway, I failed to finish last year, but for those who didn't see it, here was the Svelte Spider. It is donating the fork to this build so far.
IMG_6077.jpg

IMG_6079.jpg


I look forward to more of the inspiration I am already getting from you guys!! RRB rules.
 
Re: Fisch's (unnamed) 20-inches of Awesome!

Fisch said:
Here is where I am at with my spare parts as of today. Nothing even bolted yet. Disc brake front rim. Some sweet Demolition Momentum tan walls for the fatness 20X2.35. the seatpost is from a 1950's mixer, which will probably not work out. Looks cool though!
IMG_2073.jpg
I like the looks of this set up here. get everything bolted together finish that springer you're working on, give it some ratty grips and patina that rear rack and you'll have a winner. I dig it the way it is! Just my .02.
 
Re: Fisch's (unnamed) 20-inches of Awesome!

So many mock-up ideas, I don't know what to comment on. Looks like you have a nice pile of parts to grab from. Have fun and for the love of Steve, FINISH THIS ONE!

Why not cut an english BB off a bike and slide the whole thing into the shell on that bike?
 
Re: Fisch's (unnamed) 20-inches of Awesome!

yoothgeye said:
So many mock-up ideas, I don't know what to comment on. Looks like you have a nice pile of parts to grab from. Have fun and for the love of Steve, FINISH THIS ONE!

Why not cut an english BB off a bike and slide the whole thing into the shell on that bike?

That is a swell idea, you got me excited enough that I had to go measure. Looks like the standard English Raleigh version is 45mm OD outer shell. I measured a mountain bike one and that too was a little over 40mm I think. So we are 5-10mm too wide to slide in. That said, if I slit the Stelber BB along the bottom I might be able to force one in there. Then have the gap welded along the bottom.

Not a bad thought at all. I will have to weigh it against the expense of modern BMX cranks and the pain of having to jam 37mm bearing in a 35mm shell.

Thanks Yoothgeye! And thanks for taking an interest in so many threads. The encouragement helps folks get out there and make progress.
 
Re: Fisch's (unnamed) 20-inches of Awesome!

I know you are going for a slick BMX look, but if you do cut the shell and need it welded back, why not have tabs welded on it like an integrated seat post clamp, then you could put 2 bolts down there to cinch the BB in place. It would sure look cool.
 
Re: Fisch's (unnamed) 20-inches of Awesome!

You might be able to turn down a set of sealed bearings 2 mm, but that might be tough as they are hardened and not super thick to begin with. You might find that it would be tough to cut them without distorting the heck out of them.
Another alternative might be to epoxy a complete Euro bb in there. It should be just a hair smaller than the ID of your bb, so it should work. That would give you the option of running old school square taper cranks too, instead of Profile type cranks.
 
Re: Fisch's (unnamed) 20-inches of Awesome!

someguy83 said:
I like the looks of this set up here. get everything bolted together finish that springer you're working on, give it some ratty grips and patina that rear rack and you'll have a winner. I dig it the way it is! Just my .02.

Thanks Someguy! There is a lot of stuff happening that doesn't fit yet, things need to be stretched, like the fork to clear the disc brake. I will have to integrate the disc brake mount into the bracket I design to go between the fork and the rods. The seat post is held by gravity at the moment, nothing to even attach it to. But that is the fun of it!

For the final look, I am thinking to keep the rust for now. Maybe some bitchin pinstriping on the tank.

Springer sketching. I'd love to keep the loop up top to mount a light within. Almost monarkish.
StelberSpringerSketch.jpg


Appreciate it dude!

yoothgeye I like the way you think. I could probably cut half the bb right off along the bottom and cinch the english BB in therewith two bolts. As long as the bolts are in far enough and short enough to clear the spindle and bearings. Something like this.
BBadapter.jpg


BMXerpete- very nice thinking as well. If I can avoid welding, that'd be swell! (Don't own a welder) You are right, the bearing cup (the part that screws in) of the english crank is like a mm too small to fit in the current (unthreaded) shell, so it slides around. I like the idea of square taper for the look I am chasing. Heck the Yamaha moto-bike has cottered cranks! You guys make me think I might just figure the biggest hurdle out!
 
Re: Fisch's (unnamed) 20-inches of Awesome!

Your idea is perfect, cut the majority of the shell out and bolt your chosen BB in place. Simple, clean.
 
Re: Fisch's (unnamed) 20-inches of Awesome!

yoothgeye said:
Your idea is perfect, cut the majority of the shell out and bolt your chosen BB in place. Simple, clean.


You lead me there! My worry is whether it could stand up to me standing up and bearing down on those pedals! I have to ride this thing! Some epoxy and some grade 8 hardware might do it though. Could always weld the same concept I guess.
 
Re: Fisch's (unnamed) 20-inches of Awesome!

I think it will hold up, grade 8 allen bolts or the pan head allen bolts that you can find all over bikes.
 
Re: Fisch's (unnamed) 20-inches of Awesome!

bmxerpete said:
Another alternative might be to epoxy a complete Euro bb in there. It should be just a hair smaller than the ID of your bb, so it should work. That would give you the option of running old school square taper cranks too, instead of Profile type cranks.

Is this what you meant BMXerpete? Epoxying one of these in there just might be the easiest and quickest solution. Non serviceable. But maybe it could be knocked out with a BFH if the need to replace it arrived.The mountain bike english style beringcup is literally like 1 MM to small for the current bb. So a thin layer of epoxy would fill it easy. Then if I am getting real crafty, a couple of set screws through the bb shell would be pretty slick insurance.

Shimanobb.jpg
 
Re: Fisch's (unnamed) 20-inches of Awesome!

Put at least one set screw to hold it in alignment while the glue is setting. that way, you can use a slow setting epoxy. This is a really cool, really tiny bike.
 
Re: Fisch's (unnamed) 20-inches of Awesome!

Glad to see you're in, your build last year was fun to watch.



Also, never EVER google "20 inches of Awesome" :shock: :shock: :shock:
 
Re: Fisch's (unnamed) 20-inches of Awesome!

Cool frame to start with! :D I like where this is going, good luck! :wink:
 
Re: Fisch's (unnamed) 20-inches of Awesome!

Thanks guys! Yup it is a tiny little dude, but I'd guess not much smaller than my Royce union muscle. But I don't know if I will have the luxury of a banana seat on this build!

I am all set to get one of those sealed cartridge BBs, even found one that is threadless by Sunlite. (For use with striped out BBs.). Wouldn't even need epoxy! It is like it was made for this application!
Sunlite68X119-1.jpg


BUT, ran into some unknown territory. Turns out the spindle that originally ran with this back wheel is 140MM wide from square end to square end. (Most cartridges (Like the Sunlite) seem to top out at 119 that I see.) I am told, that in order to keep my chainline with this rear wheel I need to run the same width spindle (140mm) in the current BB as was used in the donor bike. Now, they do make a 140MM profile style BMX spindle, but then I am back in the BMX sealed BB zone. (Prolly could gule some euro ones in, but I like this cartridge business better!)

Original Spindle:
SpindleOriginal.jpg


So I need to do some learnin to see if I can reduce the chainline in the rear freewheel. I am new to chainline stuff for sure!

My Royce Union for fun! I never thought I could fit this frame but have put some miles on it!
RoyceUnion1.jpg
 
Re: Fisch's (unnamed) 20-inches of Awesome!

CeeBee said:
IMAG0154.jpg


So you wish you had a 24" Stelber? If you are ever in Nashville I can make it happen for you!


Nice! I almost think my tank is the same size as yours even though I have a 20". Man your bottom bracket would make my build much easier! I also think these loopy frames would make a sweet motorized gasbike.

Saddly I've seen had my hands on two 24" Stelbers in the last couple years, before I knew how much I needed one. Indecisiveness stopped me from purchasing, then they were gone. Always hoping I can find that one for $30 around the corner. This is the curse of the occasional great deal. It spoils us!
 

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