I'm not familiar with the reference, this is the closest I could find
It's been some twists and turns, who knows where it's going to wind up now.
SWB0 Grand Jubile aka the Newbury Watusi
- Thread starter Pondo
- Start date
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I'm not familiar with the reference, this is the closest I could find
It's been some twists and turns, who knows where it's going to wind up now.
I'm not familiar with the reference, this is the closest I could find
It's been some twists and turns, who knows where it's going to wind up now.
Waterloo is the headquarters for Trek
Watusi because you’ve definitely been dancing your way through this up until now
Yes, that's the perfect moniker for this crazy build!
I noticed this old frame that I had forgotten about up in the garage rafters. Third time’s a charm I guess. It’s an 80s Diamond Back that I pulled out of the trash many years ago. The parts got used for another project back then.
It’s an 18” frame which is the size I would prefer for this build. The Motobecane is 22 1/2” and the Trek 16”. Moto-be-gone:
I had painted this frame before but didn’t wind up building it. The paint is okay-ish so I’m going to leave it. Also the head tube is long enough that I don’t have to cut down the fork steer tube. The Shimano 600 headset went in a little tight but then the forks bolted right up. Next to see if the cranks are going to work.
It’s an 18” frame which is the size I would prefer for this build. The Motobecane is 22 1/2” and the Trek 16”. Moto-be-gone:
I had painted this frame before but didn’t wind up building it. The paint is okay-ish so I’m going to leave it. Also the head tube is long enough that I don’t have to cut down the fork steer tube. The Shimano 600 headset went in a little tight but then the forks bolted right up. Next to see if the cranks are going to work.
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I didn’t want to forget about the bell so I cleaned it up a bit. It’s pretty crusty but I think it will fit the build. It’s a neat old rotating bell. I couldn’t find out much about it online.
I’ve decided to run the drivetrain as a 1x for now so the 52t chainring had to go. I got after the old worn out 40t inner ring with my dental grade ultrasonic cleaner as it was fairly caked with old lube and dirt. It will serve as a bash guard of sorts.
The 38t clears the chainstay by just enough.
Looks half decent like this too
Onward…
I’ve decided to run the drivetrain as a 1x for now so the 52t chainring had to go. I got after the old worn out 40t inner ring with my dental grade ultrasonic cleaner as it was fairly caked with old lube and dirt. It will serve as a bash guard of sorts.
The 38t clears the chainstay by just enough.
Looks half decent like this too
Onward…
Drivetrain looking 
Drivetrain looking
Thanks!
The chaos
I switched the saddle to the 26.4 seatpost and it’s looking good.
Especially with the wheels
I don’t open NOS parts very often, this is pretty cool. It’s a Raleigh branded SunTour VGT. I think it’s perfect for this build since my 600 derailleur didn’t pan out.
It came with complete instructions
Looks great on the bike
The cage is set up so you don’t have to break the chain to remove the derailleur. Pretty slick.
And threw the bell on just to check it out. I think it looks fine. I’m not used to seeing a bell on my bikes though 
Pedals and shifter. It’s looking like a bike. I’ll cable it up tomorrow and hopefully get in a test ride. Time to go do Valentine’s Day stuff.
Pedals and shifter. It’s looking like a bike. I’ll cable it up tomorrow and hopefully get in a test ride. Time to go do Valentine’s Day stuff.
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I put a squeeze horn on my kid hauling bike way back when. Worked well to halt the neighborhood dogs from charging too close. The thing was, I needed to take a hand off the handle bars to use it.And threw the bell on just to check it out. I think it looks fine. I’m not used to seeing a bell on my bikes though
Your bell, might want to consider mounting it to the handle bars. Hands then stay on the bars and ready for brakes or evasive steering.
Seems like the trans-migration of parts from one frame to another is going pretty well. Are those 700c wheels or 27"? The DB frame looks like it's set up 26" wheels, so the brake arm length might come into play.
Most of the critters I come across on my rides are deer and they generally keep their distance.
I worry about cars but the bell won't help there. Once I get it on the road I can mess around with positioning more. 
Man, you’ve got good eyes! The wheels are 27”. The front is original to the Motobecane, the rear has a Shimano 600 hub and I don’t remember what bike it came from originally. It’s been in the stash a long time.
Brake reach is definitely an issue as the frame is indeed designed for 26” wheels. The Dia Compe side pulls from the Motobecane will still work on the front of course but they’re too long for the rear
Fortunately I have some options in the stash. I don’t know why I’ve been holding onto road bike brakes. Until the last few years, I’ve only built mountain bikes. But I’ve got these old Raleigh branded Weinmann center pull calipers off of a different bike I pulled out of the trash years ago. They are two different lengths and if I use the front caliper on the rear wheel it fits perfectly.
And the other fits well on the front
So I need to swap the mounting studs when I’m cleaning them up and then figure out some straddle hangers and learn how to adjust them. And new pads, I think these are slightly too crusty.
Great that you found a rear brake caliper to work! You should be able to get that hooked up and functional. I highly recommend the Kool Stop Salmon colored brake pads, especially for older rims and your mix and match calipers.
The City on the left will work in your rear set up, and the Continentals will work for your front fork. This compound provides much better and quieter braking, in all conditions.
I used the Linear ones on the far right for a gravel conversion build I did in AZ a few years back on a Trek Multi-Sport from the mid '90s. That had 700c wheels stock, so I didn't have the caliper issues you do.
The City on the left will work in your rear set up, and the Continentals will work for your front fork. This compound provides much better and quieter braking, in all conditions.
I used the Linear ones on the far right for a gravel conversion build I did in AZ a few years back on a Trek Multi-Sport from the mid '90s. That had 700c wheels stock, so I didn't have the caliper issues you do.
Thanks OJ! Kool Stop salmon pads are my favorite. I think I have some of those Continentals somewhere, I'll take a look later, may have to order a set of the other style.
I really like this mix and match style of build. I get to use some parts and a frame that I previously had no use for and hopefully it will turn into a nice rider. If I come across a cooler frame in the future I'll swap everything again but for now I'm liking this build.
This is looking great! My kind of bike!
Thanks! I’m really looking forward to riding it. I thought I had forgotten the brake cables but I found them so I can keep going. Got the old calipers cleaned up and ready for service.
