Harlequin T - FINI (or not)

[G-Matt]

This long dog has been getting a lot of attention pressure is on. You really got some cool stuff going. But you may need to build an addition on your garage to keep it , man that thing looks big [emoji44]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[GuitarlCarl]

I just went back to an earlier picture and discovered that you have different size cogs on it. I assumed that they were the same.

I can see now why the steering is quick! Maybe that's what you intended anyway.

Not exactly. I used what I had in hand. That gives me 18 teeth in back and 14 in front. like you said, no wonder the steering is quick...

Carl.

 

[GuitarlCarl]

This here is the front gear mount. Now that 14 tooth is JB Welded onto the hub half and fits inside the tube with the pinch bolt thru the whole thing. I have more 18 tooth gears but they're Bendix 3 point style mount... I'll have to fab something up...

Carl.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Maybe you can fab up something temporary just to see if 1:1 feels right.

 

[GuitarlCarl]

Now I'm curious what gear ratio the early Colson rear steer tandems had.

Maybe you can fab up something temporary just to see if 1:1 feels right.

That's my next move. I can change the back gear pretty easy too. I put the spring clip that holds it in, on the bottom side.

Carl.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Now I'm curious what gear ratio the early Colson rear steer tandems had.

I would assume 1:1 considering that there were two sets of bars.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

You've made me curious about these rear steer tandems, so naturally I started looking at various pictures on the web.

I had to post this one because of the steer chain. This a perfect solution for getting the correct tension!

You have your homework assignment now.

 

[GuitarlCarl]

Yep

You've made me curious about these rear steer tandems, so naturally I started looking at various pictures on the web.

I had to post this one because of the steer chain. This a perfect solution for getting the correct tension!

You have your homework assignment now.

I originally thought about that too,
using a pair of screen door turnbuckles.
Very similar to what @Falstaff is doing with his rod steering. You know you're right. It's been done before that way and we know it worked. I also went back and checked all my cogs against my hubs, and the section I welded to the column takes a Sturmey Archer cog. I just found a few on Ebay.

Carl.

 

[GuitarlCarl]

I figure at some point this bike is going to cruise in Chicago. I'm going to have to put a couple wall hangers for ladders on the passenger side of my rat Ranger, just to haul it up there...

[emoji450]

 

[Skipton]

I figure at some point this bike is going to cruise in Chicago. I'm going to have to put a couple wall hangers for ladders on the passenger side of my rat Ranger, just to haul it up there...

[emoji450]

Or put the front wheel on the roof with the rear on the tailgate.

 

[Fv2]

The steering rods seem to work, will have to put weight on them to see how well.
A bit of tweaking to get them just right, but should be ok.

 

[GuitarlCarl]

The steering rods seem to work, will have to put weight on them to see how well.
A bit of tweaking to get them just right, but should be ok.

The tighter I had mine the better. It's all about the play in it I'm sure. I'm also rethinking my front fork... I still like the look of the straight fork better.

Guitarl.

 

[OddJob]

Not exactly. I used what I had in hand. That gives me 18 teeth in back and 14 in front. like you said, no wonder the steering is quick...

Carl.

See "jackknife" comment posted previously before this cog size business was mentioned.

The important thing to remember is: 2(3.14)r.
(I don't have a "pi" symbol on my laptop)
The percentage of the rotation of your large circumference circle (your steering wheel) is so much smaller than the percentage of your steerer circle (cog affixed to the fork). That is why the steering is so quick. By increasing the size of the cog on the steerer, you will lower the percentage of rotation there and the bigger the cog the less quick the steering will be.

What did the acorn say when he grew up?

"Ge-om-e-try"

 

[GuitarlCarl]

Nobody asked why because it was obvious. 9 to 7 ratio isn't far off considering I USED WHAT I HAD ON HAND... and since this isn't finished product I don't care either. I already have a 14 tooth cog, for the rear, on the way. That'll give me a 1 to 1 ratio. I also plan on using rods connected to the chain similar to what Colson did a 100 years ago. I'm sure the chain length will change again with the new cog, and I didn't even need any geometry to figure that out. (a class I aced back in the 70s btw) in fact design changes coming may result in multiple changes to the bike before I'm done. I call that fun with wrenches...

[emoji450]

sent from a banana phone...

 

[Fv2]

The tighter I had mine the better. It's all about the play in it I'm sure. I'm also rethinking my front fork... I still like the look of the straight fork better.
View attachment 45381 View attachment 45382

Guitarl.

I'm in agreeance, a bent springer has a place but I don't think this bike is it.
Wasn't gonna say anything, it's your bike. But you brought it up.

 

[GuitarlCarl]

I'm in agreeance, a bent springer has a place but I don't think this bike is it.
Wasn't gonna say anything, it's your bike. But you brought it up.

No, it's all good I've been waffling on the bent springer for a while. I just get subtle annoyance at smug "told you so" comments... So the bent springer went back on the Rockin' Rollfast where it belongs. I got some things done today too.

Got the set screw drilled and tapped today...

Had fun trying forks... this one almost made the cut but if you look, the front BB is 4" higher than the 3 1/2" block that is the projected clearance...

There's the straight springer. Pull the spring and go with a 20" and it's right at the height I'm looking for.
It'll be a little choppery but not like the bent one. I have a few bikes that have the elbow-ee feel to them without being crazy. Problems with this is the rim and tire are both shot so it's more new parts... which I didn't want to do.
Fun little sidebar, after pulling a frame swap right off the bat, the only thing left from the original unfinished build is the "Harlequin" and the bent seatpost...

GuitarlCarl.

 

[Fv2]

Shame about the clearance with the rattrap, looks good.
I wonder if flipping the rockers would lower it....

 

[GuitarlCarl]

Shame about the clearance with the rattrap, looks good.
I wonder if flipping the rockers would lower it....

All of a sudden it's all sketchy again...
Nah, that fork is waiting for the right bike probably a stretched cruiser I don't have yet.

[emoji450]

 

[GuitarlCarl]

There it is up on my workbench.
It's an old workmate with 2x6's screwed to it.
Clamps right on the frame with no harm.

Here's my rear chainguard mount, nylon spacer and cymbal brass.

Made my idler from a U bolt with one side cut down.

I got a few details knocked out today. Pretty happy with the progress.

Carl.

 

[OddJob]

Nobody asked why because it was obvious. 9 to 7 ratio isn't far off considering I USED WHAT I HAD ON HAND... and since this isn't finished product I don't care either. I already have a 14 tooth cog, for the rear, on the way. That'll give me a 1 to 1 ratio. I also plan on using rods connected to the chain similar to what Colson did a 100 years ago. I'm sure the chain length will change again with the new cog, and I didn't even need any geometry to figure that out. (a class I aced back in the 70s btw) in fact design changes coming may result in multiple changes to the bike before I'm done. I call that fun with wrenches...

[emoji450]

sent from a banana phone...

Was it really THAT subtle?

No harm meant. Unfortunately for me, I grew up with a dad that taught geometry in the high school for 37 yrs, and at home at least once a week. Blame it on nurture, not nature.
( a class I didn't ace back in the '70s btw)