fork post is to long..

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Apr 4, 2012
Messages
507
Reaction score
7
Location
Pittsburgh,PA
Rating - 0%
0   1   0
So i tried to match a higgind bee hive front fork to a elgin frame today...the threaded post is to long..not by much..is there an easy way to fix this...the only thing i can think of is to section the tube a guater inch and weld it back togeather...is that my only option?
 
the correct way would be to turn the threads with a die the extra length , and cut the rest off . But . there are some creative options with spacers , including my favorite ( because I happen to like a taller stem for comfort ) . grinding out a retaining collar to slip over the threads , and using a spacer between that and another collar . Partially visible in this photo
025.jpg
 
You can see on his how the collar kept all the angles the same on the springer. So that would be the best way. If you shorten the tube, the truss rods will line up differently, and maybe enough to make a difference, maybe not. I once did the same thing, but put the collar (that took up the slack) on the bottom instead of the top. That was a mistake, because the bottom portion takes most of the stress and my forks bent. The collar must go above the frame, so the forks ride flush with the frame at the crown, the lower steering bearing area.

On my bike, I put a beehive springer on a CWC frame. It was about 3/4 inch too long. I added an extra threaded nut with a washer and a tall nut on top that barely made it work. It's hardly noticable.

2zevv2w.jpg
 
Yes that is true for many fork types . Some have truss type rods that can be :wink: rebent , others , like Knee action forks , have connecting rods that would need to be shortened . And , in the case of the Beehive , cutting the threads would likely add preload to the spring . All good arguments for the spacer . Also , in the future , I'm thinking of incorporating a headlight mount into the spacer
 
I agree, and looking at my beehive there, if the top bracket was lower, the spring would be pushed forward unless more bend was added to the bar running between the spring and bike. Then it would look and ride the same as original.
 
That seems like a good idea with the extra nut but im still gonna add thread being that the nut that sits ontop the bearing dosent get far enough down to sit ontop the berring...so just to keep the brackets for the behive level i gotta add the second threaded nut? Im not sure this made any scence from me!!!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top