(MBBO-5 c2)⚜Ride O'clock⚜((FOR SALE))

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I love your mock up, the way the angles of the sissy bar is mirrored with the bars/forks is brilliant!

It looks like you have a straight angle down from your headtube to the front wheel? Will that cause a trail issue? You could always get around it by extending the distance from the bars/forks to the headstem, that would move the wheel forward but still preserve your cool angles.

Luke.
 
I love your mock up, the way the angles of the sissy bar is mirrored with the bars/forks is brilliant!

It looks like you have a straight angle down from your headtube to the front wheel? Will that cause a trail issue? You could always get around it by extending the distance from the bars/forks to the headstem, that would move the wheel forward but still preserve your cool angles.

Luke.
the head tube have 10* the fork -5* .. 10* is steep , but the bike is short so it should be good , it has pretty regular trail , about 2''
 
I love your mock up, the way the angles of the sissy bar is mirrored with the bars/forks is brilliant!

It looks like you have a straight angle down from your headtube to the front wheel? Will that cause a trail issue? You could always get around it by extending the distance from the bars/forks to the headstem, that would move the wheel forward but still preserve your cool angles.

Luke.
don't you see iam trying to start a trend of weird fork geometry here :rofl::giggle::bigsmile::)
 
fork is done!:nod:
here is the top peice i made yesterday and the threaded mounts on the legs
DSCN6857_zpszbgijnql.jpg
DSCN6853_zps5g78axqg.jpg

DSCN6855_zpszhyntgoh.jpg

Filing welds is not a easy talk ill tell ya, could not get evry corners with the grinder
 
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in order to start the frame i had to offset the hub to have a good chainline and clear the tire .
I added 1/16'' washers to the non drive side to do that , also removes the little loose i still had in the spokes (being too long) so i can tight them right

Before
DSCN6862_zpsit7vqkcb.jpg

After
DSCN6863_zpsgchag77t.jpg

should give me about 1/8'' clearance between the chain and tire.
now iam wondering if i can offset that axle or i have to get a longer one Or i ''cheat'' on the frame.:39:
 
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Beautiful design and implementation of your fork / bars. Trying to come up with a name for that....we have the 'spork' - spoon / fork combo...
Spork.jpg


I suppose we could go with 'bark' or 'fobar'....as long as it didn't get confused with 'fubar'.....:giggle:
 
Beautiful design and implementation of your fork / bars. Trying to come up with a name for that....we have the 'spork' - spoon / fork combo...
View attachment 33706

I suppose we could go with 'bark' or 'fobar'....as long as it didn't get confused with 'fubar'.....:giggle:
thanks!
-Rolling Apes ! :):bigsmile::thumbsup:
 
Name change! Now:
ⅅaily-ⅅ²
My daily opamine and Vitamine-ⅅ Fix


for going out having fun in the sun and getting my mood straight:nod:
 
Cut the rear dropouts and started welding the frame.
DSCN6865_zpsyrnfcgpr.jpg
DSCN6866_zpsq0touafx.jpg

iam having a little issue with the sissybar big to fit the frame tubings wich i quickly mesured at 5/8 ID at the steel shop, it tubing not piping , i should have known better , ill have to buy a drill 41/64 or 21/32 or find other tubings with the correct OD to fit
DSCN6864_zpse1ttosnn.jpg

Ill have to build a jig to finish this, i have to keep the rear tubings at the correct width for the sissybar/seat ,
slightly bent the lower tubes to clear the tire ,all to be abble to weld the head tube, too manny angles and mesurments to consider to eye ball it , much harder to build than a typical frame
DSCN6867_zpsjz3umnoh.jpg
 
Incredibly cool build. Love your out of the box style.

Beautiful design and implementation of your fork / bars. Trying to come up with a name for that....we have the 'spork' - spoon / fork combo...
View attachment 33706

I suppose we could go with 'bark' or 'fobar'....as long as it didn't get confused with 'fubar'.....:giggle:

Fork apes? Frapes?
 
You might want to consider drilling a weep hole at the bottom of the sissy bar tubes before you put it together. The way it is, it would be easy for water to get inside and have no where to get out. If you put the holes to the inside, it wouldn't be noticeable. (Just a thought).
 
You might want to consider drilling a weep hole at the bottom of the sissy bar tubes before you put it together. The way it is, it would be easy for water to get inside and have no where to get out. If you put the holes to the inside, it wouldn't be noticeable. (Just a thought).
Thanks for reminding me , i actually forgot to do it , i thought of doing it for air suction :thumbsup:
 
:hi:Today i found a way to start putting thing togetter without a jig :smug:

I mesured the sissybar spacing , cut 2 rods of the correct lenght , welded the back of the frame togetter with that correct spacing , played with it till everything was straight , welded the dropouts , then cut the bottom tab to place the wheel in , then cut the 4 tubes to fit the head tube at the correct angle :whew:
DSCN6868_zpsn5mjzgs1.jpg
DSCN6870_zpskgwnnl5x.jpg

little detail ( same as on the fork legs )
DSCN6872_zps7sbbqw5l.jpg
DSCN6874_zpssyit2h64.jpg

this is were iam at
chain, crank and tire all clear the lower bars :dance2:
DSCN6875_zps3ye3v2ih.jpg

Allot more to do. :nod:
 
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