My Italian Stallion

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I posted this on the road bikes thread, just reposting it in the gallery.

I took the Ferrari out of cold storage today. It's time to get back in shape and there isn't a better way than riding this bike up hills. There is an abundance of steeps here in Albuquerque. This is a bike I built up in 04 with the money I got from a divorce. Money well spent. :mrgreen: I'd take the Colnago over her any day. Ha Ha.

The bike in an E1 semi-sloping built in the Ferrari factory using their carbon technology. Most all major high end brands are now built in Taiwan. I doubt I will ever sell this bike seeing as how it was one of the last seasons they built frames in their own factory.

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Wow, that's stunning. Really beautiful.

I'm very reluctant to be negative about such a great bike but I wonder if you are aware that there are issues with that style of stem, and that stem in particular, on carbon steerers. My FSA 120 stem crushed the carbon steerer of my Rockshox SID Black box. It's to do with the cut out of material between the two steerer clamp bolts which creates a sharp step. I notice that you have a good stack of spacers above the stem which mitigates the problem somewhat. I'm pretty sure that Trek and FSA are still in a legal battle over liabilities arising from steerer failures.
 
Thanks MadMick for that info. I will have to look into that. Like I said built this up after ordering the frame in 04. I rode it hard for about a year lost about fifty lbs and the next year after that raced it about 10 or so times. I know I change my position a dozen times has my body change during that time. I never found any damage on the steer tube. Was this stem a issue with all carbon steerers?
How long ago did this first come about? I will take a look at it now before I start riding it again. I know that I never cranked down on it real hard being told back then that you have to be careful with all carbon.
 
Just took the stem off and inspected it. There is no damage. I am curious, did you use the same style plug nut in your carbon steer tube? I think chances of crushing are minimalized quite bit if you use the right kind of steer tube nut.

Here's a pic of it

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I found this discussion with a search of 'Trek FSA carbon steerer'. http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index ... 48920.html

Particularly this post which appears to be lifted directly from TREK's own guidelines. My highlighting.

UPDATED: Service Information - Stems on Carbon Steerers
05/24/2010
Updated installation procedures for stems on carbon steerers
Modern bicycles use high-tech materials and designs that rely on correct maintenance, precision workmanship, and compatibility of the parts. Mechanics must continue to learn the new procedures and requirements of these new bicycles. Incorrect mechanical work on a bicycle could lead to damage or breakage of a part, which could lead to a crash.
This bulletin includes information from an August 2009 Bontrager service bulletin, the Trek and Fisher bicycle owner’s manuals, 2010 Madone and Cronus assembly manuals, and new information.
Below the stem on all steerers
Always place at least one 5mm spacer below the stem. This spacer is in addition to the bearing cover, which must be at least 5mm. If the stem rests against the bearing cover, a point load is created on the steerer that could eventually cause the steerer to break.
Above the stem on carbon fiber steerers
With a carbon steerer, always place at least one 5mm spacer above the stem. A stem placed right at the top of the steerer can put too much force on the unsupported cut edge of the steerer, possibly crushing the steerer.
Check headset bearing preload
The bicycle owner’s manual tells a rider to check the bearing adjustment of the headset each month. With a carbon steerer, a rider should check more frequently. In addition to the checks in the owner’s manual, we recommend an additional quick check: the rider should check to make sure that the spacer(s) below the stem cannot be rotated with the fingers.
Tightening clamp bolts
When tightening clamp bolts on a carbon steerer or other carbon part, make sure to locate proper torque on the part or in the part’s manual and set the torque wrench correctly. Gradually tighten each steerer clamp bolt, alternating back and forth in small increments, until both bolts are at the correct torque. Use a similar method wherever there are multiple clamp bolts. Do not tighten one all the way before tightening the other, and do not leave the bolts with unequal torque.
Compatibility with all steerers
Make sure the stem clamp is designed correctly and is free of burrs. Correct design requires that the clamp is circumferential (closes in a circle); never use a wedge-type clamp. Also make sure the clamp bolts are tangential to the steerer. Angled clamp bolts can cause a point load along the clamp.
Clamp edges should be smooth and slightly rounded. If a stem has a sharp or burred edge, sliding it onto the steerer could scratch or cut the carbon fibers, which can weaken the steerer..
Compatibility with carbon steerers
With a carbon steerer, do not use a star-fangled nut; use only the compression nut assembly supplied with the fork. A star-fangled nut can scratch or cut carbon fibers, which can weaken the steerer.
With a carbon steerer, never use a stem with cutaways or holes in the back of the steerer clamp because this type of clamp can cause uneven pressure on the steerer. Uneven pressure, also called a point load, can damage the steerer. For contrast, the stem in Figure 5 (see PDF) does not have a cutaway.
With a carbon steerer, never use a stem with clamp bolts that require more than 55 lb•in (6 Nm) torque. Excessive torque can crush a carbon steerer.
Use a stem with a carbon-friendly design. The steerer clamp should have the maximum possible surface area and apply even pressure (it should not cause a point load). One cause of point loading is a cutaway in the stem, either in the back as mentioned above, or in a misplaced “lightening hole”. If the lightening hole is too close to the top or bottom of the stem, the narrow, remaining clamp area can cause a point load. To distribute the pressure evenly, the lightening hole should be at least 10mm from the top or the bottom of the stem. If a misplaced lightening hole is combined with incorrect spacers, the stem can crush the steerer. FSA stems are NOT approved for use with Trek carbon-steerer forks.
 
WOW. Great info. I think I may have done all the right things but that stem does worry me. I may replace it.

Thanks
 
what were the forks that had the damage. I worked for performance bike for almost 3 yrs. left them a yr ago to retire. have installed alot of FSA on bikes. never a problem. just wondering what forks they were on that had the damage.

Outlaw 8)
 
OUTLAW said:
what were the forks that had the damage. I worked for performance bike for almost 3 yrs. left them a yr ago to retire. have installed alot of FSA on bikes. never a problem. just wondering what forks they were on that had the damage.

Outlaw 8)
I guess it was mostly with the trek carbon streerers but MadMick left a link with others too. I think it could be a lot of factors that cause this problem. Setup, Mechanics knowledge of carbon materials, and Maintenance among others. I don't think all carbon is equal either.
 
I'm an experienced, former pro mechanic with some twenty+ years under my belt. I consider myself quite competent, I definitely don't have a history of mashing things. Even so, I still managed to crush the steerer on my Rockshox SID Black Box fork with my FSA 120 stem. A mountain bike fork, so you'd imagine it would be a few percent stronger than a road steerer.

It's the cut-out in the back of the FSA 120 stem which appears to be the problem, causing a high pressure point which crushes the carbon tube locally.

I know all carbon steeerers are not made equal, but if a company as experienced and knowledgeable in the field of carbon construction as TREK actually forbids the use of a certain product on their bikes I sit up and take notice.
 
Mmmm...pure sex.
Carbon fiber, Italian Ferrari-made roadie...oh yeahhh.
Very nice - thanks for sharing this one!

(Just curious, do you ever rub the back of the front tire with your toes?
That straight fork and little/no trail looks like it could cause some close-quarters!)
 

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