Mid-80s Hevi-Duty value question.

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Yep. I've got two of those Husky wheels. Actually I have several from them in various sizes. Nice HD spokes, good finish. They hold up well

You may or may not have the need or want to get it trued up a bit better once you receive it. My last one had a bit of a wobble out of the box which isn't super unusual for cheaper factory processed wheels
 
How did you taco your rear wheel? I have single-wall vintage rim wheels that I built and would trust over the Husky wheels, such as these:

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I was riding down a paved hill and had to make a sharp 90° lefthand turn halfway down. I was coming in too hot and had to get on the brakes. I skidded around the turn when the bike felt like it wanted to go out from under me. I saved it, I'm guessing the sideways momentum is what bent the rim.
I took it to the bike shop, but they weren't optimistic about saving the rim. He said it would be better to just get a new one.

What about the Husky rims don't you like? Is there a better double wall rim available?
 
If you are looking for complete coaster brake wheels...then the Husky or Workman rims are probably best for the buck.

If you are looking for just the rims to lace a hub to...you can usually find SE double wall rims for cheap on ebay, planetbmx or other.
Right now I'm looking for a complete coaster brake wheel. I've never laced up a wheel before, so I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it. Perhaps I will buy a SE double wall rim Somewhere in the near future and use it to teach myself how to lace a rim. Then I will have either a spare or a wheel for another project. Probably a wheel for another project, LOL!
 
Sounds like a janky rim issue on the one you tacoed.

Let us know how the Husky wheel holds up to the riding you do. If you need to go with a custom rear wheel, I'd recommend Sun Rhyno Lite rims and DT Champion spokes to whatever hub you wish to run.
Thank you for this info. It's much appreciated. I will keep you posted.
 
If you are looking for just the rims to lace a hub to...you can usually find SE double wall rims for cheap on ebay, planetbmx or other.
Cheap and Dealing (ie. tacoed rear wheel type riding) do not work out well for the one Dealing sometimes. Personally, beyond a legit frame the wheelset is the most important part of the bicycle to me when building a bike to deal hard. The hoops and spokes are the most important part of that to me though low-end hubs and I disagree with each other, as the original Formula hub on my Cruiser Supreme can attest.

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Max, are you a Clydesdale?
 
Cheap and Dealing (ie. tacoed rear wheel type riding) do not work out well for the one Dealing sometimes. Personally, beyond a legit frame the wheelset is the most important part of the bicycle to me when building a bike to deal hard. The hoops and spokes are the most important part of that to me though low-end hubs and I disagree with each other, as the original Formula hub on my Cruiser Supreme can attest.

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Max, are you a Clydesdale?
I'm 6', 199lbs.
 
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On the cusp. Claim 199, and you are positively svelte.
I, coincidentally, am 199 pounds, and therefore, not a Clyde.
Don't ask me to weigh myself in the winter
 
My Clydesdale recommendations on bikes being built to deal on run down to 180# riders. There are components like the venerable Kona P2 fork that I would not put on a performance oriented bike for riders over 180#. I had a notion that Max was either a Clyde or within my Clyde build recommendation range. JRA tacoing single wall rim wheels is usually a giveaway.

Ride the Husky as you would and hopefully it gives you some good lifespan. Keep your bike clean and when wiping it down, inspect it regularly. I've had people question my motives for keeping my bikes so clean, but that's their issue. My concern is merely inspection, not vanity. This has paid off for me numerous times in catching failures before they became catastrophic, once again a couple of weeks ago on my Ventana El Chamuco.
 

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