LTJ's 1981 DATSUN STANZA (A10) WANNABE RALLY CAR. SOLD and moving.
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Very soon! Can't find my good camera at the moment and the phone camera doesn't do it justice...
Had some problems with the original carburettor not idling down immediately after revving, it may have been because it was an auto carb which apparently has some system that holds the revs up slightly when you back off, but I thought that was just an added plunger on the side that I removed when doing the manual swap...
Whatever the reason was, I cleaned and modified the 200b (810) carb which is basically the same and fitted it today, and it fixed the issue!
Whatever the reason was, I cleaned and modified the 200b (810) carb which is basically the same and fitted it today, and it fixed the issue!
Still going on the little Datsun, it got some new shoes recently...
Been wanting some vintage rally wheels for it, did you know that the Datsun A10 model (Stanza/Violet/160J) is Nissan's most successful rally car of all time?
If fact they are still winning rallies in quite a few places in the world to this day. (Including Australia with another outright win added this year.)
I would have loved to get some original 6 spoke Enkie rally wheels like the factory supported cars had, (see pic above) but they run about $2000 a set when/if you can find them, but I did manage to find some vintage Australian made Globe Rally wheels from the same time period and in fact they are the same wheels as many private rally entries used at the time, and still do to this day.
They were pretty rough though, as they were still used for rallies up until earlier this year:
A decent quantity of paint stripper and some elbow grease got them to this point:
Then some time with a nylon drill brush got them finished prepped for paint:
Epoxy etch primer came next, which is where I found how hard it is to spray between those many spokes, so when it came time for top coat I went in with a brush first:
Then 2 full color coats followed by 2 coats of that awesome high solids clear I found:
Better than new!
My next issue was finding the correct shank nuts and tapered washers to suit them, it was easy to find nuts with flat washers in the right thread pattern, or the right 90 degree taper washers but with the wrong thread nuts (usually to fit Series 2 Ford Escorts!) but only one place had the correct tapered washers available to suit the standard Datsun thread nuts, problem was they wanted $60 plus shipping from the UK and a 4 week wait time...
Thankfully I have that small hobby lathe my Dad gave me...
I spent $4.60 on standard flat washers and 45 minutes on the lathe to make these:
A quick run into town with some secondhand tires I got cheap and I could then fit them to the car!
Much better!
Been wanting some vintage rally wheels for it, did you know that the Datsun A10 model (Stanza/Violet/160J) is Nissan's most successful rally car of all time?
If fact they are still winning rallies in quite a few places in the world to this day. (Including Australia with another outright win added this year.)
I would have loved to get some original 6 spoke Enkie rally wheels like the factory supported cars had, (see pic above) but they run about $2000 a set when/if you can find them, but I did manage to find some vintage Australian made Globe Rally wheels from the same time period and in fact they are the same wheels as many private rally entries used at the time, and still do to this day.
They were pretty rough though, as they were still used for rallies up until earlier this year:
A decent quantity of paint stripper and some elbow grease got them to this point:
Then some time with a nylon drill brush got them finished prepped for paint:
Epoxy etch primer came next, which is where I found how hard it is to spray between those many spokes, so when it came time for top coat I went in with a brush first:
Then 2 full color coats followed by 2 coats of that awesome high solids clear I found:
Better than new!
My next issue was finding the correct shank nuts and tapered washers to suit them, it was easy to find nuts with flat washers in the right thread pattern, or the right 90 degree taper washers but with the wrong thread nuts (usually to fit Series 2 Ford Escorts!) but only one place had the correct tapered washers available to suit the standard Datsun thread nuts, problem was they wanted $60 plus shipping from the UK and a 4 week wait time...
Thankfully I have that small hobby lathe my Dad gave me...
I spent $4.60 on standard flat washers and 45 minutes on the lathe to make these:
A quick run into town with some secondhand tires I got cheap and I could then fit them to the car!
Much better!
Of course if you are going for the rally look, you need those big spot lights!
Managed to find some original French made Cibie Super Oscar's on Facebook marketplace, these are the same as what Nissan/Datsun factory cars used through the 70's and 80's. The same ones are seen on that factory rally car pic I posted first in the last post.
I still can't believe I managed to find a pair in my price range!
The guy I bought these off actually bought them new in 1973 for his rally car, so they even have pedigree, very cool. Looking forward to getting the front bar made and getting these fitted up.
In the meantime I am fitting a bigger radiator to the Stanza, the old one had developed a leak, and I figured if I was changing it I may as well go bigger to compensate for the lights in front of it and finally make the change to electric fans instead of the power robbing fixed fan it has now.
The old radiator:
The new radiator is from a Toyota Camry, much wider core, but I whipped up some mounts to hold the Toyota rubber isolators and it fits in pretty good:
Once I test run it all with the standard fan I will fit up the original Camry electric fans:
I bought a Davies Craig digital electric fan controller to run it all, very cool, you just push a button to set on and off temperatures and it will switch one fan on 10 seconds before the other so it doesn't suck the huge starting currents at the same time.
Running those fans and those big lights, I might need to look at a bigger alternator soon...
Managed to find some original French made Cibie Super Oscar's on Facebook marketplace, these are the same as what Nissan/Datsun factory cars used through the 70's and 80's. The same ones are seen on that factory rally car pic I posted first in the last post.
I still can't believe I managed to find a pair in my price range!
The guy I bought these off actually bought them new in 1973 for his rally car, so they even have pedigree, very cool. Looking forward to getting the front bar made and getting these fitted up.
In the meantime I am fitting a bigger radiator to the Stanza, the old one had developed a leak, and I figured if I was changing it I may as well go bigger to compensate for the lights in front of it and finally make the change to electric fans instead of the power robbing fixed fan it has now.
The old radiator:
The new radiator is from a Toyota Camry, much wider core, but I whipped up some mounts to hold the Toyota rubber isolators and it fits in pretty good:
Once I test run it all with the standard fan I will fit up the original Camry electric fans:
I bought a Davies Craig digital electric fan controller to run it all, very cool, you just push a button to set on and off temperatures and it will switch one fan on 10 seconds before the other so it doesn't suck the huge starting currents at the same time.
Running those fans and those big lights, I might need to look at a bigger alternator soon...
Good to see you're still workin' on something. That first picture threw me for a loop! I thought, Wow he's really doin' the rally up right with that paint scheme! Hehe, ya got me. Cool ride, I still remember gearheading my mom's B210, and later my own 280Z.
Carl.
Carl.
My experience with Datsun's is as follows. Had a friend that had a 4door 510 that he drove through high school. After high school it became a gravel road bomber for a group of my friends (I was in the military at the time). I came back on leave, and went out for some bombing, and promptly rolled it (my first rollover 
). Flipped it over, got it started...but, she just wasn't the same anymore 
. Fast forward a few years...I get out of the military, come back to the hometown, and helped the same friend swap a 440, 4spd, and dana 60 rear into his '71 Roadrunner. He still had the 318, auto, and 8 3/4" rear...and, still had the 510 carcass 
. The monster that resulted made quite the gravel roader...but, it turns out that even weenie 318 torque and Datsun 510 chassis' don't get along well...it started potato chipping 
. Sold to a high schooler during a 510 resurgence...he was going to fix it up for the street...uh, good luck kid ...never saw it again 
.
gravel road bomber = redneck rally car
Jason
). Flipped it over, got it started...but, she just wasn't the same anymore . Fast forward a few years...I get out of the military, come back to the hometown, and helped the same friend swap a 440, 4spd, and dana 60 rear into his '71 Roadrunner. He still had the 318, auto, and 8 3/4" rear...and, still had the 510 carcass . The monster that resulted made quite the gravel roader...but, it turns out that even weenie 318 torque and Datsun 510 chassis' don't get along well...it started potato chipping . Sold to a high schooler during a 510 resurgence...he was going to fix it up for the street...uh, good luck kid ...never saw it again .gravel road bomber = redneck rally car
Jason
I am half thinking about the paint Carl!
Sounds like fun! I imagine a 318 would twist up a lightweight Datsun!My experience with Datsun's is as follows. Had a friend that had a 4door 510 that he drove through high school. After high school it became a gravel road bomber for a group of my friends (I was in the military at the time). I came back on leave, and went out for some bombing, and promptly rolled it (my first rollover
gravel road bomber = redneck rally car
Jason
Finally got a quick video of the exhaust, phone camera/microphone doesn't really do it justice though:
Definitely has a ‘yeah, I’m not stock’ rumble to it!
Carry on!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Carry on!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Buying those wheels may have been a mistake...
They gave me just a taste of the rally look, and I like it!
I already bought those cool lights as you saw further up the page, been designing the bar to mount them on, been researching rally flares, (still available thanks to the huge following of these guys locally, +they tend to nudge trees occasionally and need replacements!) been looking at suppliers of mudflap materials, looking at possible paint schemes, and decided that the car needed a suspension lift...
Took some measurements, the front being more critical to get right, I started there. It had a full 6" of droop from ride height, plenty of room to move...
Next thing you know, this happened:
Somehow the struts jumped out and landed on my work bench, it would not be right to forsake the opportunity to play with them a little before bolting them back in!
Removed the gland nuts and pulled the inserts out, then carefully freed the lower spring mounts from the strut tube:
Used some painters tape to get a nice even line and spacing before marking a new location:
Slid the mount back on and welded it up!
Here is a pic comparing the modified and standard:
Finished the other one, painted them up, reassembled the struts using spring compressors and reinstalled:
The end result was just under 2" over standard (the springs I had were 1" lowered, so by lifting the mounts roughly 2" and the angles and math and trigonometry (basically the wheel sits further from the suspension mount than the spring, so any lift is magnified) resulted in just under 3" over what I had.)
Then on to the rear, which in theory is much easier being solid rear axle, triangulated 4 link and coil springs.
I already had these longer red springs I got from somewhere(?), here they are compared to the lowered springs that were in the car:
Fitted them up and stood back only to find that because they were softer than the others, it only raised the car about 1", guessing they are probably stock Stanza springs...
I was OK with that, and quite willing to cut the spring mounts off the diff and space them up, but the springs were so soft, it rode horribly!
My next option was to refit the lowered springs with 2" spacers, but I already didn't like them, because they rode way too hard, it has always been something I wanted to fix...
Suddenly remembered I had kept the diff from the series 2 910 Bluebird I stripped for the 5 speed, it ran rear struts but maybe the springs would work?
Turns out yes!
Maybe another 3/8" higher in the back would be nice, but I will drive it as is for a while before committing to making spacers, the ride is great, so much better than before! So much easier to get in and out of too, I am not as young as I once was! Next step, wheel alignment.
Looking at that pic, I notice that the roof rack is not level, it sits lower at the back, making it look like the car is lower at the back... Might be just perfect as it is!
Now, about those flares... The aftermarket ones sit 3" wider each side, and in fact sometimes look a bit silly unless the car is running some seriously meaty rally rubber...
I might need to make my own, but a bit narrower...
Stay tuned...
They gave me just a taste of the rally look, and I like it!
I already bought those cool lights as you saw further up the page, been designing the bar to mount them on, been researching rally flares, (still available thanks to the huge following of these guys locally, +they tend to nudge trees occasionally and need replacements!) been looking at suppliers of mudflap materials, looking at possible paint schemes, and decided that the car needed a suspension lift...
Took some measurements, the front being more critical to get right, I started there. It had a full 6" of droop from ride height, plenty of room to move...
Next thing you know, this happened:
Somehow the struts jumped out and landed on my work bench, it would not be right to forsake the opportunity to play with them a little before bolting them back in!
Removed the gland nuts and pulled the inserts out, then carefully freed the lower spring mounts from the strut tube:
Used some painters tape to get a nice even line and spacing before marking a new location:
Slid the mount back on and welded it up!
Here is a pic comparing the modified and standard:
Finished the other one, painted them up, reassembled the struts using spring compressors and reinstalled:
The end result was just under 2" over standard (the springs I had were 1" lowered, so by lifting the mounts roughly 2" and the angles and math and trigonometry (basically the wheel sits further from the suspension mount than the spring, so any lift is magnified) resulted in just under 3" over what I had.)
Then on to the rear, which in theory is much easier being solid rear axle, triangulated 4 link and coil springs.
I already had these longer red springs I got from somewhere(?), here they are compared to the lowered springs that were in the car:
Fitted them up and stood back only to find that because they were softer than the others, it only raised the car about 1", guessing they are probably stock Stanza springs...
I was OK with that, and quite willing to cut the spring mounts off the diff and space them up, but the springs were so soft, it rode horribly!
My next option was to refit the lowered springs with 2" spacers, but I already didn't like them, because they rode way too hard, it has always been something I wanted to fix...
Suddenly remembered I had kept the diff from the series 2 910 Bluebird I stripped for the 5 speed, it ran rear struts but maybe the springs would work?
Turns out yes!
Maybe another 3/8" higher in the back would be nice, but I will drive it as is for a while before committing to making spacers, the ride is great, so much better than before! So much easier to get in and out of too, I am not as young as I once was! Next step, wheel alignment.
Looking at that pic, I notice that the roof rack is not level, it sits lower at the back, making it look like the car is lower at the back... Might be just perfect as it is!
Now, about those flares... The aftermarket ones sit 3" wider each side, and in fact sometimes look a bit silly unless the car is running some seriously meaty rally rubber...
I might need to make my own, but a bit narrower...
Stay tuned...
Found this pic of a Rally Stanza using the narrower Australian style flares:
Love the width, but not a fan of the design, it makes the wheel arches look smaller, I might meld the Japanese and Australian designs, Japanese style at Australian width...
Love the width, but not a fan of the design, it makes the wheel arches look smaller, I might meld the Japanese and Australian designs, Japanese style at Australian width...
Been thinking a lot about flares, I can get the big factory style ones for $470 delivered, I have been offered a new old stock set of the Australian style flares for $170 delivered, but neither of them really suits what I want...
As I mentioned before, I want the style and height of the factory ones, but at the width of the narrow ones... No option but to build my own I guess!
Looked at a lot of photos of the factory style ones and started drawing them out, think I got pretty close:
I am surprised by how much gets cut at the back, always knew it would be more than the front, but now I understand why the rally Stanzas always have such a huge wheel gap in the rear!
Paintshop mock-ups:
I like it! I might bring them down about 1/4" at the back, but other than that, pretty happy...
As I mentioned before, I want the style and height of the factory ones, but at the width of the narrow ones... No option but to build my own I guess!
Looked at a lot of photos of the factory style ones and started drawing them out, think I got pretty close:
I am surprised by how much gets cut at the back, always knew it would be more than the front, but now I understand why the rally Stanzas always have such a huge wheel gap in the rear!
Paintshop mock-ups:
I like it! I might bring them down about 1/4" at the back, but other than that, pretty happy...
The Renaissance Man
__CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster)
Staff member
Moderator
Pro Member
Been wondering where you've been lately. I had forgot about your car project. Looking good!
Thanks TRM!
Made the basic flare shape out of some box tube, but now it is time to figure out if I have the guts to cut the car up!
Found out that it is surprisingly rust free, here are pics of the inside of the rear wheel wells, usually the first place to go:
That flaky bit there is just mud, no rust to be seen...
Anyway here is the basic shape in position on the front:
And here is how much would need to be cut: (The upper line is the cut line, the lower line is where the flare finishes.)
The front doesn't worry me much, both fenders have dents and are fairly easily replaced, the back is a different story, a lot of steel removed, even inside the door opening:
Thankfully I wouldn't have to cut into the seal area, but it runs really close!
That amount of cut worried me, so I asked the rally guys to show me pics of how much they cut when doing the big flares:
That is far more than I was planning, a few others chimed in that they did the same on their street cars, so I asked about if they added extra bracing back in seeing as they don't have roll cages like the rally guys to make up for the possible strength removal, they said no, and no flex issues either...
There is a brace across the back floor under the seat, it connects the sills to two added rails further in that mount the upper suspension links and then continue on back from there, the sheetmetal they cut away is not structural. I got underneath mine and confirmed what they were saying, that is when I noticed the lack of rust...
Decision time:
Leave it uncut and run no flares and probably never really be happy about it, or add flares and go all out with the rally accessories and paint but at the cost of cutting up a surprisingly solid piece of old Japanese metal...
If it was a more collectible model, this decision would be fairly straight forward, I wouldn't cut it, and I would probably put the suspension back to stock.
Reality is though that the Stanza/A10 model is pretty unloved except by people who are into vintage rally, so my decision should be easy: Just do it. The loss of monetary value is minimal or non-existent unlike cutting up something more desirable.
My problem is knowing how hard it is to find a solid old car, and how hard it is to repair/replace rusted shells...
Found out that it is surprisingly rust free, here are pics of the inside of the rear wheel wells, usually the first place to go:
That flaky bit there is just mud, no rust to be seen...
Anyway here is the basic shape in position on the front:
And here is how much would need to be cut: (The upper line is the cut line, the lower line is where the flare finishes.)
The front doesn't worry me much, both fenders have dents and are fairly easily replaced, the back is a different story, a lot of steel removed, even inside the door opening:
Thankfully I wouldn't have to cut into the seal area, but it runs really close!
That amount of cut worried me, so I asked the rally guys to show me pics of how much they cut when doing the big flares:
That is far more than I was planning, a few others chimed in that they did the same on their street cars, so I asked about if they added extra bracing back in seeing as they don't have roll cages like the rally guys to make up for the possible strength removal, they said no, and no flex issues either...
There is a brace across the back floor under the seat, it connects the sills to two added rails further in that mount the upper suspension links and then continue on back from there, the sheetmetal they cut away is not structural. I got underneath mine and confirmed what they were saying, that is when I noticed the lack of rust...
Decision time:
Leave it uncut and run no flares and probably never really be happy about it, or add flares and go all out with the rally accessories and paint but at the cost of cutting up a surprisingly solid piece of old Japanese metal...
If it was a more collectible model, this decision would be fairly straight forward, I wouldn't cut it, and I would probably put the suspension back to stock.
Reality is though that the Stanza/A10 model is pretty unloved except by people who are into vintage rally, so my decision should be easy: Just do it. The loss of monetary value is minimal or non-existent unlike cutting up something more desirable.
My problem is knowing how hard it is to find a solid old car, and how hard it is to repair/replace rusted shells...
The Renaissance Man
__CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster)
Staff member
Moderator
Pro Member
Eventually it will be a pile of rust. Probably not in your lifetime, but eventually. Cut it up and have fun!
I agree withe @The Renaissance Man but if it makes you feel any better, you could keep the cut out sections so that it can be returned to original in the future if need be.
Its just a datsun...sawzall and torch away 
Jason
Jason
