Linseed oil finish?

[GuitarlCarl]

I'm curious and haven't seen a definitive answer on the "sheen" of a boiled linseed oil finish. Is is satin, shiney, or wet looking when finished? I'm thinking of applying it to a build of mine.

Carl.

 

[kirkpatrick]

I've done it to pretty much every bike I've cleaned up. Definitely looks glossy, but fades after a while. Protects metal from rusting further.

This was right after a linseed wipe down.

 

[ratrodzrcool]

I'm curious and haven't seen a definitive answer on the "sheen" of a boiled linseed oil finish. Is is satin, shiney, or wet looking when finished? I'm thinking of applying it to a build of mine.

Carl.

Yes i did my colson and its a shiny wet look i like it [emoji106]

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[Scribble]

My 1941 Colson Scout with the linseed oil treatment.

 

[MazdaFlyer]

Boiled Linseed Oil after rubdown with #0000 wool and WD40. As stated previously the sheen will dull as it cures out.


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[Speed King]

So what's the procedure exactly?

 

[Scribble]

So what's the procedure exactly?

I start with 0000 grit wool and WD40 rub down just to clean and buff the patina. Then put a thin layer of oil on the paint rub it in with an old rag, if you put on to thick of a layer it will gum up and not dry. So be sparing with the oil.

 

[MazdaFlyer]

I start with 0000 grit wool and WD40 rub down just to clean and buff the patina. Then put a thin layer of oil on the paint rub it in with an old rag, if you put on to thick of a layer it will gum up and not dry. So be sparing with the oil.

The rags used with the linseed oil should be stored or disposed of in a covered metal container (safety can) due to potential spontaneous combustion risk.


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[Fv2]

It's odd that you all say it's shiny, when I used it on setback last year I got more of a matte finish. Then it dulled with more buffing.

It did brighten the paint, but it wasn't shiny. Still isn't.
Maybe I did it wrong.

 

[MazdaFlyer]

It's odd that you all say it's shiny, when I used it on setback last year I got more of a matte finish. Then it dulled with more buffing.

It did brighten the paint, but it wasn't shiny. Still isn't.
Maybe I did it wrong.

I think the actual condition of the existing paint or rust determines the sheen. After buffing off the wet oil, it dried/cured and semigloss transitioned to more of a matte appearance on my Hawthorne.


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[GuitarlCarl]

I think I'll try it on my Westfield Wasteland...

Carl.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

It's odd that you all say it's shiny, when I used it on setback last year I got more of a matte finish. Then it dulled with more buffing.

It did brighten the paint, but it wasn't shiny. Still isn't.
Maybe I did it wrong.

Same here. I think you can control it (some) by how much you buff off while it's wet. As already mentioned, you can apply it too heavy and it will be gummy and sticky.

 

[Speed King]

I start with 0000 grit wool and WD40 rub down just to clean and buff the patina. Then put a thin layer of oil on the paint rub it in with an old rag, if you put on to thick of a layer it will gum up and not dry. So be sparing with the oil.

Thanks man.

 

[wintermute]

Taking this a few steps further...is it possible to do a built-up BLOW finish? Has anyone tried Tung oil? Danish oil? Wipe-on poly?

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[Fv2]

Taking this a few steps further...is it possible to do a built-up BLOW finish? Has anyone tried Tung oil? Danish oil? Wipe-on poly?

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I can only say, I wouldn't use wipe on poly on a bike. In my experience, it works best on a flat surface. I'd imagine it would spider web on a bike.

 

[kirkpatrick]

I linseed oil everything, even myself when nobody's around.

 

[SILVERKINGPC]

LInseed oil is the best match for oil based paints when restoring the finish and for protecting metal. It will be semi-matt when cured and is forgiving. I suggest wetting an old cotton rag and applying heavily.(not sparingly) This ensures you don't miss any spots & it gets deep into any cracks or rust to seal it up tight. You can even wet sand the old paint with it. This drives it deep into the old finish or pores for even better results.
After slopping a final coat on, completely wipe off all oil aggressively with clean cotton rags until not oily to the touch. If you leave any on the surface, it will become sticky. Oxygen will over time cure it harder and less sheeny.
Tung oil is fast-drying because it is linseed oil with a small amount of shellac or lacquer in it. More tricky with less time to work it, and I believe dries semi-gloss to glossy.

 

[wintermute]

I was thinking more along the lines of "real" Tung Oil, which is pressed from a tree nut. It has a longer drying time than BLO (which might be a bad thing), possibly better water resistance, it's tough and flexible, and it darkens/dulls less over time than BLO.

Here's another, possibly stupid question - the BLO finish should work fine on 80's enamel paint, right?

 

[SILVERKINGPC]

I was thinking more along the lines of "real" Tung Oil, which is pressed from a tree nut. It has a longer drying time than BLO (which might be a bad thing), possibly better water resistance, it's tough and flexible, and it darkens/dulls less over time than BLO.

Here's another, possibly stupid question - the BLO finish should work fine on 80's enamel paint, right?

Don't have exp. with that, but BLO on enamels will work as well. Like KirkPatrick says, you can use it on anything. Great natural product with no solvents..

 

[Indyjps]

Taking this a few steps further...is it possible to do a built-up BLOW finish? Has anyone tried Tung oil? Danish oil? Wipe-on poly?

Ive used danish oil on car stuff, same idea just a different mode of transportation. Works fine, matte finish. I already have a can of it. I prefer johnsons paste wax on patina, the turpentine dries out and leaves a good finish. Never tried linseed oil.
Plenty of options.