MazdaFlyer
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Teaser...some lipstick on the pig.
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LaidBack - TransWorld Motobike Rat - Patinafication & Details - 85 Years
- Thread starter MazdaFlyer
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MazdaFlyer
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Made a rough sketch of faux tool box tank for the Motobike. Sill need to take measurements and loft out the patterns.
I figure this will cost a little less than the pricey rare real deals. It will be an experiment at best but just maybe a success.
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I figure this will cost a little less than the pricey rare real deals. It will be an experiment at best but just maybe a success.
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The Renaissance Man
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Very cool bike! I like where it's going so far.
That chain ring has some serious miles on it! wow!
That chain ring has some serious miles on it! wow!
Progress on this is flying!
Really looking forward to seeing the tank!
Really looking forward to seeing the tank!
MazdaFlyer
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Thanks! The chainring does appear to have a lot of wear in the photo with the crank. The extra point between cogs is actually just grease/crud. The bike does probably have a bunch of miles on it though. I’ve also found that bikes from farms were kept well lubricated. Thus critical parts stay preserved. The bearings are another story.Very cool bike! I like where it's going so far.
That chain ring has some serious miles on it! wow!
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MazdaFlyer
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I’ve been “mentally” working on this bike since seeing it show up in Facebook Marketplace. So I have a plan ingrained in my mind. It was unleashed when RatRod said let the games begin.
I’m looking forward to seeing the tank as well.
Inspiration image:
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I’ve been “mentally” working on this bike since seeing it show up in Facebook Marketplace. So I have a plan ingrained in my mind. It was unleashed when RatRod said let the games begin.
I’m looking forward to seeing the tank as well.
Inspiration image:
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That bike is taking shape so very nicely. I'm really enjoying this thread.
MazdaFlyer
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Tank template mock-up in progress. Experimented with a couple of cardboard templates after taking key measurements.
Now to transfer measurements to metal and add fold and seam lines to pattern. And the trick is to get two halves that match.
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Now to transfer measurements to metal and add fold and seam lines to pattern. And the trick is to get two halves that match.
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MazdaFlyer
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Sheet metal work in progress. A shear and a brake would be good...hand tools old school way here.
Out of metal for bottom...
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Out of metal for bottom...
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MazdaFlyer
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Prototype in progress. I’ll be doing this again to fine tune it. A spot welder would be good. Going to use pop rivets on this first version.
Raining here today, my workspace is crowded. The first version will also help determine some final dimensions and hopefully lead to assembly ideas.
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Raining here today, my workspace is crowded. The first version will also help determine some final dimensions and hopefully lead to assembly ideas.
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MazdaFlyer
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Version #1 - now that I see the pitfalls and limitations I’ll recoup and do some fine tuning and tackle Version #2 on another day. Maybe next week. At least I know I can pull this off in ratty fashion.
I’ll use some plumbing or electrical brackets to secure it to top bar. I didn’t put a full bottom in it as I ran short of metal out of the 12” x 24” 28ga piece I started with. Just added a couple of braces. The biggest hassle is getting a clean cut on the exposed edges. Need a sheet metal shear.
It stopped raining so I took it outside.
Looks like I ought to taper the rear at the bend. The bottom section will close the front opening. Also need to think through the access door. I’ll need a battery pack for a teacup light. But for batteries I may use an old flare storage tube. It continues. All comments welcomed.
Having second thoughts about the bottom profile of the tank. I’ve planned and mocked up the sides allowing for a 3/8” drop below the bottom bar. The other option is to make sides the same dimension as the opening between top tube and bottom tube. Thus the tank profile would match the cardboard profile shown previously. I’ve seen the old tanks made both ways. I think the original Schwinn tanks would have had the shortened height. The after market tanks may have had the extra depth in order to fit more bikes.
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I’ll use some plumbing or electrical brackets to secure it to top bar. I didn’t put a full bottom in it as I ran short of metal out of the 12” x 24” 28ga piece I started with. Just added a couple of braces. The biggest hassle is getting a clean cut on the exposed edges. Need a sheet metal shear.
It stopped raining so I took it outside.
Looks like I ought to taper the rear at the bend. The bottom section will close the front opening. Also need to think through the access door. I’ll need a battery pack for a teacup light. But for batteries I may use an old flare storage tube. It continues. All comments welcomed.
Having second thoughts about the bottom profile of the tank. I’ve planned and mocked up the sides allowing for a 3/8” drop below the bottom bar. The other option is to make sides the same dimension as the opening between top tube and bottom tube. Thus the tank profile would match the cardboard profile shown previously. I’ve seen the old tanks made both ways. I think the original Schwinn tanks would have had the shortened height. The after market tanks may have had the extra depth in order to fit more bikes.
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Looks good. More work than I feel like I can do well. I gave it a half-hearted attempt once upon a time and found I dob’t have the right tools or skills for sheet metal work.
Rivets could add some character, if that fits your look. Kinda like up close airplane skin.
Rivets could add some character, if that fits your look. Kinda like up close airplane skin.
MazdaFlyer
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[emoji106]
It’s a work in progress, stay tuned more to come. Thanks!
Thanks! Not really that difficult. Just some measuring, drafting, cutting, bending, filing, drilling. Used a pair of long cut aviation snips, a seaming jig and pliers, ....... file, drill and pop river gun. A little trial and error. I will do the bottom for this one and then a “final” version #2, paint and decals.
I notice the type file I used has been censored...lol.
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The Renaissance Man
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MazdaFlyer
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Rough sketch for Version #2. Going to add taper at back end where top bends down. This should actually simplify bending the seam/flanges with a relief cut.
Waffling about whether to eliminate the 3/8” flange at bottom versus making the bottom flush and flat.
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Waffling about whether to eliminate the 3/8” flange at bottom versus making the bottom flush and flat.
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Yeah, axle grease in most cases for farm bikes. Same thing that was used on the moving parts of tractors. Since I've joined and participated in this forum, my mind keeps going back to the farm bike my uncles rode on my mom's home farm where I often worked during Summer hay season and rock picking in the Spring. They were only 6 and 7 years older than me, so more like big brothers.
That bike was so quiet, it was covered with that dark black cherry colored lube in all the right places.
Oh and, Ed; you've now officially made up my mind not to try to configure a metal tank of my own. Yours is turning out so well, all others will pale in comparison.
Excellent work on that sheet metal fabrication!
Excellent work on that sheet metal fabrication!
MazdaFlyer
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A tank on your Trans bike would somewhat emulate the early ‘30s Rollfast and Elgin deluxe tank Bikes.Oh and, Ed; you've now officially made up my mind not to try to configure a metal tank of my own. Yours is turning out so well, all others will pale in comparison.
Excellent work on that sheet metal fabrication!
Thanks for the vote of confidence!
I sprung for HF power snips. If I can figure out a way to get them to follow a straight line they will clean up my shaky first attempt.
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