Flying Zombie
~:Undead Forever:~
To be fair, the number of companies that now produce vintage Automobile tires is astounding from my finds.. But I understand what youre sayin and I completely agree.. seems silly.
i know about the reprodution tires for cars , i mean if you wanted original tires & tubesTo be fair, the number of companies that now produce vintage Automobile tires is astounding from my finds.. But I understand what youre sayin and I completely agree.. seems silly.
+1nos tires could look cool but may not last as the can be dry rotted
there should be an adjuster cone and locknut on each side of the axle (between fork leg and hub shell), the cone needs to be adjusted to the bearings, then the lock nut gets tightened against the cone. The axle needs to be held in a vise to keep it from turning (soft jaws, between blocks of wood, something...) If you are tightening just the locknut you may be stripping the threads on the cone or axle. Do both sides. turn the cone until you feel it contact the bearings, then back it off a little and tighten the lock nut. remove wheel from vise, check for overtight or looseness, repeat adjustment until there is no free play and minimal drag. This is hard to do without an axle vise and axle cone wrench...
early front hubs had no locknut, just the adjuster cone.
+1... I find that the time spent removing the wheel is more than made up for by the ease with which i can adjust the hub off the bike.pretty hard to achieve a finely tuned hub when the wheel is still in the frame...not saying you cant get the play out of it but without turning the axle by hand there is no way to know if the hub is getting overtightened...
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