Fv2
Don't know what I'm doing, gonna do it anyway.
I had the bars pushed, that almost got me a knee full of gravel.
(MBBO#05 Class 2) J.C. Draggins..... Finished
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If you aint bleeding you didn't try hard enough as mom always liked to say....
But yeah key would be a porch spring stretched from an ibolt at the steer tube where a canti would mount then at the bottom tube u can use an adjustable binder to set the tension maybe $5 in parts... It'll help hold a raked front straight. It helps to mount it out farthest from the steer tube you can accept aesthetically so the movement is dramatized off the spring...
Only way I'll ride handless on few of my past builds... Even one handed can be sketchy both pushing and pulling to hold it straight, cause it's not a wheel wanting to twist, it's the whole fork trying pivot itself off the bikes
Fv2
Don't know what I'm doing, gonna do it anyway.
Tinkered around with a few stabilizer ideas.
A spring on one side is a bad idea.
I tried a spring in the center, similar to what OJ did on Beer Boy Delivery, it helped a bit.
I also tried a bunjee cord with a hook on each fork leg, that worked pretty well.
So then I mixed that idea with the center spring.
That took out nearly all of the steering issues, so now I just have to figure out an aesthetically pleasing way to mount all of this.
Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
A spring on one side is a bad idea.
I tried a spring in the center, similar to what OJ did on Beer Boy Delivery, it helped a bit.
I also tried a bunjee cord with a hook on each fork leg, that worked pretty well.
So then I mixed that idea with the center spring.
That took out nearly all of the steering issues, so now I just have to figure out an aesthetically pleasing way to mount all of this.
Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
oooooo, hydraulics....ooooooo....
Some duck tape and a mean look daring anyone to question the aesthetic always works for me. But consider trying mount that spring farther of the stem... It'll hold mutch more load from the leverage....Tinkered around with a few stabilizer ideas.
A spring on one side is a bad idea.
I tried a spring in the center, similar to what OJ did on Beer Boy Delivery, it helped a bit.
I also tried a bunjee cord with a hook on each fork leg, that worked pretty well.
So then I mixed that idea with the center spring.
That took out nearly all of the steering issues, so now I just have to figure out an aesthetically pleasing way to mount all of this.
Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
Like old school non powered steer cars had bus size steering wheels to compensate... If you get it to mount even a half inch father out of are doubling the amount the spring needs to travle for the same amount of steer.. jut like grabbing a stem and twisting a fork vs the amount of movement required for the same degree of twist from out at the bar ends
going to be a killer
I looked again... OK so you have the exadurated movement from mounting the spring forward. If was done off the back of the steer tube, the spring is full sprung and settled at straight.Some duck tape and a mean look daring anyone to question the aesthetic always works for me. But consider trying mount that spring farther of the stem... It'll hold mutch more load from the leverage....
Like old school non powered steer cars had bus size steering wheels to compensate... If you get it to mount even a half inch father out of are doubling the amount the spring needs to travle for the same amount of steer.. jut like grabbing a stem and twisting a fork vs the amount of movement required for the same degree of twist from out at the bar ends
Yours set up is actually relaxing the spring as it starts to twist....
If from rear ur stretching the spring to turn and it's settling point it straight ahead.... That's where I was saying could use a tensioner to adjust ho stiff it is either direction of steer.
Fv2
Don't know what I'm doing, gonna do it anyway.
I didn't want to weld anything just yet, I hooked the spring to the front of the lower tree.
I'll drill and tap a hole under the steer tube for an eye bolt, then move the bracket further back and see how that works.
I'll drill and tap a hole under the steer tube for an eye bolt, then move the bracket further back and see how that works.
Youll be good to rock...
The motion of leverage will make worlds of differance.
It'll clean up ur trees again also, bonus points, u could chop up an old bike pump and cut sleeves for the spring if want fully hide it as a shock
You will want to bend the eyebolt back down twords the down tube... As far back as it reaches from center is going to be the radius of the arch (the sweep like on bus steering wheels) and how much pull against the spring u will get... The down tube mount will give u tension but if it doesn't need need move then u have a strange harp feature more or less I guess. I think will be rad...
Perhaps a pair of trunk lid tension rods.
Fv2
Don't know what I'm doing, gonna do it anyway.
I've got a pair I wanted to try, but they seem a bit big.Perhaps a pair of trunk lid tension rods.
Someone posted a pic on TRM's raceliner thread, so I'm sure it'll work, just not sure where to mount them.
That could work if set up more how his spring mock up was set up, issue would be angle... Those things take a good amount of force to retract. That's why steering dampners are always so visable... Trunk lid rods are not dual action. So it's generally same idea but off push not pull
If ran dual out behind each leg and a shared pivot off down tube load them already half loaded they should technically counter balance themselves, would work....
Just a bit more complex also if one failed us get power assist bar flip potential.
I like the kiss method and hiding it better... I need remind myself daily....keep it simple stupid
Just a bit more complex also if one failed us get power assist bar flip potential.
I like the kiss method and hiding it better... I need remind myself daily....keep it simple stupid
Fv2
Don't know what I'm doing, gonna do it anyway.
Here's where I am with the spring.
You mentioned something about bending the eye bolt back toward the frame.
I'm wondering if it should be further forward? There isn't much movement in the spring as it sits in the pic.
But it is easy to ride now, and that's the point to all of this.
Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
You mentioned something about bending the eye bolt back toward the frame.
I'm wondering if it should be further forward? There isn't much movement in the spring as it sits in the pic.
But it is easy to ride now, and that's the point to all of this.
Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
Yes now it's not trying to pull to either side to relax... Reason I was suggesting the eye lay back twords the tube, is it makes the spring need to stretch as u turn the bars. The farther back the bigger the stretch and impact it will have. I suggest back so again spring under load and fully relaxed as I can get an wants to stay, will be straight ahead, if you go forward the spring will want to pull either side to settle as much as it can. The spring will be maximum extended if in front.... So it may seem balanced and sit straight but if u just nudge the bars it will want to snap to that side to compress the spring..Here's where I am with the spring.
You mentioned something about bending the eye bolt back toward the frame.
I'm wondering if it should be further forward? There isn't much movement in the spring as it sits in the pic.
But it is easy to ride now, and that's the point to all of this.
Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
Get the eye past the head tube... U add a half inch of arch the spring needs to stretch to turn same amount... That's where I was try use old school steering wheels and an example. Re farther away from center the more leverage u give the spring through its action cycle..
Hope that is a little more clear... Glad see u at it...
I'm positive this will pull off nicely...
