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Joined
Oct 31, 2013
Messages
138
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Location
Quinte West, Ontario, Canada
Hi everyone,

This is my first build off. I'm starting with a pile of parts I got from a buddy of mine who is a fan of the site but i don't think has an account on here. (If you're lurking and reading this Matt, thanks!)

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The bike is a Leader Marquis manufactured by Victoria Precision Works Ltd., in Montreal, Quebec, which is where I spent the first fifty some odd years of my life, hence the name. I suspect the the bike was made in the late 70's, possibly 1977 based on a catalog page I found on another bicycle site.

I'm not exactly sure where I'm going with this but here are a couple of mock-ups:
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Welcome to the fray! Looks like you've got some ideas, I like the ape hanger bars in the second mock up.
 
That 26" springer jacks it up to a nice chopper height.
 
Smaller wheel on the front would give it more of a Krate look. Like the parts pile already and welcome to the rat race.
 
Sweet mock up! I too like the apes. A 16" front tire would help keep the bike from looping out on you!
 
Trying a few more things. I picked up some more gear from my buddy Matt. Here we are with the new bars and big and little rubber on 20's which is the way I was thinking of going.

IMG_20181020_164425.jpg

Here's with the shortest wheel I could dig up on short notice, an 18" off my grandson's Lightning McQueen bike.

IMG_20181020_165414.jpg

My feeling is that there is enough of a stagger in the first image that is has a real 70's chopper vibe and that is looks a little cartoonish in the 2nd picture. I will entertain other opinions though.
 
It's amazing the diff between the 20" fr tire and the 18" ! I think if you leveled the nose of the saddle, the smaller fr tire / wheel wouldn't look so extreme. The first combo looks more balanced, while the second combo is definitely more 'krate' like and eye catching.
 
I'm digging it either way, man! Maybe swinging a bit to the smaller wheel, but definately cool either way!
 
A lot of the stance of a bike is about the "lines" getting things parallel. Making things flow. Cutting a loop or two out of the spring, or getting a deeper U shaped top bracket would drop the front down a bit. Tilting the handle bars forward, maybe making the line of the fork go up the back half of the butterfly bars changes it to a forward thrusting look. (my favorite bars) I've always thought banana seats should be parallel to the chain stays, but many folks try that nose up look too. Keep changing it up, you'll find the right combo. As it sits, the smaller front tire will ride better...

Carl.
 
I broke down and bought a 16" wheel from my LBS, It is apparently a BMX race wheel that has been lying around forever so I got a deal on it.

One of the reasons the seat has looked so off is that I couldn't get a seat post to fit in the seat tube. I measured everything and realized the seat post I had should fit. I sanded and filed and hammered and finally got to the point that a seat post could be inserted all the way.

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Now I have to figure out how to make it stop. The plan is to go with a Shimano 3-speed hub and stick shift, so I need brakes, ideally front and rear.

I have an idea for the front. I might have to change the rear tire, it's currently a West Coast Choppers 20x3.0 or something like that and it doesn't look like rim brakes are going to get around the tire.

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I really like this build, wild muscle bike proportions.

I cant tell, is the rear rim straight sidewall or angled. I tried to use caliper brakes on angled side wall and it doesnt work well.
If you have welder access to add bosses, you might get v brakes to clear the tire. Put them on the chainstays and really complicate things. :eek: thats what I did on a past build:headbang:
 
I really like your new 16" wheel in the front, and that super wide slick in the back really sets it off. The whole stance on this bike is really 'hot rod' !

The brakes are a conundrum for sure if you want to go with a 3 speed. I have a Shimano 4 speed on my 'Four-gone Conclusion' build from MBBO #5. That has a coaster brake hub, so after stretching the rear triangle a bit to fit it in, I was good to go. Maybe you can find a similar one in your area?

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There is an older Shimano 3 speed coaster hub. I've used one before and I have one on my current build. If you're still sourcing parts, you might keep your eyes open for one. Lacing hubs isn't as hard as you think it'd be. Two birds with one stone as they say...

Carl.
 
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I really like this build, wild muscle bike proportions.

I cant tell, is the rear rim straight sidewall or angled. I tried to use caliper brakes on angled side wall and it doesnt work well.
If you have welder access to add bosses, you might get v brakes to clear the tire. Put them on the chainstays and really complicate things. :eek: thats what I did on a past build:headbang:

Was also thinking a v-brake would clear the tire but there's an easier way to mount one to the seat stays.

Used some Schwinn sissy bar clamps on this bike. Looks like the tubes on this are the same size. Works great as the braking force just pushes the pads into the rim harder.

brake_zpstie48yjh.jpg~original


Bike is looking cool with the 16 inch front tire.
 
I have a Shimano 4 speed on my 'Four-gone Conclusion' build from MBBO #5. That has a coaster brake hub, so after stretching the rear triangle a bit to fit it in, I was good to go. Maybe you can find a similar one in your area?

I spent the afternoon yesterday measuring up for brakes and sorting out my options, finding something to fit will be a real problem. @OddJob buddy of mine has a 4-speed coaster hub, but there's no shifter of any sort and I just got a shiny NOS Shimano 3-speed click stick shift in the mail.

@GuitarlCarl, they actually have new Shimano 3-speed coasters that would solve another problem I'm having. I was looking for an alloy rim for the rear to match the alloy front and they are hard to find with 28 holes. The new hub will fit modern rims and I can pick up a laced coaster brake wheel for a parts donor pretty cheap.

I'm going to crunch the numbers and make a decision real soon.
 
@restodave, why 28 holes? Do you need the same spoke COUNT as the front, or just the look? It should be pretty easy to find an alloy in 36h to match any Shimano hub... of course if it ends up extra, you can always send me the click shift...:giggle:

Carl.
 
@GuitarlCarl

I have two built steel 3-speed wheels and one spare shimano hub and they are all 28 spoke. I broke down and ordered the 3-speed coaster brake hub and a built black anodized 36 spoke wheel that I can lace the hub into. It seems like half the bike is in the mail right now and our postal workers are going on rotating strikes up here. With any luck everything will get here in time to finish in February.

Dave
 
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