Pope Roger bike build

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Thanks guys!

Here a little update on the crossframe bike:

I tacked the CroMoly together and am working on the chainstay right now.
Bought a "Salt Rookie" 175mm crankset which is servicable with normaal tools :thumbsup:

The tacking is a bit tacky :crazy: I am not a professional welder. I will let the finishing welds be done by a professional welder.
The measurements and alignment is very good!!




Not perfect... but it stays there!




29+ or 29x3.0 tires (Probably Surly Knards) with 68mm bottom bracket is a bit of a challenge to fit. So I made a quick 'n dirty 3D model with 550mm chainstays (this is a large bike!) and 80mm's wide tires.



The green plate is a 5 or 6mm steel plate that will be connected to 20mm CroMoly tubes.
Again, a quick and dirty test model, rounds and plate bending to be added.

So 2x 20mm tubes between the bottom bracket shell and this plate.
And 20mm chainstay tubes to the dropout.

Dropout wise I am thinking about inspiration from a real nice one that I saw: Speedholes :crazy2:
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Hi RRB forum,

I have been very busy for some time now, so no updates or posts on the forum.
The hub design is almost finished and I will leave it to rest for now.

I am working on the crossframe bike rear bridge/fork at this point, I will post some pictures soon.

The Salt crankset I bought for the bike.... I used it to rebuild my Felt Sector 2004 BMX bike:

I started racing BMX again.

And I am about to order some stuff for the crossframe bike:
  • 29 inch Dartmoor Cruiser rims. They are tough and 40mm's wide.
  • Novatec front hub 15x110 boost or a Hope Pro4 purple hub with six bolt disc brake.
  • Sturmey Archer S2C kickshift hub with coasterbrake in black. I like this hub so much.

Do not know which tires I'll use yet. 29x3.0 of 29x2.6. Something that fits tarmac aswel as sand.

Thanks for reading and happy holidays!
Hey Bart welcome back, and a belated prettige sinterklass! Hope there was no coal in your klompen, I can heat the house for free this month!
Thanks Matti! Appreciate it, Canada should be quite cold now is it not? Our winters do not have snow anymore, just rain.

We did not really celebrate "Sinterklaas" because its the same day of my daughter's birthday :bandit:
For the people who do not know Sinterklaas: It is a similar story as Santa Clause, only this guy comes from Spain with his steam boat to deliver presents and candy to kids through chimneys with his friends called "Zwarte Pieten" or black Petes. Bad kids get hit with a thing called a "Roe".
And the candy in this period is amazing, I advise to google it: Pepernoten, Strooigoed, Marsepein.

Alright back to bicycles!
Today I am bending a 5mm sheet metal piece for the rear fork.

Dropout wise I am not sure if I will choose to keep the option open for a belt drive just yet.

I think my "Surly" front fork is from a Surly Krampus, not a ECR. Because it has a 15x110mm through axle. What do you guys think?

Colour wise (I'm planning ahead :grin: ) I think I will choose "RAL 4007" dark Purple with a matte black front fork.

So I'm thinking to go with this hub: Six bolt system, I dislike the centerlock!

And another picture of my 2004 Felt Sector Pro Xxl and Redline freestyle bmx bike.
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Mmmm pepernoten. Also oliballen. Did I spell it right? Yeah it's pretty cool here right now, -15°c. But it's still only fall, this weekend it will be up around 5°. By January, we will be below-30. Sas that it doesn't freeze in the Netherlands anymore, my Pake used to tell tales of skating from town to town on the canals. Netherlands used to boast the longest skating rink in the world, now it's in Ottawa, 100km from my home
Also test fitted it on my klunker bike because it has 3.0 tires and the one-piece crankset I would like to use on this bike:


That is seriously wide!

Also reflecting on this build....
29x3.0 wheels and tires......
Hope pro 4 front hub......
Probably a Sturmey Archer S2C rear hub.....
CroMo very large frame.....
Thinking about "SKS Bluemels 75u" fenders.
No clue about front and rear rack assembly yet.

This is going to be a serious freak bike :21:
Hi guys,
Another update:

Dropouts are in. Remember what my inspiration was? I kinda made something like that.
The dropouts are horizontal and made from lasercut S355 steel, 6mm thick. BEEFY!
It cost me (including shipping) 45 euros. Not bad, I thought.

All the holes in it give me plenty of options for a bicycle trailer, fenders, racks etcetera.
The lower (four) holes are eventually hidden, because the (rear fork) tube is in front of it.



Above: testfit into the cheap JIG.


Above: With the 15mm CroMo tubes laid on top.

I also checked the geometry again while setting up the Frame JIG. It has a "Surly Krampus" like geometry with a slightly higher bottom bracket and the bike is quite a bit longer.

For the weight weenies: It is not my goal to build a lightweight bicycle, just a cheap, tough frame which I like. If interested, I can share the exact geometry :crazy2:

Thank for having a look again!
Little update!

Working on the rear lower fork / bridge:
The tubes (22x1,5mm CrMo) are cut with an 60 degree angle and a inside radius of 56,5 (BB shell).
I laid down the complete part set to write down ideas for a "rear fork jig".

Alignment is important, but the dropout alignment, height wise in relation to the other side of the dropout is extra important with these horizontals!

Pictures below. The ugly piece of wood with the threaded shaft and the plate on the other end is a cheap (free) way to check the 29+ wheel diameter and width. Because my wheels are not in yet and 29x3.0 tires are not cheap.
I will leave some space, but 29+ or 29x3.0 wheels have a round 770mm to 800mm diameter.

Enjoy and thanks for watching!








Last picture: some alignment notes in relation to the bigger frame jig.
I'll keep throwing updates here:

Rear fork tacking JIG is ready. I had everything lying about, so it did not cost me anything except some time.
For the people wandering: I know that it is more (sideways) stable if I would position the tubes in a sloping matter:
From the rear shaft (135mm width) to the bottom bracket (68mm width).
But this more than stable enough for the occasion. I will not use this bike for bikeparks and downhill racing ;)




Last picture: Held it against the frame to get an idea. Absolutely love it!

I hope that there is a way to tack it, because the shop is closed due to the covid lockdown.

One thought left to share:
I was thinking, the headtube is positioned quite high. It leaves not much meat for a nice weld on the bottom. About 2-3mm. Rookie mistake I guess.... Shall I:
  1. Just weld it and grind the rest off.
  2. Put a lug around it.
  3. Grind the tacks of and re-position it.
I'm thinking to go with the first option!
Rear fork tacking jig is done! Dropout fits perfectly. Done without power tools.
It took some time to align everything (to get a straight cut).



The vice is hardened steel, so I used it to cut the tube. There is a block underneath so the height is right.
Pretty simple right?

Now that I am checking my former calculations again and found more info on bicycle tubing:

I think these tubes:
  • 30x1,5mm straight gauge 25CrMo4 top tube.
  • 35x1,5mm straight gauge 25CrMo4 down tube and seat tube.
  • 20x1,5mm straight gauge 25CrMo4 chainstay tubes.
  • 15x1,5mm straight gauge 25CrMo4 seat stays.
Are quite thick for a bicycle :crazy:

What is a normal "butted" wall thickness for a mountainbike? Any frame builders on this forum?

Not that I am changing this project, but next time I would see if "Reynolds" or "Columbus" tubing could be a option.

I am making preparations for MIG welding this frame. A frame building company I know did extensive frame testing with these 1,5mm tubes and found that MIG welding came out best.

  1. 29+ Wheels are laced!​
15x110 through axle, six bolt disc hub.
Sturmey Archer S2C kickshift hub.
13 gauge thick spokes.
Silver nipples.
Dartmoor Cruiser 29+ rims.




The tires are ordered: 29x2.6" Schwalbe Johnny Watts. These are about 1/3 the price than your average 29x3.0 tires, and still fat and functional.
The description fits the bike: 29+ SUV-tires.

One piece crank with bearings is here too! I instantly fitted my 80's "Asco Power Disc". It looks great!
I also will fabricate some extra dustcaps for the one piece bottom bracket.


The frame is being welded for the most part right now.

Next stuff to think about:
Belt Drive (Gates CDX) or a KMC X1 chain? The frame is beltcompatible.
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The 29x2.6 "Schwalbe Johnny Watts" tires are mounted. Man these tires are tight (no literally!) I pinched a hole in one inner tube while not paying attention and mounting these. Luckily I ordered three inner tubes! :thumbsup:

The most part of the frame is welded!
The seat stays are not welded to the frame yet, because I need to press some eyelets in them. So I have the option to mount a belt drive.

Man, this is a big bike! I am very excited! In this future 29x3.0 or fatter will fit too. Many options...

note: the geometry is not completely represented in the following pictures, because the headset and the bearings are not mounted. This is just a quick n' dirty mockup.









Update: last welding session coming up!

I reinforced (stiffened) the rear fork plate:
All done with a hacksaw, a file and patience (not the card game).

Then I drilled some holes for options... If I ever have a hub with more gears that needs a cable...
I pressed some pressnuts in it. The pressnuts are glued in with a black strong sealant which you can paint.


M4 (4mm) pressnuts.

Then I milled some steel eyelets for the "optional" belt drive. To mount the seat stays to the dropouts:

Fender fitting:

Heavy duty rear rack mockup:

Seatpost clamp: I drilled a hole first, then cut straight down:

Chainguard mounting posts:
I milled some steel pins with M4 thread in them. Then I tapped thread into the frame for a nice and sturdy fit with grub screws. This will be welded aswell:

Complete frame with the seatstays. Almost done for the final welding session:

The only parts left to come in from a laser cutting service are:
  • Seat stay plate, where the fender and rear rack is attached.
  • Bent plate for a kickstand.
  • Some small parts

After this we can, measure, weld, check again and pick a colour for powdercoating!
Right now I am thinking:
  • RAL 1037 Sun Yellow
  • RAL 4007 Purperviolet
  • Purple, maybe a little bit darker than the following picture:

What are your thoughts?
Thanks for watching!

Lasercut and bend parts are in!


Plate to hold the rear rack 'front bracket'. This part has got to be stiff and tough so the plate is bend and has a extra wall (squeezed in the frame in the picture above).

Clamped on there to see how it looks.

Crossframe returning details, love it!

Plate to hold the rear fender, most likely with a bush, but thats okay.

Plate/bracket for the coasterbrake arm.

What are your thoughts?

Next up: Welding, deburring/rounding and she is ready for a powercoat!
Welding was moved due to other projects needed finishing.

Coming monday I'll take her to the welder for a last welding session. Same welder as before. The guy welds custom rollcages and buggy frames, so a bicycle is something else I guess :rockout:

I finished the last measurements and checks.



Toying with the seatstays plate for position. The rack will be attached there and I need options for bigger tires if needed.



Seatstay plate details. I wanted 2mm steel, but stiff enough to hold the heavy duty rear rack (with its load), so placed a gusset there.

This is my idea for a colour/powdercoat:

RAL 4007 bicycle link

What are your thoughts on the colour?