Modern V brakes on a vintage frame

[Dowie Soetenga]

Those split shaft collars have a high tortional and axial load rating as well. For a 1/2" - 9/16" I.D. split shaft collar the clamp rating is 1,400 lbs to either rotate the clamp or move it along it's axis by .010". So one clamp per brake lever is an estimated 2,800 lbs of compression force they can withstand before twisting. In other words, I'm thinking this is more than enough for the force that these brakes see at the pivot junction.

Do you have any concerns about high stresses in the seat stay tubing at the section where the collars are attached? You might experience some local buckling effects in the area where the clamping forces are concentrated. Probably won't be an issue on a heavy cruiser bike with thick ductile steel tubing but it might cause problems with something lighter.
Ask me how I know :roll:

I completely agree. I would only use this design on thick wall steel frame tubing. My 63 Schwinn frame has a typical wall thickness of .080". Also, the shaft collar I.D. has to match the tubing diameter to equally distribute the clamp force.

 

[Rev.LowBuck]

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!
Where did you get the split collars? Is this a hardware store item?

 

[Dowie Soetenga]

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!
Where did you get the split collars? Is this a hardware store item?

You're welcome. Some hardware stores carry these split shaft collars. You can get them though McMaster Carr as well.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-collars/=9oudqp

 

[outskirtscustoms]

What would you charge to make a set of these for a fellow RRB member? I might want a set for my Hawthorne project as it has nowhere to mount any brakes unless it's a coaster brake. But I want to use my 3 speed Shimano freewheeling hub.

 

[Sinner4]

Price??? get the Titanium ones for $140 each... WOW, the Steel ones are $5.13 each, not bad.

 

[Rev.LowBuck]

How 'bout a couple pics of the bracket without the brake mounted on it so we can see how you did the roll pin for the sake of 'clocking' the brake?

 

[Sinner4]

How 'bout a couple pics of the bracket without the brake mounted on it so we can see how you did the roll pin for the sake of 'clocking' the brake?

^^^ Ya what he said ^^^^

 

[Beau]

When linear pull brakes first hit the market there was a problem with them ruining frames because they had enough power to flex the frame a LOT.

I'm interested to see what the frame does when you squeeze the brake hard. Even modern frames (steel and aluminum) flex a significant amount. I would at least add a brake bridge to help add stiffness and take some of the pain away from the frame.

Very cool work though!

 

[Beau]

Also, a lot of the cheapo Wal-Mart bikes have front suspension forks that are steel. You can cut the brace and brake mounts all off in one piece and weld them on to to frames. They are stiff and will support the added stress from linear brakes.

 

[vibr8shun]

Brake bridge! Great idea Beau :mrgreen: definite must for older frames using V brakes.

 

[Dowie Soetenga]

How 'bout a couple pics of the bracket without the brake mounted on it so we can see how you did the roll pin for the sake of 'clocking' the brake?

^^^ Ya what he said ^^^^

All good points. The frame doesn't really flex much when braking the V brake. Maybe because it's an old steel Schwinn frame. Anyhow, I'll take some good pictures of the mount all by itself. I'm taking everything apart this week to paint the raw metal brackets. Check back later.

 

[Dowie Soetenga]

How 'bout a couple pics of the bracket without the brake mounted on it so we can see how you did the roll pin for the sake of 'clocking' the brake?

This is what the bracket assembly looks like. There would be a right and left version. The roll pin is located on the inward side of the nut. The nut must be notched to accomodate the roll pin.

 

[Rev.LowBuck]

ah yes, thanks again

 

[Petrohead]

Slick fabrication.

 

[Sinner4]

Here is the one I did, First attempt, the only problem getting the spacing correct, thats why I went with the bridge off a cheap front shock.

Second and final ...

 

[spistols]

Here is what I bought for a 26" BMX build I am doing now. These are adjustable, so you can run any type of wheel on any frame. I looked at the old school Moots mountain bike ones, and just liked the cleaner look of these. I got my set through these guys:

Evolution Bike Co

4500 South Main Street
Acworth, GA 30101-5400
(770) 966-8335

They cost me $50 picked up.

I am in no way affiliated with these guys, but just wanted to pass this along, as I know mounts like these are REAL hard to find. It makes for a special touch on that special build!

 

[c.p.odom]

I have a set of the Schwinn bolt-on cantilevers somewhere in the garage. They were available in three different clamp shapes for all the types of Schwinn forks. The ones made for the round blade springer forks had a pointed set screw to bite into the fork blade and prevent rotation. These were made in England (no idea by who) and were stamped with the fake Schwinn script (Schninn instead of Schwinn).

 

[wheelymarko]

This is so useful bump

 

[yearz]

realy cool :shock:

 

[outskirtscustoms]

So are you making and selling these? If so how much? I have several Schwinns that could put this to use.