I just finished this so now I can fiddle with my build off bikes some more.
Murdoch
- Thread starter Pondo
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I tried out the springer from the pink bike. It raised the head tube around 2 1/2" and the bottom bracket almost 1 1/2". I think it looks ok too so I'm probably going to go this way. It's a copy cat springer so I don't know how well it will hold up off road but it will look the part with a repaint and should be more or less klunkery.
I wanted to repair the damage on the chainstays where the cranks had rubbed against them. The left side was particularly deep.
I took up welding to support my vintage vehicle addiction and I do ok but I'm no pro.
The tubing was pretty thin in the damaged areas and blew through right away. No worries. I just built it back up from the edges using compressed air to keep things cool. Then I ground it with the flap wheel and finished dressing it with a file and it actually came out pretty good!
Tomorrow I'll spread the rear triangle to fit a modern hub and figure out what's next.
I took up welding to support my vintage vehicle addiction and I do ok but I'm no pro.
The tubing was pretty thin in the damaged areas and blew through right away. No worries. I just built it back up from the edges using compressed air to keep things cool. Then I ground it with the flap wheel and finished dressing it with a file and it actually came out pretty good!
Tomorrow I'll spread the rear triangle to fit a modern hub and figure out what's next.
That springer fork actually fits it quite well. And a full paint will pull it in even better. You definitely have your own klunker look going here with the high rise bars and Brooks saddle.
Your tandem turned out well!
Your tandem turned out well!
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Very nice tribute. I like it a lot. Who else but RRBers do important builds like this. I think you will be OK pedal strike wise. I’ve used shorter crank arms from a 20 inch bike on a CWC klunker I once had. It feels weird and choppy but I rode this bike for years. You could do that in a pinch but you will probably be OK without resorting to shorter cranks. Anyway it’s an option. A lot of CWC frames are not good as single speed klunkers because the curved chain stays prevent almost no gearing modifications as the chain rubs on the frame. If you use a derailleur then the curved stays are not a problem. Some CWC frames apparently have a higher BB than mine did. I wonder where that frame is now. I probably gave it away.
Thanks OJ! I want this bike to look like a survivor so I'm thinking about how to paint the fork to make it look '50s or '60s. It doesn't need to match the frame, in fact I don't think it should. The frame is original paint I think, or at least a very old repaint that was done well at the time. I need to figure out a treatment for the repaired areas on the frame too. I think spray paint will show and not match so maybe I'll rust it or just leave it bare metal.That springer fork actually fits it quite well. And a full paint will pull it in even better. You definitely have your own klunker look going here with the high rise bars and Brooks saddle.
Your tandem turned out well!
The tandem turned out to be a bigger project than expected, as usual. Originally I was just going to get it going again but I didn't like the paint so.... snowball. I learned that if you order a derailleur cable for a tandem late at night you'll get a tandem brake cable.
It did turn out nice though and the owner is thrilled! 
Thanks buddy! I've yet to see a CB style klunker in person. Even at the mountain bike museum in Marin. I just think they are so cool and I can't help but wonder what it would be like to ride one. I'll use the shorter crank arms if needed. The bottom bracket is at a better height now so I think it will be ok, especially if I keep my inner pedal high in fast corners. I had no idea about the clearance issue with the chain stays, that's interesting. I would have hit that issue if I had gone coaster brake with this one.
I'm going to have to take this bike with me next time I road trip through Colorado so I can klunk around Crested Butte. I think the Grubstake might still be there. Then there's Pearl Pass. Hmm.
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You will be fine for clearance with cranks up to 7" and some CWC built bikes even had cranks 7.5" long. I have used a 40t front sprocket on my 39 CWC and a 44t on my 98 LL which both have curved stays and the chain didn't rub on the stays.
Cool tribute idea. But what I really want to know is how in the world did you lose these two big honkin allen wrenches!!!!???????
Cool, thanks man! That gives me a little peace of mind.
Good question! I don't think there was ever anything in there. We do use allens that size at work for some things but I don't have anything that size. Can you imagine the size of that seat post clamp?
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Those are too tall gears for me to push. I finally settled on 34 x 22 and it just rubbed a little. I got massive over the bar pedal strikes before I went to shorter cranks. I got pedal strikes whenever I rode it before I went short. I’ve not had this problem with my DX, Shelby or Colson Klunkers. I’ve heard this before from others that had no problem with CWC klunkers but both my frames are the same. Are you using a rear derailleur? No problem with chainstay clearance with a derailleur. I run mostly single speed klunkers. If your running single then you CWC must be different than mine. Both mine were skip tooth Wards bikes from around 1950. I had a Columbia klunker which I used to take XC and that was a good one. I gave it away as I had too many bicycles.
I got started repainting the springer today. I'm going to leave the front tubes white, I think. The rear I painted with several colors. I'm going to sand them down to try for a patina effect and see how it turns out.
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There are youtube videos of a bike shop in Crested Bute that is building a reproduction crested bute bicycle for one of the original pearl pass rides from the 1970s. I couldn’t link it to here. Look up Building a klunker for petal pass.
This is the one I have seen. Same one? I haven't watched it in a while. I think it's a coaster brake bike. Cool stuff.
I think you have one of the frames that wasn't made to use a collar to tighten the seat post. The seat post tightened up like a handlebar post, with a bolt and wedge. A collar won't work, as it needs a slot in the frame that can be squeezed together. You may have to modify your seat post with a long bolt and wedge.
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No derailleurs. Both of the bikes below have Nexus 7 hubs and have bigger front sprockets than you typically run.
When I first got the 39 Supreme below I used a 42t front, 18t rear and a regular chain as shown below. It now runs a 24t skip tooth up front and 22t rear.
The 98 LL below has a 44t on the front and a 21t on the rear.
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That is a different frame than mine. Mine have different top tubes. My down tubes are not straight. My frame style is pretty common here as there were wards stores and no bike shops. Five miles away there is one just like mine moldering as yard art. I’m always disappointed when I look at old bikes as they are almost always frames like mine and I pass. Perhaps it’s not a CWC after all? What else has curved stays? It now has a different chain guard and the Columbia unit is on a Columbia. I couldn’t get the gearing right for our hills. As you can see the chain hits the stays. The Klunker I gave to the tail draggers club in Chicago wasn’t a straight bar. There must have been several frame types.
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That's a CWC, early 50's probably. The serial number will get the exact year for you.
Here's a 53 I had:
Here's a 53 I had:
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Definitely a CWC frame with possibly a Westfield fork. I can’t tell for sure but it may even be prewar as the middle tube has the brazed look joins.
