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Flummoxed. Stumped. At my wit's end.
I removed the spacer from between the chainring and cone, hoping to tighten things up. Bear with me, I have lots going on in life. Tell me I'm doing this correctly. Balls go in cups, right?
IMG_20210831_191207024.jpg

And here's the gap, still there after spacer removal.
IMG_20210831_193649361.jpg

Can literally get a large flat screwdriver right in there. Also, zero Clarence, clearance! Way too tight on the right.
IMG_20210831_193718591.jpg

Can't go with this, so I dug out the old cruddy one that came on the Duck.
IMG_20210831_193729002.jpg

Yup, rusty silver BB and black crank, arms, and headset. Maybe it's time for another name change
sc4ZZ08WZ7HQhyw8Tn3ugrwgQiarq4uJVovM8AeRQ1g.png
 
Sometimes getting the perfect alignment or to snug it all up requires digging out spares as well. Different thickness washers can go in front or behind the sprocket and many times you'll find one between the cone and the lock nut on the non drive side

photogrid_15848510386005e76e89827.jpg
 
So you have the bearing in the cup, the 'cone nut' screwed into the bearing - then the tab washer and the locking nut? Mine usually have a pressed aluminium dust cap that wraps around the out edge of the BB that goes on after the 'cone nut' so that the gap you see is concealed, and then the tab washer and locknut go on after that.
 
You should keep the curb paint on there!
 
Yes, as far as I can remember, I didn't mix anything, just removed it, cleaned it, and put it on the bike.
Odd. Is there side to side movement when you have it tightened up? Maybe it's bottoming out on the threads before getting tight due to the spacer removal on the other side?
 
Odd. Is there side to side movement when you have it tightened up? Maybe it's bottoming out on the threads before getting tight due to the spacer removal on the other side?
Everything is right and tight, spinning smoothly. I even cranked it down too tight to see if anything would compress. All I can think is that the kid who threw the bike away messed things around
 
Try putting a spacer (thick washer) between the chainring and the drive side bearing race. That will move the crank slightly to that side, thereby moving the non-drive side threads on the crank into the BB shell. Hopefully, that will allow you to tighten the non-drive side race down against the bearings. Just be careful not to move the crank too far in or the arm will hit the non-drive side chainstay.
 
There was one spacer, which I removed. It was there for the first assembly when I discovered the gap. Maybe I'll try two. Dust cover fabrication is... hack-ey, even for a Matti type build. Used a hole saw to cut a disk out of sheet metal and drilled it with the trusty step bit. The hole isn't big enough yet, so I'd have to Dremel still, and it's already mega flimsy.I think I'm up to about 78 holes drilled in the bike.
Another idea, which I'm actually kinda liking, is a TwoFace BB, replace the non drive side with the silver balls and cones.
Anyhow, that's in the slow cooker for now. Today, I am going to try to finish the paint on the tins.
 
PM me your address, if you think you could use a non-drive side dust cover. I’d be happy to send one to you bud.
I should be able to pop it into a bubble envelope. Not sure if it will make it time for the BO, but you could add it afterwards
C31E788E-7517-439E-9294-5F98D0FA1452.jpeg

Here’s the one I put on the Humpster
29928E39-339E-477F-92D2-36776D6E0E7D.jpeg
 

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