Gichigami Growler Grabber - Finished!!! Pic on page 8
- Thread starter DeuceWheeler
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Thanks man, I should have the kit this Thursday.
This is what is slowing my build progress....
Grinding away at the Bottom bracket has proven to be a huge pain. I am 1/2 of the way done on the drive side. haven't even attacked the non-drive side.
The BB is so gnarly on this firebolt, no where near as clean as most.
Here are some BB progress pics. Non-Drive side is left and I am getting through it. Probably 30-60 minutes of grinding left, then I can start hand filing grooves for the BB conversion bolts.
Before
After
This is the best bit I could find. The dremel and it's bits weren't working so well.
Vermont American File Bit for hardened steel
Before
After
This is the best bit I could find. The dremel and it's bits weren't working so well.
Vermont American File Bit for hardened steel
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Wow! You have made some good progress!
Luke.
Luke.
Thanks @LukeTheJoker as soon as I can get this bottom bracket done, I should be able to get it rideable the same day since I have everything I need aside from a chain, but I can get one of those quick in town.
Do you have a rat tail file? I used one last year to clean out the head set in my BO bike to get more clearance for a new fork tube.
I don't at the moment but planned on getting one after the major grinding was done.
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Here are some BB progress pics. Non-Drive side is left and I am getting through it. Probably 30-60 minutes of grinding left, then I can start hand filing grooves for the BB conversion bolts.
Before
After
This is the best bit I could find. The dremel and it's bits weren't working so well.
Vermont American File Bit for hardened steel
You are the Kwai Chang Caine of the bike build off. That work shows a lot of patience and detail. Very cool.
wow! a lot of cool work on this build!!! really am looking forward to seeing more BB pics!!
Troy
Troy
Thanks guys!
Ok, I am crying uncle. I have both sides ground down, but I still need to grind more to get the BB conversion cups to seat properly and I am losing my mind.
Do you guys think a machine shop would be able to mill the BB out for me without having to pay an arm and a leg??
Do you guys think a machine shop would be able to mill the BB out for me without having to pay an arm and a leg??
What! You must be close!
The problem with a machine shop mill is the time required for set up is what will cost you, the job itself would probably take 5-10 mins but set up could be far longer...
Luke.
I know I should just keep on truckin, but it's consuming a ton of my time.
I may know someone who can machine it for me, if not I will keep grinding.
Looking great! How is the clear coat holding up?
I haven't played with the BB conversion yet, but instead have been using BMX cranks that either came with the cups or used aluminum inserts that were compatible. Grinding that steel looks like a pain, but I'm sure it will be worth it.
BTW, have you seen these? http://mwmade.com/products/leather-bike-growler-carrier
I haven't played with the BB conversion yet, but instead have been using BMX cranks that either came with the cups or used aluminum inserts that were compatible. Grinding that steel looks like a pain, but I'm sure it will be worth it.
BTW, have you seen these? http://mwmade.com/products/leather-bike-growler-carrier
Thanks, the clear coat is terrible. Super easy to scratch.Looking great! How is the clear coat holding up?
I haven't played with the BB conversion yet, but instead have been using BMX cranks that either came with the cups or used aluminum inserts that were compatible. Grinding that steel looks like a pain, but I'm sure it will be worth it.
BTW, have you seen these? http://mwmade.com/products/leather-bike-growler-carrier
I have seen those. They are pretty cool. I bought a stainless steel, powdercoated growler and have a tap system that I will run off of it. Photos to come!
Can't wait to see the tap system. I have a couple of the Hydro Flask growlers, would be very interested in a tap system for that...
BTW, on the clear coat. Look at the Spray Max 2K aerosol. You can get it from Eastwood or http://www.66autocolor.com/ I used the Rustoleum as part of a 2 part paint job, and it was OK, but if you want something that will hold up better than most, the 2K finish is probably the way to go. Especially over bare metal.
The problem I have right now is that i already cleared the frame and the frame had some paint on it still. I am afraid that if I Clear over the crappy clear i already laid down I might make it worse?
The BEST clear coat in the world is by POR 15, called Glisten PC. I'm not joking either. This stuff is nearly bullet proof. It will never chip, fade, crack, turn yellow or peel off. It sounds expensive at $41 bucks a pint but I've painted a whole boat trailer with a pint and still had enough left to paint many more car parts. You can actually brush it on and when it dries it will be as smooth as if you sprayed it. While working on a hot rod chassis I accidentally painted a spot with POR 15 before I welded on a bracket. I had to use 40 grit sandpaper on my grinder just to even make a scratch in it.
I wonder if I could scuff up my current clear coat and brush this stuff over the top?
