Oval top of seatpost question

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Apr 13, 2024
Messages
56
Reaction score
94
Location
Benton, Arkansas, USA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I am working on an old Murray Westport, maybe 1980s. The seatpost was jammed, but I eventually got it out. The top of the tube is slightly oval shaped, and I was wondering if that is a design feature, or if someone clamped it in a vise and squeezed it. Thanks for any help, folks. If it's supposed to be round, can I just cut off the bent part and invert it?
 

Attachments

  • 20240727_101613.jpg
    20240727_101613.jpg
    4 MB
  • 20240727_101549.jpg
    20240727_101549.jpg
    1.3 MB
  • 20240727_101539.jpg
    20240727_101539.jpg
    1.5 MB
The post should definitely be round. Probably got mashed in a vise like you said. You could cut off the bent portion, but you will need 7/8" section at the top of the post for the seat to clamp to. Not sure what the Westport used for a seat post diameter. If it is 7/8", you can just cut off the offending portion and reuse it, as long as you can get enough insertion length into the seat tube.
 
The post should definitely be round. Probably got mashed in a vise like you said. You could cut off the bent portion, but you will need 7/8" section at the top of the post for the seat to clamp to. Not sure what the Westport used for a seat post diameter. If it is 7/8", you can just cut off the offending portion and reuse it, as long as you can get enough insertion length into the seat tube.
Thanks for all the info, Mr. Hammer. The OD of the round part is about .880 inch. I guess that's about 7/8ths. I'll have about 5 inches of stem down into the tube after I cut it off.
 
O my my... Etc.
Right you are, thrifty shopper. 7/8" = 0.875" , which is very... Nay, VERY close to said measurement. That miniscule bit of difference is even sufficiently close to fool most folks into proclaiming sameness. Those of us who heavily employ precision daily could & might gather to watch the results. Please remember to lightly grease that thing.
 
That happens when the seat post clamp isn't fully seated on the post and the bolt is over torqued.

Relatively soft steel. Easy enough to hammer it back in to shape.

Most straight steel seat posts are "gas pipe" construction and are not very round to start with. If you put your calipers on them and rotate the seat post the needle/numbers will vary by up to a millimeter.

Lathe turned aluminum posts are usually pretty accurate.
 
O my my... Etc.
Right you are, thrifty shopper. 7/8" = 0.875" , which is very... Nay, VERY close to said measurement. That miniscule bit of difference is even sufficiently close to fool most folks into proclaiming sameness. Those of us who heavily employ precision daily could & might gather to watch the results. Please remember to lightly grease that thing.
Thanks, Commander. I think I can make it work now. Is 5" enough to have down the seat tube part?
Jason

That happens when the seat post clamp isn't fully seated on the post and the bolt is over torqued.

Relatively soft steel. Easy enough to hammer it back in to shape.

Most straight steel seat posts are "gas pipe" construction and are not very round to start with. If you put your calipers on them and rotate the seat post the needle/numbers will vary by up to a millimeter.

Lathe turned aluminum posts are usually pretty accurate.
Thanks, Rick. I have actually thought about getting a local machine shop to turn me one in aluminum...but with all these suggestions...especially yours...I'm going to just cut the post where it is more round, then maybe pound it some if it won't fit my seat. Thanks.
Jason
 

Latest posts

Back
Top