Project Chris

[Jake Sensi]

Beautiful bike!! I'm digging it.

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[The Renaissance Man]

The black gel coat is in and waiting for some fiberglass! The extension bolted to the mold will add 1" to each side making the tank 2" wider when it's done. This will increase the fuel capacity and give me some extra room to fit it over the frame.

 

[2dawgs]

Curious about the amount fuel capacity? The rule of thumb is approximately 1 ounce of fuel equals 10 miles.

Time in the saddle on a 2 stroke is about 25 miles, before the comfort dissipates.

 

[Jake Sensi]

Curious about the amount fuel capacity? The rule of thumb is approximately 1 ounce of fuel equals 10 miles.

Time in the saddle on a 2 stroke is about 25 miles, before the comfort dissipates.

HEY WATCH IT MISTER...KIDS COULD BE READING THIS...

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[2dawgs]

HEY WATCH IT MISTER...KIDS COULD BE READING THIS...

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Jake, you are a bad man. Ha, ha.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Curious about the amount fuel capacity? The rule of thumb is approximately 1 ounce of fuel equals 10 miles.

Time in the saddle on a 2 stroke is about 25 miles, before the comfort dissipates.

Given those perameters I probably could've kept the tank at the normal size.

I'm too deep now to turn back, here's the first layer of glass...

 

[Fv2]

Widening the tank will give plenty of room for a gas cap.
The stock tank could work, but the clearances would be tight.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

The tank is free from its bonds!

First the tank halves where removed from the original molds.

Then the one inch extensions to the molds where taken apart and separated from the tank halves. These had to be made in pieces otherwise they would be impossible to separate from the tank after the glass cured without having to cut something.

The next step will be to clean up the edges and start fitting them to the frame.

 

[OddJob]

Super tanked?

 

[c1run1]

Old school school is in cession .. pay attention here peps you may learn something ! craftsman at work .

 

[kingfish254]

I'm very curious on how you add the gas tank to the TRM tank. Is it going to be incorporated as part of the tank pieces or will it be a separate inserted piece within the TRM tank?

 

[The Renaissance Man]

@kingfish254 , the tank itself will be sealed together and a filler neck and bung will be added making it an actual fuel tank on it's own.
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The halves lined up nicely after a session with a cut-off wheel and some sanding! For the first time I did all of the cutting for the frame openings with a jig saw followed by sanding and found that in many ways, it works easier than the drilling and hole saw method that I have done it the past.

Notice the step down in the added area from the original profile. This will provide space for bonding the halves with fiberglass while staying below the finished surface.

This is still in the easy stage, making it functional will require a lot more careful planning and work. The deadline is beginning to look very ominous.

 

[kingfish254]

MO FATTA
MO BETTA
I like the recessed middle sections for some cool TRM trimmings.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

The fiberglass shop is shut down this week, so I focused my attention back to the engine mount.

I like to lay this stuff out on the computer first and then print it on adhesive paper to have a sharp guide for my old eyes to follow while cutting it out.

All of the pieces are made, bolted together and ready to weld to the frame. I doesn't look like it, but this took a lot of careful planning to get the pattern correct so that all of the bends in the bottom plate lined up with both the engine and the frame mounts.

 

[Chad T]

Nice work on the mounts.

Keep an eye on those isolators when you get it running. Not sure how much of a torque load those can handle. All that will be holding the motor is the chemical bond of the threaded parts to the rubber. They won't have much strength when pulled on.

Hate being a safety nazi......... but felt it was worth mentioning. Was hoping somebody else would bring it up actually...

 

[The Renaissance Man]

I'm with you @Chad T ! Thanks for the concern.

This is an experiment and it may or may not work. I'm also concerned that the torque will cause the engine to move too much and create issues with the chain line. I should be able to tell pretty quick how well it will work and can replace the soft mounts with steel spacers if needed.

 

[G-Matt]

Looks good man , but nothing about this build looks quick & easy. You can tell plenty of time & planning has gone into it already.


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[Chad T]

You could also run a bolt through the mount and the plate on the outside mounts as kind of a safety net? Just have a nylock nut or lock nut so it doesn't compress the rubber.

Loving the mad scientist aspect of this build.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

You could also run a bolt through the mount and the plate on the outside mounts as kind of a safety net? Just have a nylock nut or lock nut so it doesn't compress the rubber.

Loving the mad scientist aspect of this build.

That's a really good suggestion, I will definitely explore that idea further . Thanks!

The mounts are tacked in place. I didn't want to commit to fully welding them in until I'm sure that everything will line up as planned. I feel pretty confident that it's right though.

 

[Fv2]

I really like this mount idea Jim, I'll be watching to see how it turns out.
I never liked the factory engine mounts either, and this could work on a drop loop frame.