Hozan spoke roller

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Sep 17, 2013
Messages
4,296
Reaction score
9,475
Location
The middle of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan
Rating - 100%
3   0   0
I want a Hozan roller but need to know how good they are first. How long does the rolling head on a Hozan spoke roller last? I have been using a die, which is fine for the odd broken spoke replacement. Originally they cut the threads in the old days, didn't have rollers. People are still building wheels successfully using a die as they did in days of old, but I can't see why. My nipples fit tight and don't come loose and I have not broken any of these odd replacement spokes so I might continue to use the die on single spokes if it is easier than setting up the roller? I only can get 6 to 8 spokes threaded with a quality die as the cutting edge is so fine and brittle and they chip. I plan to roll plated and stainless spokes only. I was getting my spokes cut and rolled at the local bike shop, but he sold out and they no longer do this. I still want to build the occasional wheel so If I want to do this I need a roller, if this is practical. Does the Hozan work well? How often do you have to toss a spoke that was not threaded correctly with one of these gizmos? Thanks for sharing your experience.
 
I have found they are not worth the effort, takes a ton of time to get 72 spokes done and even then they may not be perfect.

There are several online retailers that sell off brand spokes for cheap and work great.
 
:eek: Huh, interesting I was Wondering the exact same thing....thinkin' its time to do some custom spoke ideas:cool:
 
I have found they are not worth the effort, takes a ton of time to get 72 spokes done and even then they may not be perfect.

There are several online retailers that sell off brand spokes for cheap and work great.
Thanks, good to know, I was worried about this on the Hozon.
Do you know if your source sells odd size spokes as I am building wheels with odd spoke lengths, vintage Euro drum brakes, Bendix manual 2 speed etc? I sometimes use used spokes for the standard sizes. Both my front and rear hubs are offset and will require weird sizes which are different for each side of the hub. The front hub needs 253 & 251mm spokes. Does your supplier custom cut and thread spokes? All the suppliers that I have found on the net that do this have a hefty charge.
 
Last edited:
I have used this guy before. Custom cut some 2.6mm/105g black spokes for a drum brake into a 24" rim. They were .45/spoke a few years ago w/ nipple. His prices still look pretty good.
http://www.mrrabbit.net/oscommerce-2.3.3/catalog/index.php?cPath=25
Thanks, that is good to know, Ill give him a try. Looks like under $20 for both wheels, can't beat that, I would have to build a lot of wheels to justify a Hozan purchase. I like to dink around but rolling spokes is probably not a very good use of my time when I could be out riding.
 
I have a couple Hozan spoke threaders with 3 or 4 "dies" in different gauges. They do take constant lube and adjusting to work well. There is a fair amount of technique involved. You have to PUSH and turn to get them started. Getting exactly even length threads is a lost hope.

It gets pretty tedious cranking out 32 or 36 spokes. The results are not as good as manufactured spokes or those rolled by the Phil Wood machine or the Mitzumi.

I've used my cordless drill to run it when I have a bunch to do. It's easier pushing on the back of the drill than the tiny knob which will leave you with some blisters before you get 36 done.

"Cutting" threads with a normal die is a sure way to spokes breaking or just pulling out. The threads don't stick out so they don't catch the threads in the nipple very well.

"Rolling" threads pushes the material around. The result is the thread stick out farther which engages the threads in the nipples better.

$100-$150 for a Hozan. $3k for a Mitzumi. $4k+ for a Phil. You would have to need a lot of spokes to make any worth it when there are guys with the nice tools who will cut and thread what ever you need for pretty reasonable rates.

Rick
 
I have a couple Hozan spoke threaders with 3 or 4 "dies" in different gauges. They do take constant lube and adjusting to work well. There is a fair amount of technique involved. You have to PUSH and turn to get them started. Getting exactly even length threads is a lost hope.

It gets pretty tedious cranking out 32 or 36 spokes. The results are not as good as manufactured spokes or those rolled by the Phil Wood machine or the Mitzumi.

I've used my cordless drill to run it when I have a bunch to do. It's easier pushing on the back of the drill than the tiny knob which will leave you with some blisters before you get 36 done.

"Cutting" threads with a normal die is a sure way to spokes breaking or just pulling out. The threads don't stick out so they don't catch the threads in the nipple very well.

"Rolling" threads pushes the material around. The result is the thread stick out farther which engages the threads in the nipples better.

$100-$150 for a Hozan. $3k for a Mitzumi. $4k+ for a Phil. You would have to need a lot of spokes to make any worth it when there are guys with the nice tools who will cut and thread what ever you need for pretty reasonable rates.

Rick
Thanks, I won't buy it after this good input.
 
Ordered my custom cut spokes from cman's vendor. This is great as he is cutting 16mm thread depth for that old time look. Price is reasonable. He says he has the biggest data base of obsolete steel wheels and hubs for calculation but I can't assess it as I have a MAC computer and it looks like it is in Excel. I have no MAC version of this.
 
I have used this guy before. Custom cut some 2.6mm/105g black spokes for a drum brake into a 24" rim. They were .45/spoke a few years ago w/ nipple. His prices still look pretty good.
http://www.mrrabbit.net/oscommerce-2.3.3/catalog/index.php?cPath=25
Robert has been my go-to spoke guy for several years now. I rebuild all my wheels on restorations and he's been incredibly helpful and patient in measurements and needs. I highly recommend him!
 
Robert has been my go-to spoke guy for several years now. I rebuild all my wheels on restorations and he's been incredibly helpful and patient in measurements and needs. I highly recommend him!
Im glad I posted about the Hozan roller, getting it done by a pro at a reasonable cost is so much better.
 
Ordered my custom cut spokes from cman's vendor. This is great as he is cutting 16mm thread depth for that old time look. Price is reasonable. He says he has the biggest data base of obsolete steel wheels and hubs for calculation but I can't assess it as I have a MAC computer and it looks like it is in Excel. I have no MAC version of this.


if you have a google account you can use their package view and edit excel files
 
Yes, Dan's is HUGE. We're nowhere near them, but out in here in NJ, Dan's was (probably still is) a factor in retail pricing of bmx bikes/parts.
 
The wheel is built with a slightly off set old Euro. DBS Gigant drum brake on an alloy rim. It took only 3 days to get the spokes and $26 including shipping from Mr. Rabbit. It was a little more pricy because I got one extra length of spokes because I got a slightly different answer on each of the 3 spoke length calculators I used and I wanted to make sure it could be tightened enough. Still better than buying a Hozan threader. Next I have to decide if I want to build a wheel using my Bendix Manual 2 speed or with my old New Arai full hub width drum brake with a 5 speed bail out gearing cluster. I want to build two more Klunkers but I don't have any frames yet so it is hard to decide which wheel to build next.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top