PAINT PROBLEMS! Any help here?

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It seems like every time I go to repaint something or touch up something, and I'm using spray cans, I can't achieve a hard, durable finish. I used to, but the new paint doesn't hold up. Suggestions?

No matter what primer I use, no matter how much I clean or prep the surface, and it doesn't matter if I clear coat or not, the crap chips, scratches, and peels off. Regardless of brand. I just repainted some fuel lines, and the moment I snapped them in place, the paint chipped off in flakes, all over my face. If I paint models or die-cast, one drop on the floor and the paint is chipped or scratched. Yet, made in China Hot Wheels from Wal-Mart have a more durable finish! When I touch up bikes, same thing.

I'm frustrated, and wondering if anyone else is having this problem and how it's fixed. I have a bike frame and fork to paint, and I'm hoping I can achieve a good finish with spray cans again.
 
I was told by the owner of an automotive paint supply store that all aerosol paints are pretty much crap. And I was buying a can of his best and most expensive aerosol paint when he told me that! Unless it is a two part paint with hardener, I don't think you can expect it to perform like professional grade paint.

I may be wrong, and I hope that someone will prove me wrong!
 
Some people have been able to pull it off, and I used to be able to. Not anymore though. EPA regulations have changed our paint so much that it's crap altogether. I don't know how to use the stuff most of the time now.

I don't have a place for an airbrush, so spray cans have to do.
 
I can't remember what it's called, but I recently watched a YouTube video with Kevin Tetz. He was using a two part rattle can. I think Eastwood sells it.

Might check that out.
 
Yeah I think all regular style can paint sucks. Some is betsdr than others but nothing is great. As mentioned you can get 2 part urethane rattle can has an activator built in that you have to lush to open jg and mix it. I have a can that I have been waiting to use. The draw back is you have to use it within 24 hours or something like that. Kind of expensive too.
 
Spray can paint is non-catalyzed paint and it just plain sucks. There's no good answer here. It's soft.
I always cringe when I see people spray cars with rattle can primer. I've got a buddy who has his '66 Chevelle all apart and wants help painting it, but he rattle can primered the entire thing. I told him he's got to get ALL of that off, the paint won't be any good on top of that. I even cringe when I read about guys using spray cans to paint their bikes, but that's easier to fix.
A spray gun doesn't cost much, and there's really no reason you couldn't use one if you can use a spray can. You do need a moisture trap in the air line, and a source of compressed air, but you can buy a good enough compressor to spray bikes for about $100, sometimes slightly less. That and real paint is the only way you'll get a good job.
The other option is take it to a powder coater. You'll really get a durable finish, but it'll cost $100 - $200+ depending on who does what in your area.

However... you're going to freak when you see what real auto paint costs these days!!! Fortunately bikes don't need much!
 
I think part of the problem with spray cans is "modern" paint formulations don't have the same chemicals they used BITD. :p
I found a couple cans of Duplicolor touch up spray cans from my moms long gone 1973 Pontiac Catalina. This stuff must of been from the early 80's - so at least 30 years old. :D
OMG did that stuff stink! I painted my "Gasser" build off bike with it last summer - outside - maybe 300 ft from my house, went inside came out after lunch and I could smell it from my front door! :eek:
 
Well yeah, but the new stuff is s good paint AND a delicious desert topping! It's harmless, and tastes great on your favorite ice cream.And just look at that shine!

Oh... sorry... I was just breathing some of Horsefarmer's paint fumes...
 
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no free rides,back when i was racin there was a sayin[the faster u want to go the more your gonna spend]paint work is the same,the better the job the higher the cost,poweder coat is the most chip resistent,if your onna tight budget,laqure dries faster and harder that enamel,so use krylon or duplicolor
 
Ya and Lacquer requires "hotter" chemicals for solvents. And there's the rub, It's hazardous! :eek:
My H.S. chemistry prof used to say, "If it smells good, it's bad for you.":(
 
Most automotive paint stores should be able to mix you some auto paint and put it in a spray can.
I recently did this for the first time at a local O'Reilly Auto Parts that sells automotive paints. It was about $25 for one can. I did it to get the color match which turned out pretty good. Still the paint did not have a hardener and doesn't set up as hard a two part paint with a catalyst.

I only used it on the tank...
Finished 3.jpg
 
I recently did this for the first time at a local O'Reilly Auto Parts that sells automotive paints. It was about $25 for one can. I did it to get the color match which turned out pretty good. Still the paint did not have a hardener and doesn't perform like a two part paint with a catalyst.

I only used it on the tank...
View attachment 15936
Did they mix the paint in house? If they made it and put it in a can it would have to be two part. If it was just straight toners and binder it would take months or years to dry out.

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Even then its still just base coat. If you dont put a good clear over the top its going to scape off. Even a car without clear the paint is going to flake without much effort

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The only base that would work on its own is singlestage paint. Such as that used on farm equipment. Its in simple terms base and clear all in one.

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