The Renaissance Man
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(MBBO#05 Class 2) ★★★ ¡ʇdᴉɹɔs ǝɥʇ dᴉlℲ ★★★ (SOLD to finance exciting new venture!)
- Thread starter LukeTheJoker
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who knows might make a interesitng realistic detail , you could almost make some kind of box at the back with a door to service it
That looks so cool. Can you open that up but leave the disc inside and put the caliper on the disc to see how to best attach it? Looks like you could fab up a mount to weld to the inside wall of the case?..
Was late to the BO and have Been reading thru 5 pages of insanely cool fab work.
Some pretty neat engineering Luke!
Some pretty neat engineering Luke!
Thanks TRM!
Oooo! Make it a Winters quickchange style, I have thought about it, but making up that box would be a lot of work!who knows might make a interesitng realistic detail , you could almost make some kind of box at the back with a door to service it
Thanks MC!
Yep!That looks so cool. Can you open that up but leave the disc inside and put the caliper on the disc to see how to best attach it? Looks like you could fab up a mount to weld to the inside wall of the case?..
It doesn't quite fit without any cutting, and I think the mounts will interfere with the chain, but I have the beginnings of a plan to deal with the issues...
Luke.
Here is the plan I have come up with:
Remove the current mounts from the calipers and split them where they bolt together over the disc, shave 3mm out of that clamp area on the outside piece, and make up a new mount out of 3mm steel that fits in there and has a hole to fit the housing stopper in. It becomes the new mount for the caliper and will then be bolted or welded to the outside shell.
The steel piece is the red piece on this mock up:
Hopefully the only cutting I will have to do to the housing then will be to allow the cables and chains through...
See if it works next time I am out there!
Luke.
Remove the current mounts from the calipers and split them where they bolt together over the disc, shave 3mm out of that clamp area on the outside piece, and make up a new mount out of 3mm steel that fits in there and has a hole to fit the housing stopper in. It becomes the new mount for the caliper and will then be bolted or welded to the outside shell.
The steel piece is the red piece on this mock up:
Hopefully the only cutting I will have to do to the housing then will be to allow the cables and chains through...
See if it works next time I am out there!
Luke.
I don't want to burst your bubble but how are you going to adjust your brakes with it all assembled for riding?
Carl.
sent from a crowded phonebooth...
Carl.
sent from a crowded phonebooth...
They will be adjusted before assembly, fine adjustments can be done on the cable tension outside the pumpkin.
Luke.
The Renaissance Man
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The photo with your hand holding the caliper provides a sense of scale for the size of the pumpkin. Before that, I thought that it was much larger. Looks like you will have just enough room for the brakes!
Just enough by the looks of it! It is only a small 8" round tank, hopefully when it has a frame attached to it that proportions will come right!
Thank you Sir!
Luke.
Hmmm, now you have me thinking, I just assumed it would need to be full custom to make it all work, but as long as it could handle the dual drive, which most frames can, any frame could work with just a little modification...
It will probably be a full custom anyway, and it will be different to the one I want to do a limited run of.
The limited run frame is really just a reason to build a jig and get some custom dropouts laser cut, maybe a little to prove to myself that I could do a production frame.
There is no money in custom bikes in Australia and shipping overseas would be stupidly expensive, so that's why I was only planning on 5 or so frame and fork sets and just offering them to Australian RRB members at cost + shipping. They can then be finished off using parts from just about any 20" bike...
The basic design will be a cross between the frame TRM is using and the basic idea in my 'Back40' bike, sizing from the city bike frame, style from Back 40, so long frame to suit adults but with 20" wheels, and twin top bars, with a looptail rear.
I am sure with a bit of work and working out shipping deals I could find a market for 20 or so frame sets, but I really don't want to make money from it, and I just don't need the stress, bike building is my hobby, not a job...
It is all just an idea at the moment, still not sure it will happen.
Luke.
It will probably be a full custom anyway, and it will be different to the one I want to do a limited run of.
The limited run frame is really just a reason to build a jig and get some custom dropouts laser cut, maybe a little to prove to myself that I could do a production frame.
There is no money in custom bikes in Australia and shipping overseas would be stupidly expensive, so that's why I was only planning on 5 or so frame and fork sets and just offering them to Australian RRB members at cost + shipping. They can then be finished off using parts from just about any 20" bike...
The basic design will be a cross between the frame TRM is using and the basic idea in my 'Back40' bike, sizing from the city bike frame, style from Back 40, so long frame to suit adults but with 20" wheels, and twin top bars, with a looptail rear.
I am sure with a bit of work and working out shipping deals I could find a market for 20 or so frame sets, but I really don't want to make money from it, and I just don't need the stress, bike building is my hobby, not a job...
It is all just an idea at the moment, still not sure it will happen.
Luke.
Fv2
Don't know what I'm doing, gonna do it anyway.
If Carl's friend can do this, I'm sure you can work a stock frame into it.... but we all love an LTJ frame.
I look forward to your sale frames, maybe I'll figure out a way to squeak one by customs.
Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
Got the brake modifications and mounts done:
The difference between a modified caliper and the unmodified:
Shaved down rear piece compared to standard:
The new mounts:
They fit well:
As I was finishing up I realised in order to get the hub sections off the calipers would need removing, but they would be really annoying to assemble onto the mounts in there, so I think I will add a flange to the mounts with bolt holes and bolt them in complete rather than welding the mounts in and having to assemble the calipers in there.
Luke.
The difference between a modified caliper and the unmodified:
Shaved down rear piece compared to standard:
The new mounts:
They fit well:
As I was finishing up I realised in order to get the hub sections off the calipers would need removing, but they would be really annoying to assemble onto the mounts in there, so I think I will add a flange to the mounts with bolt holes and bolt them in complete rather than welding the mounts in and having to assemble the calipers in there.
Luke.
Well done!! 
Can i suggest maybe even welding them in and cutting out the mount and some housing around it. As i belive you'd still run into same issue with getting cliper and mount around the disk. Same as u stated would do, but, weld in a flang you could bolt the piece back into. This way you can rear load it onto the disc.
Seems like a reasonable amount of "extra" work to give yourself a bit of break on assembly. Id weld in the mount and drill out bolt holes. Id cut out the 2 sides w a cut off outside those holes. Then id drill and tap a flange for inside housing, bolt it up and tack in place. Cut loose the top and bottom of the doors. Even making cable guides enter through there could look cool. Minimal fab lots of variables and could look very intentional / would look cool along with the dual drive chains.
*spelling... sure its still bad but not make eyes bleed bad.. srry.
** oops the drives are symetrical not the disks my bad... again luke is miles ahead..
Get em dude
Seems like a reasonable amount of "extra" work to give yourself a bit of break on assembly. Id weld in the mount and drill out bolt holes. Id cut out the 2 sides w a cut off outside those holes. Then id drill and tap a flange for inside housing, bolt it up and tack in place. Cut loose the top and bottom of the doors. Even making cable guides enter through there could look cool. Minimal fab lots of variables and could look very intentional / would look cool along with the dual drive chains.
*spelling... sure its still bad but not make eyes bleed bad.. srry.
** oops the drives are symetrical not the disks my bad... again luke is miles ahead..
Get em dude
Last edited:
Wow nice work. Moving right along with this. Great idea on the bolt-in flanges. Might want to ad an extra long barrel screw somewhere on the cable for a little more adjustment range.
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