It is possible. The Morrow hub is compatible with Bendix sprockets but trying to find an 11T or 12T isn't always easy.
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- Thread starter Uncle Shish
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A chain tensioner could work but wouldn't really look right.
The Renaissance Man
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Already stated, but I would play with the gearing. Either front or rear or both. Moving the fender is not the solution, two wrongs don't make a right. However, three lefts does make a right. lol
Start by removing the chain, center the wheel and see how much is needed. Probably not much.
Start by removing the chain, center the wheel and see how much is needed. Probably not much.
I agree with @The Renaissance Man , play with the gearing first. The only other option I see is longer fender braces, but that is way more involved, and not a guaranteed result.
Did a little researching on Skiptooth chainring/sprocket diameters and came up with this on a 1" pitch.
9T 3.25"
10T 3.46"
11T 3.78"
12T 4.10"
22T 7.28"
24T 7.92"
26T 8.56"
Surely there is a math problem buried in here and chain length is surely a variable.
I wish I had all the variable parts to do a controlled experiemnt.
9T 3.25"
10T 3.46"
11T 3.78"
12T 4.10"
22T 7.28"
24T 7.92"
26T 8.56"
Surely there is a math problem buried in here and chain length is surely a variable.
I wish I had all the variable parts to do a controlled experiemnt.
It looks to me that even if you move the wheel forward whole fender will try to move forward because the braces are attached to the axle.
Something looks off about how high the front of the fender is to the frame and chainline.. Are you sure that the front of the fender isn't supposed to slide down between the chainstays? That indention in the front side of the fender should be much closer to the top of the guard and the chainline.
Something looks off about how high the front of the fender is to the frame and chainline.. Are you sure that the front of the fender isn't supposed to slide down between the chainstays? That indention in the front side of the fender should be much closer to the top of the guard and the chainline.
See how the fender was mounted on the donor bike you got it from? You have it jacked up in the front. Also look at the angle of the lower rear fender brace compared to how you have it on the build. It's just a fender installation and fitment problem, not a drivetrain one. You got this even if you have to modify the front bottom of the fender.
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I believe you are correct, as far as the measurement/movement. However, removing one link pair made the chain too short. It bottomed out in the dropouts, or was all the way forward if that makes sense.
Thanks for the observation. I will give rotating it a try. I should point out however, that the '39 donor bikes fenders weren't used in this build as the front was too mangled.
I ended up using fenders from a '41 which utilized a different chainguard, that's why the weird gap.
It seems when you mount the fender bolt in the seat stays mount that it dictates where the chainstays mounting bolt falls. I'll goof with it some more
Found this photo on the cabe of a 40 dx, you can see that the bigger lip of the fender just about touches the chainstays.
Yours 41 fenders seem to be a good 2+ inches up above the chainstays.
A story of true heroes
Beautiful bike! Looks really nice by the lake.
Skip tooth makes small adjustment tricky. Maybe could remove a link in combination with smaller rear cog? Would loose a bit of gearing but might get lucky on the chain length.
Skip tooth makes small adjustment tricky. Maybe could remove a link in combination with smaller rear cog? Would loose a bit of gearing but might get lucky on the chain length.
Good eye. Def looks like the fender is being held up by the indents at the seat stays.
I think we agree,you can’t just rotate the position of the fender as the indents and mounting hole dictate the placement of the fender.
I agree. but when using fenders from other bikes many times you have to trim the front lip to match the frame you are attaching it to. With many frames there are differences between years and even between mens/womens frame geometry. That ladies 41 fender needs the front lip cut and shaped at least two inches to fit your 40 mens frame.
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I just don't see it. Removing 2" from the lower mounting tab does nothing but make the fender tab cut off and shorter.
I can't move where the seat stays dimples are in the fender. I could cut the entire bottom half of the fender off and the top half would still sit in the dimples and mount to the same location.
Here's the 39 DX fender. It is indeed a better fit
Side by side comparison, the 41 fenders are deeper, and chainguard indent is much different.
Side by side comparison, the 41 fenders are deeper, and chainguard indent is much different.
Correct fender, similar fit problem.
I have an S2 with an 11t. I'll try that next and report back
I have an S2 with an 11t. I'll try that next and report back
Yeah for sure. Path of least resistance will be to scoot the wheel up a bit. Some great educational content going on here.
