(MBBO#05 Class 2) Flashback GT - Done!

[The Renaissance Man]

Good plan, I like the bare metal also. Plus you don't have to be so careful with it!

 

[OneHorsePower]

I've been thinking a more realistic approach is to finish it off in bare metal. I have other wheels that fit a bare metal build better and have a coaster brake. This would save the time needed to add posts and sort out the v-brakes and cable routing required with the GT wheels.

Good plan, I like the bare metal also. Plus you don't have to be so careful with it!

+1 for bare metal , the steel already look pretty darn good

 

[OddJob]

++1 on the bare metal. It's prototypical look begs for an unfinished surface. This bike is really cool! Well done from concept to reality.

 

[GuitarlCarl]

Bare metal with DupliColor Effex clearcoat. It has a fine multicolor shimmer to it in the sunlight and when there's no light it looks bare metal, no powder dots...

The picture does it no justice, it's better in person.

Carl.

 

[pholTmonx]

Plus one bare just because you can.... Show it off proud nekid

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

Clear powdercoat in different sheens was my choice

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JNOACK]

Thanks, I'm really liking it better with the added reinforcement too.

Deadline... there's a deadline!? Well, in the spirit of a bike never really being finished, maybe.

Feels like I've just now gotten the big picture of the frame's design dialed in. Actually I just have. I really enjoy getting into the finish prep, paint and final details. I wouldn't be able to do much of that by the deadline without it becoming work. I've been thinking a more realistic approach is to finish it off in bare metal. I have other wheels that fit a bare metal build better and have a coaster brake. This would save the time needed to add posts and sort out the v-brakes and cable routing required with the GT wheels. Still have some finish welding, a seat pan that needs modification and upholstering, forks that need the steering tube extended, etc, etc. Long answer, same as the short, maybe. But that would be a more enjoyable approach and goal. I'd always have the option of revisiting the finish details later after the deadline.

DEADLINE is a bad word. Shhhh.... I love this frame and I really hope you can get it all done!

 

[tjwilson]

Bare metal it is! I've done some looking around on options for sealing the surface. Looks like a clear coat would work best, as far as leaving the option open to go to paint at a later date? Read some horror stories about trying to clean off boiled linseed oil or WD-40.

No images but, I did get a spare set of wheels on it and was able to go for a ride! Felt real solid. No movement on the frame. Only issue is the tight front sprocket clearance, easy to fix.

Knew the seat would be time consuming to modify and get exactly what I wanted. Wasn't disappointed. Spent this weekend reshaping existing inner and outer seat pans and, still have a ways to go. Tick... tick... tick... tick... tick...

Starting point, cover and foam removed.

Beginning to reshape the back of the seat and narrow the sides.

Upper pan back filled, inner pan in-process.

Start of seat front reshaping.

 

[pholTmonx]

When Luke or the mod squad arrives, I'll beg again for the super deluxe like like feature....
Simply awsome.

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[LukeTheJoker]

When Luke or the mod squad arrives, I'll beg again for the super deluxe like like feature....
Simply awsome.

You gotta suggest it to @Rat Rod if you want something, otherwise I will just keep posting the Glove and Boots video...

Bare metal it is! I've done some looking around on options for sealing the surface. Looks like a clear coat would work best, as far as leaving the option open to go to paint at a later date? Read some horror stories about trying to clean off boiled linseed oil or WD-40.

No images but, I did get a spare set of wheels on it and was able to go for a ride! Felt real solid. No movement on the frame. Only issue is the tight front sprocket clearance, easy to fix.

Knew the seat would be time consuming to modify and get exactly what I wanted. Wasn't disappointed. Spent this weekend reshaping existing inner and outer seat pans and, still have a ways to go. Tick... tick... tick... tick... tick...

Starting point, cover and foam removed.

View attachment 37651

Beginning to reshape the back of the seat and narrow the sides.

View attachment 37652

Upper pan back filled, inner pan in-process.

View attachment 37653

Start of seat front reshaping.

View attachment 37654

Seat looks awesome! Nice work!
Glad the test ride went well, full steam ahead!

Luke.

 

[pholTmonx]

You gotta suggest it to @Rat Rod if you want something, otherwise I will just keep posting the Glove and Boots video...


Seat looks awesome! Nice work!
Glad the test ride went well, full steam ahead!

Luke.

Not gonna lie I'm more than satisfied with the glove and boots clip thank you!!!

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Not gonna lie I'm more than satisfied with the glove and boots clip thank you!!!

Here it is again:



Luke.

 

[franconuevo]

Nice build TJ .... really like this design

you talked about grinding the welds down smooth so you don't have to use as much filler.
Now , it seems like you're going bare steel... that's mighty brave move.. . So.., what about the bazillion welds you have on the bike..will you grind them super smooth or use some sort of grayish filler like Jbweld...? Curious...

Super Job

Franco

 

[tjwilson]

Nice build TJ .... really like this design

you talked about grinding the welds down smooth so you don't have to use as much filler.
Now , it seems like you're going bare steel... that's mighty brave move.. . So.., what about the bazillion welds you have on the bike..will you grind them super smooth or use some sort of grayish filler like Jbweld...? Curious...

View attachment 37963

Super Job

Franco

Thank you very much!

Your question is well timed. I've been struggling with what the final-final finish will be. Bare metal originally came to mind as a shortcut and way to have a completed bike by the end of the build off. I could always revisit the final finish later when I had more time. I've had good results in the past using plastic filler for a smooth painted finish and had planned to do the same. That fit with what the initial vision for the build was. But, the build has taken a twist or two and the frame's design has become more muscular. A polished painted finish doesn't seem like the best choice anymore. Especially after looking back at the last set of photos of the frame by itself. The comments those received, to me, seem to confirm that impression.

Ultimately for a bare metal build I'd like to have perfect welds that could be left as is. Don't have the welding skill right now to do that! Not yet anyway ;-) Grinding the welds completely smooth would probably weaken the joints too much. From what I understand any grinding of a weld tends to weaken the joint. If I had used thicker tubing at the start though that would be more of an option. Adding weld to then grind down would probably weaken the surrounding area of the tube too much, again making a weaker connection.

For the build off I plan to finish the welds similar to what I've done already around the frame head tube and bottom bracket. It will be more of a rough bare metal finish.

Now for after the build off, I'm still researching. For some reason jbweld doesn't appeal to me. Don't know why. If plastic filler seems fine under paint what's wrong with a metal epoxy? I suppose brazing might be an option. I don't have the equipment for that on hand though. Also don't know if that would introduce a lot of heat. Similar to adding additional weld beads? I'm also looking at solder used with acid flux. Cleaning off the flux residue thoroughly to prevent corrosion seems a concern. Not sure how I would build up any kind of thickness with it either. But in the end, a bare metal finsh with smooth blended transitions between frame parts would be the goal.

If anyone has any suggestions on a best approach I'd be grateful to hear them!

 

[The Renaissance Man]

This might be worth looking into.



http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1010sr-eastwood-lead-free-body-solder-kit/

 

[pholTmonx]

This might be worth looking into.



http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1010sr-eastwood-lead-free-body-solder-kit/

Thank you very much!

Your question is well timed. I've been struggling with what the final-final finish will be. Bare metal originally came to mind as a shortcut and way to have a completed bike by the end of the build off. I could always revisit the final finish later when I had more time. I've had good results in the past using plastic filler for a smooth painted finish and had planned to do the same. That fit with what the initial vision for the build was. But, the build has taken a twist or two and the frame's design has become more muscular. A polished painted finish doesn't seem like the best choice anymore. Especially after looking back at the last set of photos of the frame by itself. The comments those received, to me, seem to confirm that impression.

Ultimately for a bare metal build I'd like to have perfect welds that could be left as is. Don't have the welding skill right now to do that! Not yet anyway ;-) Grinding the welds completely smooth would probably weaken the joints too much. From what I understand any grinding of a weld tends to weaken the joint. If I had used thicker tubing at the start though that would be more of an option. Adding weld to then grind down would probably weaken the surrounding area of the tube too much, again making a weaker connection.

For the build off I plan to finish the welds similar to what I've done already around the frame head tube and bottom bracket. It will be more of a rough bare metal finish.

Now for after the build off, I'm still researching. For some reason jbweld doesn't appeal to me. Don't know why. If plastic filler seems fine under paint what's wrong with a metal epoxy? I suppose brazing might be an option. I don't have the equipment for that on hand though. Also don't know if that would introduce a lot of heat. Similar to adding additional weld beads? I'm also looking at solder used with acid flux. Cleaning off the flux residue thoroughly to prevent corrosion seems a concern. Not sure how I would build up any kind of thickness with it either. But in the end, a bare metal finsh with smooth blended transitions between frame parts would be the goal.

If anyone has any suggestions on a best approach I'd be grateful to hear them!

Leading is an option, but honestly I think a bit a pain in trying address tight tubes... You have to work it with a paddle and try get it in there.. I think some areas a bit tight for a first go.

Brazing isn't that bad, I do it with a Tig so I cheat.

There is aluminum filler works like Bondo same properties etc but not pink or green is a metallic grey when cleared.easier to work then JB weld..

 

[GuitarlCarl]

I filled welds, dents and holes with leaded plumbing solder on a past build off bike and it was easy. I used a plumbers acetylene hand torch, and lots of flux paste. Smoothed with a file and sandpaper. Primed and painted no problem (after washing off the flux) But it would have worked bare metal, looked pretty good.

Carl.

 

[franconuevo]

Thank you very much!

Your question is well timed. I've been struggling with what the final-final finish will be. Bare metal originally came to mind as a shortcut and way to have a completed bike by the end of the build off. I could always revisit the final finish later when I had more time. I've had good results in the past using plastic filler for a smooth painted finish and had planned to do the same. That fit with what the initial vision for the build was. But, the build has taken a twist or two and the frame's design has become more muscular. A polished painted finish doesn't seem like the best choice anymore. Especially after looking back at the last set of photos of the frame by itself. The comments those received, to me, seem to confirm that impression.

Ultimately for a bare metal build I'd like to have perfect welds that could be left as is. Don't have the welding skill right now to do that! Not yet anyway ;-) Grinding the welds completely smooth would probably weaken the joints too much. From what I understand any grinding of a weld tends to weaken the joint. If I had used thicker tubing at the start though that would be more of an option. Adding weld to then grind down would probably weaken the surrounding area of the tube too much, again making a weaker connection.

For the build off I plan to finish the welds similar to what I've done already around the frame head tube and bottom bracket. It will be more of a rough bare metal finish.

Now for after the build off, I'm still researching. For some reason jbweld doesn't appeal to me. Don't know why. If plastic filler seems fine under paint what's wrong with a metal epoxy? I suppose brazing might be an option. I don't have the equipment for that on hand though. Also don't know if that would introduce a lot of heat. Similar to adding additional weld beads? I'm also looking at solder used with acid flux. Cleaning off the flux residue thoroughly to prevent corrosion seems a concern. Not sure how I would build up any kind of thickness with it either. But in the end, a bare metal finsh with smooth blended transitions between frame parts would be the goal.

If anyone has any suggestions on a best approach I'd be grateful to hear them!

All good concerns about the welding TJ. I'm a still 'novice' welder, using fluxcore, but I was welding some joints yesterday, and man, what improvement over when I first started out last spring. you using mig?

I now get the penetration I want, and know the settings by feel now , so I no longer worry about poor or weak joints...but , they still aren't real 'pretty' without a lot of sanding and filing, ya know?

Your welds actually are looking great with the finishing you did. I don't know maybe just a little hand sanding with fine paper may be all you need..but I agree, taking them down 'too far' it does weaken the joint. Globbing on more weld- Ive done that, it just creates more work that isn't 'fun' work. lol It's sortof like getting a decent smooth bondo joint, and then starting over with another heap of bondo.

I too would be leary of adding more heat...it's bound to pull something out of alignment..especially on all of those little 'bridge' joints on that beautiful frame.

I like what PhilTmonx said above about the aluminum filler...I was going to try that on some bars that I welded together, but decided to just let the bars go a little crusty rusty on that build.

I saw one post of someone smoothing out JB weld with some water and his finger..looked to make a super smooth joint...and you wouldn't have to go real thick...Maybe try a little clear on just one of your sanded joints..clear over JB weld, and clear on aluminum putty on a joint underneath or on the bottom somewhere not that visible see what looks best...

I hear you, it's probably pretty tempting to paint it...but that is just such a sweepingly beautiful frame..I know my mind can't picture it anything other than bare steel either....
again...

franco

 

[tjwilson]

Thank you all for the input.

This might be worth looking into.



http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1010sr-eastwood-lead-free-body-solder-kit/

This just might be the answer! Certainly worth a close look.

Leading is an option, but honestly I think a bit a pain in trying address tight tubes... You have to work it with a paddle and try get it in there.. I think some areas a bit tight for a first go.

Brazing isn't that bad, I do it with a Tig so I cheat.

There is aluminum filler works like Bondo same properties etc but not pink or green is a metallic grey when cleared.easier to work then JB weld..

Another thought I had with leading is a possible issue with the solder becoming fluid again, on the opposite tube side, when trying to finish off a joint. Might be a steep learning curve. I'll have to do some research and find aluminum filler to give a try.

I filled welds, dents and holes with leaded plumbing solder on a past build off bike and it was easy. I used a plumbers acetylene hand torch, and lots of flux paste. Smoothed with a file and sandpaper. Primed and painted no problem (after washing off the flux) But it would have worked bare metal, looked pretty good.

Carl.

I had been wondering if plumbing solder would be a workable solution. Gave it a try, see below for my result...